Her 72 Mach 1

[72Mach168Cam]

On the use of the DazeCars spring compressor tool;

I used Rem Oil to keep the threaded rod lubed to prevent galling. The big nut is 1 1/4" and the two nuts on the welded bolts are 9/16".

When installing the nuts at the lower shock mount holes I had to use a wrench to tighten the nut on the outboard welded bolt/stud. The tolerances were too tight to use a socket. When flipping it 180 degrees on the drivers side the nut would not install on the welded bolt as it was too close to the spring perch. I had flipped it 180 because the threaded rod was touching the upper shock tower mount bracket. So I flipped it back and did not have any interference with the threaded rod and the upper shock support bracket. It might be a stack up of tolerances or the drivers side of the cars suspension is crooked (there is evidence of accident damage on this side of the car). Although the threaded rod never really is centered on either side.

Also I supported the rotor/spindle with a milk crate when unbolting the spring perch from the A-arm to keep the suspension from dropping before I unbolted the A-arm. The directions noted that the spring only needs to be compressed 3-4 inches. I did an eyeball measurement until I felt it was compressed enough, then I measured from the center of the bearing hub to the floor. At 21 inches that was just right. The bottom of the frame to the floor measurement with the car on jackstands was 21.75 inches.

After the spring and perch were removed from the upper a-arm I was concerned, that while the directions stated to loosen the nut to remove compressed spring tension I thought that the whole assembly would just spin. It did not and worked great.

I highly recommend this tool. Having never removed coil springs from a Ford before and never using a spring tool like this one it was easy and safe.

 

[Don C]

Great! I have a set of the external compressors that have this little j-hook that's supposed to keep the compressor bolts from moving. I used it once on struts and was nervous the whole time. That was many years ago, don't know why I still have them. Maybe my wife is right, I'm a tool hoarder

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Great! I have a set of the external compressors that have this little j-hook that's supposed to keep the compressor bolts from moving. I used it once on struts and was nervous the whole time. That was many years ago, don't know why I still have them. Maybe my wife is right, I'm a tool hoarder

It's a great tool! Get one you won't be disappointed. 

I too have a thing for tools and also maintenance manuals.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

I finished fabbing wooden coil spring replacements. The 4x4 blocks ended up being 11" in length. I installed two 5/16X2" lag screws through the lower shock mount holes. I used a piece of scrap aluminum across the top of the shock tower with another 5/16X2 lag screw to attach the top of the block of wood.

With the help of a neighbor we rolled the camaro out of the shop and used some HF wheel dollies to move the Mach 1 so it too could go out the door. Between picking up the uhaul car trailer, installing wooden coil spring replacements, moving "stuff" out of the way, assembling HF wheel dollies, moving two cars out of the shop and using a come-along to winch the Camaro back in the shop it took about 6 hours. We ran out of daylight and have to load the Mach 1 onto the trailer this morning.

Today is the day! The Mach 1 is taking a huge leap toward the ultimate goal of being streetable again. It may have antiquated steering, suspension, brakes and drivetrain. But it will not be mistaken for anything else on the road. My wife's 1972 Ford Mustang Mach 1 will boast of its American pedigree with its unique body style. Its contours, curves and steel muscle car bulk will speak to the heart of yesteryear that resides within those of us that remember what it was like to not have to seek out emblems to identify make, model and brand.

As we lie awake in bed last night my wife spoke of how she felt like it was Christmas eve. Such as it felt when she was a little girl.

I only wish I had the knowledge and skills that many posess on this forum to truly restore the entire Mustang ourselves. I do not, I am only a fair wrench turner. Therefore we must contract out the bodywork and paint. It won't go any faster as this is a huge financial undertaking. The time to reassemble will be dictated by how much we can afford to buy parts. Fortunately we will be able to refurbish many parts ourselves.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

A pic of the Mustang on the trailer from the other day.

The bodyshop called and said the Mustang is done being "blasted" down to bare steel and we are planning a trip to the bodyshop tomorrow to have a look. I hope there is enough metal left after the primer/bondo and rust are gone. Will post pics tomorrow.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Visited the bodyshop today. Good news and bad news. But it's all fixable....by a professional. It got a bit more expensive, which will add an unknown time to completion.

The previously replaced passenger quarter panel that was discovered during teardown is good to go. But the drivers quarter is toast, it's all wrinkly, its gotta go. Passenger rocker is also getting replaced, its bent.







The missing seams have reappeared.

 

[JimB73]

Unless the pictures isn't showing the damaged Q panel very well it doesn't look that bad...When I had ours in the shop the passenger side Q panel had been hit years ago and had a questionable repair job done and then was hit again. I think mine looked worse then what you have. When I discussed it with the body shop guy he said it was up to me to decide if I wanted to keep the original metal or cut it out and replace with repro panel. For him, the labor was about the same to do either. He was confident that he could get it back real close so I went that route. When he was done it was near perfect, only required a thin skim coat to get it there. At that time I had read a lot about bad fitting panels and I like that idea of not having to cut up the car. Time will tell if it was a good choice... Just something to consider. Most shops now probably don't want take the time to do the hammer & dolly work.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Unless the pictures isn't showing the damaged Q panel very well it doesn't look that bad...When I had ours in the shop the passenger side Q panel had been hit years ago and had a questionable repair job done and then was hit again. I think mine looked worse then what you have. When I discussed it with the body shop guy he said it was up to me to decide if I wanted to keep the original metal or cut it out and replace with repro panel. For him, the labor was about the same to do either. He was confident that he could get it back real close so I went that route. When he was done it was near perfect, only required a thin skim coat to get it there. At that time I had read a lot about bad fitting panels and I like that idea of not having to cut up the car. Time will tell if it was a good choice... Just something to consider. Most shops now probably don't want take the time to do the hammer & dolly work.

It isn't that great of a picture. It does look worse in person. Our bodyman said the metal is "stretched" badly and that it would require more labor than replacing the whole 1/4.

Sure wish I had the skills to do the parts replacing myself as this project has now blown out the budget I had in mind. But I really want this for my wife. So it will be done.

I could go on and on as to why I am in a hurry to fix up my wife's Mustang. I'll explain it as simply as possible. Maybe there will be some readers that would get it and most may not; I owe my wife a lot for sticking with me as long as she did through the years of my alcoholism. I am in my 18th month of sobriety and I am trying to make up for lost time. That is it in a nutshell.

 

[clevelandcoupe]

Brett,

Congrats on your sobriety, your higher power is surely watching over you during this thing called life.

Your wife must be a wonderful person and definitely deserves her mach 1 completed.

Thanks, Jay

 

[OMS]

Brett, congrats on 18 months I know it is day by day

I wish you the best, keep fighting it you can win the battle.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Thanks ClevelandCoupe and OMS!

 

[rio1856]

Brett Congratulations!!! on your achievement of 18 months. I lost a very close friend and one  of the finest street Cops I have ever seen due to alcoholism. Having a wife that will stick with you through it all is a blessing!  After everything I have gone through in my career mine never wavered by my side she is the world to me.

 

[protouringstang73]

Congrantulations for being sober so long, glad to hear that you got your life back and you got a wife that stayed by your side thru all that, that’s beautiful!! Stay focused, spending time on the car will hold you on the right track

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Thanks all! Family First! I endeavor to persevere (Chief Dan George).

We have many projects to accomplish while the body is away from home. Even though our shop is small (1000 sq.ft.) I can't get over the huge space we now have available.

The first and biggest project (I think) will be the wire harness sections. I plan to put a sheet or two of plywood on a pair of saw horses where the Mustang sat for 10 years and lay the harness out for inspection and repair. The engine bay harness needs the most attention. The firewall connector/plug was so brittle with age, several pieces crumbled and fell off while unplugging it. That is the biggest problem with the engine harness. I imagine we'll have to buy a whole used harness to get that part.

The underdash harness looks in good condition with minimal hacking for one aftermarket stereo. The Mach 1 is a tach and gauges Mustang. So I hope no major issues are found with this harness.

The door speaker harness is gone from the passenger side (different door) and cut short from the drivers side. I did see while reading another build that a member of this forum has nos set(s), but I imagine those are worth quite a bit. I think it would be nice to locate a factory AM/8 track to finish the "look". But we may just get one of those units that are vintage looking with blue tooth capability as that is what my wife would like to install.

The SEM painting of plastic parts will have to wait for warmer spring weather.

Now would be a good time to make a list of things to do during the Mach 1's absence.

 

[clevelandcoupe]

Brett,

I would suggest that you contact "MidLife" one of our members on the harness refurbishing. Many of the members here have had their wiring harness issues taken care of by him and are pleased with the results.

Thanks, Jay

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Thanks a bunch Jay! I found his website. If it looks like I'd be in over my head doing the harness restoration myself, I'll definitely contract it out to Midlife Harness. He'll be the first contact I make to see about a new connector for the engine harness. Or any other parts needed. Thanks again for the tip.

 

[OMS]

Which connector ... I have a parts harness, mice chomped on many wires, if I have the right connector it is yours for free

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Which connector ... I have a parts harness, mice chomped on many wires, if I have the right connector it is yours for free

The engine harness underdash connector. It is a tach/gauges optioned Mustang if that makes a difference.THANKS Don!

As a side note I need to put in a sheet metal order later this week or first thing next week Don. In addition I need to solve the problem that was discovered with the passenger rocker panel. It seems there is no reproduction part. Ours isn't rusty, it's bent and dented. If a suitable donor isn't found, it will just need to be "fixed". The body guy said it would be cheaper to replace. He's restored several earlier Mustangs, but no 71-73's and isn't aware of the lack of reproduction parts for this vintage.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Bodywork is progressing along nicely. Floor is cut out and epoxy primer applied to the bare steel.

A big shoutout to Don at Ohio Mustang Supply! Thanks to OMS replacement metal is on the way. The excitement in my wife's voice and the expressions on her face are priceless this week.

The journey continues...

 

[turtle5353]

Looking good! The only thing i would be worried about when removing the floor pan in one piece is the structure moving. At the least, i would have welded in some temporary bracing in a X pattern to keep the shell from moving. the floor is an integral part of the structure of the car. Without proper bracing with the floor removed, the car can easily come out of square. If it was on a level frame table/jib it wouldn't be as big of a deal. But if the jack stands were not all level and even then it could have put a small bind in the chassis that you don't see. then when you cut the floor out it lets the body flex and relax onto the jack stands. Then you weld the new pan in and the body is in the relaxed position and no long completely square and now your body is forever slightly tweaked. As long as he keeps it on the stands and doesn't move anything you may be ok. But I would certainly make sure the floor is back in and welded completely before he does any further work on other panels. DO NOT cut out the rockers before the floor is in or that thing will foldup like an accordion.

It looks like he is doing nice work. Clean. I would have him spray the inside of frame rails and torque boxes also with Rust Bullet or something similar.

Keep us posted..... I like this thread!!