Her 72 Mach 1

[Hemikiller]

The partial VIN stamped on engine blocks, transmissions and shock towers is *usually* ---- year | assembly plant | unit number. My 71 Mach as a 4 in the year location on the fender apron. Metuchen was known for mistakes like that, guessing the guy doing the stamping was a bit sloppy.

P is Twin Cities plant , IIRC they made full size Fords there.

I would simply loop the return line back to the pressure side of the box. You can jam a piece of hose on between the two hoses and clamp it in place. No ill affects by removing the shocks, but don't really see a need to remove them until you do the suspension.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Thanks for the looping suggestion Hemikiller. That should work fine.

The reason I thought of removing the shocks/tower was because while at the bodyshop the engine bay will be stripped and painted. No other reason for removal, just thought with them out of the way it would be easier for paint.

 

[Hemikiller]

If the bodyshop is doing the engine compartment, I'd be inclined to strip everything off the front of the car and deliver it to them on a dolly or something like that.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

If the bodyshop is doing the engine compartment, I'd be inclined to strip everything off the front of the car and deliver it to them on a dolly or something like that.

Yes, that would be the best way. But the logistics of delivering the Mach 1 sans front suspension are complicated. I looked into buying a nice car trailer last month, but couldn't justify the expense. I don't own a welder and have only a rudimentary knowledge of welding (I suck). We planned on just renting a Uhaul car trailer to bring the Mustang to the bodyshop.

I do have a coworker/friend that is an excellent welder/fabricator that could fab a dolly setup if we have time. We could probably build some type of dolly that utilizes suspension bolting points and buy some solid wheelbarrow tires from Lowes/HD. Might still be a pain in the arse using a come-along to winch the Mustang body up on the uhaul trailer. Some random thoughts on the fact that having the engine compartment painted with the suspension intact has been bothering me.

 

[HOTY65]

 The bellhousing had a mouse nest. Full of goat head seeds and mouse turds. Hope I don't get the hanta virus.

Must be a pretty common occurrence.

My Dad went to back out of my driveway a few years ago in his 96 F150, and the clutch wouldn't engage. Suspecting damaged clutch pressure plate, got it home, tore into it and found it was full of mice nesting. It was also full of dog food, from where the mice were raiding the dog dinner bowl from the garage. It was just about this time of year when the rodents are seeking somewhere warm to shelter. 

That small vent hole in the bottom of the bell housing is just perfect for them to climb in and out.

 

[mach71351c]

 

I have suggestion. Pull the shocks and springs. Cut a 4x4 block of wood to fit in place of the spring to hold car up. Pre loosen all suspension bolts up.  The BS should be able to deal with R & I of the suspension easy enough at that point.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

I have suggestion. Pull the shocks and springs. Cut a 4x4 block of wood to fit in place of the spring to hold car up. Pre loosen all suspension bolts up.  The BS should be able to deal with R & I of the suspension easy enough at that point.

Great idea on the 4x4 wood block, thanks! I do have a couple of 4x4 scrap pieces in the shop. 

You wouldn't happen to know the length that works on the 4x4?

Would the Mustang still be loadable onto a car trailer without worrying(too much) about the block of wood popping out?

Thanks!

 

[Hemikiller]

Put a lag screw or a construction screw and washer through one of the lower shock mount holes in the spring saddle. Knowing the length of the shock, you'd be around 12", but grab a tape measure to be certain.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Put a lag screw or a construction screw and washer through one of the lower shock mount holes in the spring saddle.  Knowing the length of the shock, you'd be around 12", but grab a tape measure to be certain.

Thanks!

Started removing brake components today. I emptied the master cylinder as much as possible. Also looped the power steering lines together.

As a side note, I am somewhat anxious about removing the coil springs. I've done it before on my project car. But I was present when a friend of mine had a coil spring compressor tool break while removing springs from a Chevelle, many years ago. The spring cleared his head by a fraction of an inch as it flew across the shop. The echoes of it clanging and banging still can be heard in the back of my mind. That happened thirty years ago and I still vividly remember how "white" his face turned, which was followed by him dropping whatever tools he held and just walking out of the auto hobby shop at the base we were stationed together.

It also looks like I'll be temporarily dropping the steering column to remove the clutch/brake pedal assembly. Anything to be aware of, other than removing hardware?

 

[Don C]

Very dangerous, for sure. This is the safest type. You can build your own or buy one.

https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60-77-Mustang-GT500-Falcon-Comet-AMC-AMX-Ranchero-Coil-Spring-Compressor/151999148338?hash=item2363daf132:g:HHoAAMXQROxRfK~E:sc:USPSPriority!97405!US!-1

 

[vintageman]

Very dangerous, for sure. This is the safest type. You can build your own or buy one.

https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60-77-Mustang-GT500-Falcon-Comet-AMC-AMX-Ranchero-Coil-Spring-Compressor/151999148338?hash=item2363daf132:g:HHoAAMXQROxRfK~E:sc:USPSPriority!97405!US!-1

That is the one that I used after trying the ones at the local auto parts stores. Very easy to use, still gives a pucker when the springs creak but very safe.  Good luck.

Tom

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Very dangerous, for sure. This is the safest type. You can build your own or buy one.

https://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60-77-Mustang-GT500-Falcon-Comet-AMC-AMX-Ranchero-Coil-Spring-Compressor/151999148338?hash=item2363daf132:g:HHoAAMXQROxRfK~E:sc:USPSPriority!97405!US!-1

That is the one that I used after trying the ones at the local auto parts stores. Very easy to use, still gives a pucker when the springs creak but very safe.  Good luck.

Tom

Very nice tool! Thanks!

 

[clevelandcoupe]

Here is my answer to suspension removal for rebuilding. Its a couple steering type Harbor Freight casters and some 3" steel channel iron.

Worked well for me and I even moved it on and off the trailer for sand blasting before and after. Also, I suggest the "DazeCars" spring compressor and built one myself.

Thanks, Jay

 

[mach71351c]

 

I did run a screw down from the top down to hold the block in place so I could jack the car up and the block would stay in place.

I ran the car on and off the trailer 3 times.  The block was around a foot long.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Thanks all. I have a long enough scrap piece of 4x4 for both sides.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Ordered the spring compressor from ebay. We have 13 days until our tentative scheduled date at the bodyshop. Hopefully by the time the tool arrives it is all that is left to do on my wife's Mach 1.

I perused our bodyshop's FB page yesterday and noticed all the photos of his projects started with either mostly assembled or completely assembled vehicles. The shop owner knows we are bringing in a rolling shell. But I hope and I say this with pride, it shocks the heck out of his employees when they see my wife's Mach 1 arrive on a uhaul car trailer completely stripped with just the essentials to make it roll. My wife wanted to learn how to do bodywork and paint, but with the 12 year pause and little kids now, that isn't realistic.

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Coil spring tool arrived today. Looks like a well made, quality tool. Can hardly wait to use it.

 

[73pony]

Put some oil on the threads. Trust me on this!!!

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Put some oil on the threads. Trust me on this!!!

Will do, thanks!

 

[72Mach168Cam]

Old gasoline....STINKS...BAD!

Got that out of the way. Hard to believe there would be anything left in the lines after almost 30 years of being off the road and no gas tank for at least half that. Probably mostly additives. Smelled like rotten varnish. Had to open all the windows and doors to the shop to ventilate. It was a comfortable 60 degrees in the shop and 34 outside.

Almost done with teardown for the bodyshop. Removed fuel and brake lines on Saturday. The fuel vent line and brake lines were well documented for position and routing, but fuel line was not documented at all, it just got removed and tossed outside. Removed calipers, sway bar, motor mounts and coil springs today.

I still have to fab up some wood blocks to replace springs and remove clutch/brake pedal assembly. There still is some window sealant that needs to be scraped. I'd just use acetone, but it's cold outside and I must be getting older, because I like the heaters in my shop.

The Dazesprings tool worked great. A milk crate was used for support until I was ready to pull the upper A-arm.









Original color; Ivy Glow...



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