Her 72 Mach 1

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Took some pics. Looked at that passenger door jamb for 10 years off and on and never noticed the missing seam. My other car, the jamb is part of the 1/4, not separate. Looking in the trunk on the underside of the top skin of rear quarter there is a long faded parts sticker. The seam is missing on passenger side vs drivers side as well. (speaks in Homer Simpson) Dohh!









 
QM does mean quarter molding. Found holes and one intact stud. Daylight can be seen from drivers side view of trunk via a small round hole. For years we had so much stuff between the Mustang and wall of the shop on the drivers side, that we didn't have access to that side.

Brett

 
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Interior stripping is almost complete; drivers side fresh air duct, engine bay wire harness and FDS trap door interior trim panel, drivers door mirror cable is all that is left. I posted in the interior section on a how to remove the trap door trim panel that is at the bottom of the back window. The consensus is the back window has to be removed.

For the exterior, the doors are going to stay. We'll remove the exterior door handles and leave them in place. They are heavy and bulky and just doesn't make sense to haul them to the bodyshop in a pickup bed. Rear quarter extensions will come off, haven't decided on the trunk lid. Front fenders and hood will come off when I have made a spot for them in the shop (still cleaning/reorganizing and trashing stuff).

Next up will be engine/trans and stripping of engine bay of parts, brackets and harness. My wife has done a great job at bagging, tagging, labeling and picture taking of the disassembly. 

Thoughts on leaving the brake booster/master cyl. in place?? It's not like there will be a seat in place for someone to "ride brakes" for movement of the Mach 1. Or should we install the drivers seat?

We have a multi drawer Vidmar cabinet that has been for her Mustang parts storage and it is filling up. I have several solutions in the works for the rest of the parts. With the exception of the fenders. 

I could solve a lot of space issues by doing some assembling of my car (fenders, eng/trans). But the cars have to swap positions to get hers out of the shop (mine is in front of the door) and more parts added to my car may make it too heavy for easy maneuverability. In short; I have a 5/8" redhead insert installed in the floor at the front of my car that I attach a manual comealong with a bolt to pull my car back into the shop after it is rolled out. It works fine at the current weight.

Would it be a "faux pas" to add an image of my car (it ain't a Ford)?

Damn the torpedos, full speed ahead!



 
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Opened a pair of boxes today that had been closed up for a decade. My wife bought some parts years ago, she even forgot about the honeycomb panel that was in one of the boxes. A complete set of buckets with seat tracks. It was like a mini Christmas for her.

She also found a product to remove the spray paint applied by the previous owner on her rear seat 1/4 trim panels. The stuff works and the paint may have preserved the plastic to some degree.

Also received material samples from SMS in the mail today. The carpet is too light as well as the headliner. I think there was a miscommunication as to the correct shade of green. Very cool anyways. We'll get it sorted out.



share picture











 
Fenders are off! No rust in cowl area. Don't have a good picture of the cowl air intakes, but other than dirt and minor surface rust on the bottom side of dash, they are fine. The leaf debris is from fall/winter 07/08 when the Mustang sat outdoors near a tree. At least the previous owner kept it away from tree debris.

Kroil it don't spoil it!







After pulling headlight brackets, it is apparent there was a bigger collision than first thought (bumper bracket is tweaked on drivers side) up front as can be seen in a rusty wrinkle on the radiator support. Aside from it needing to be replaced from the towing damage it is coming off the car.



 
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Also, I did take two measurements of frame width, front (28.44" or therabouts with tape measure) and rear (43.00). I managed to keep my PMD to a minimum. The rear spring mount appears appropriate for height (about 15") as well. I'll have to get the car elevated to do diagonal measurements. So far it doesn't appear the car is out of square. But only a couple measurements don't determine that, I know, just curious due to 1/4 replacement and front end damage.

I'm going to have to rely on the more knowledgeable folks if our Mach 1 is crooked beyond the size of my wallet.

 
The parking brake cable is going to be a major pain to remove, due to rust on the floor.

The engine bay harness is tucked into a bracket under the dash. Without my readers on and a dim headlamp, it looks like the bracket will have to be bent out of the way, as it appears to be permanent.

 
The parking brake cable is going to be a major pain to remove, due to rust on the floor.

The engine bay harness is tucked into a bracket under the dash. Without my readers on and a dim headlamp, it looks like the bracket will have to be bent out of the way, as it appears to be permanent.
Click to expand...
That is correct on the bracket, it bends out to free the harness

Also, there will be MUCH cheaper places that SMS for carpet and headliners

Only use them for seat material - and some colors of deluxe door panel material

 
The parking brake cable is going to be a major pain to remove, due to rust on the floor.

The engine bay harness is tucked into a bracket under the dash. Without my readers on and a dim headlamp, it looks like the bracket will have to be bent out of the way, as it appears to be permanent.
Click to expand...
That is correct on the bracket, it bends out to free the harness

Also, there will be MUCH cheaper places that SMS for carpet and headliners

Only use them for seat material - and some colors of deluxe door panel material
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip on the bracket! I was guessing on it needing to be bent.

Yes, much cheaper places for carpet and headliner. I like ACC's offering of the Mach 1 carpet with the "mass backing". If that will eliminate doing dynamat, I'd be happy (done one car with dynamat). 

Their sample for headliner material was the wrong color(too light). Who has the correct colors and grain pattern?

Here's a picture of the bracket and underside of dash for cowl air inlet plenum.



How the heck does the parking brake cable come out of the car? Is the parking brake assembly removable?



upload and share image

 
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Turns out passenger door is from a 73. We discovered while attempting to remove glass, regulator, etc. creating a shell. I did a search and discovered what rivets were doing in the door glass reataining bracket. Guess I'll be drilling rivets tomorrow.





 
The metal work list keeps growing as we discover more rust after removal of parts.

The right tail light had a stud (lower, outboard) that was just spinning when trying to remove the nut. Probably why the PO couldn't sell off that tail light assembly. We applied Kroil and let it soak for a few days. I used vise grips to hold the stud still while I tried to break the nut loose with an open end wrench and the stud sheared at the nut. I tried to split the nut with a dremel cutoff wheel, but couldn't get the proper angle so the cutoff wheels kept breaking while cutting into the harder steel of the stud. Seeing the lower tail light braket was badly rusted, I just pried on the tail light and ripped the stud through the corroded bracket.

Replacing this bracket looks like it will be difficult. Then again the passenger 1/4 is probably coming off the car.



The trunk seal channel is rusted bad in one section and will need to be cut out.



 
Removed the rear 1/4 extensions (heavier and more solid than I thought they'd be). Still can't figure out how the passenger rear 1/4 was reattatched when replaced many years ago. I guess all will be revealed when the car is stripped to bare steel.





 
Still wondering how the heck the backside of panels get rust removed, treated and coated/painted, especially with all the extra structure, adjacent panels and seams.

The passenger rear 1/4 is probably coming off so that will help, but at this time I don't think the drivers side will be removed. It isn't "bad" rust, but significant enough to me that painting the outside of the panel will only last so long until that iron moss eats its way through.

 
The metal work list keeps growing as we discover more rust after removal of parts.

The right tail light had a stud (lower, outboard) that was just spinning when trying to remove the nut. Probably why the PO couldn't sell off that tail light assembly. We applied Kroil and let it soak for a few days. I used vise grips to hold the stud still while I tried to break the nut loose with an open end wrench and the stud sheared at the nut. I tried to split the nut with a dremel cutoff wheel, but couldn't get the proper angle so the cutoff wheels kept breaking while cutting into the harder steel of the stud. Seeing the lower tail light braket was badly rusted, I just pried on the tail light and ripped the stud through the corroded bracket.

Replacing this bracket looks like it will be difficult. Then again the passenger 1/4 is probably coming off the car.



The trunk seal channel is rusted bad in one section and will need to be cut out.

Click to expand...
Brett, if you replace the tail light panel... it will solve both of those issues

 
Thanks Don for the links! Yes, I was beginning to think that replacing the tail panel would solve many issues. Plus give better access for taking care of metal surfaces that would otherwise be inaccessible.

Passenger door window removed. It took me one hour, including clean up.



 
Brett was the glass riveted in ?  If so the glass and mounting plate ... possibly door are 1973

I have all the mounting parts to make it the 71-2 style bolt in studs VS 73 rivets if you need it

 

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