Here is my 72 Grande 351c 2v

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Joined
Sep 19, 2023
Messages
45
Reaction score
70
Location
Tacoma, WA
My Car
1972 Grande
Started stripping the paint and made my initial post in the introduction section https://7173mustangs.com/threads/my-name-is-rob-here-is-my-72-grande-351c-2v.44547 . As this will be a huge project, I decided to move over here to the project section. The order of this project is strip paint, epoxy primer, bodywork as needed, followed by paint. After that, I have a full EFI conversion including timing control to install. Replacing every weather strip on the car. Removing the FMX transmission and replacing it with a TKX.

Now on to today's progress, removing the rear bumper, side markers, and tail lights. The tail lights sucked to remove as along with the normal seal someone used what seemed like an entire tube of black RTV to bond them to the car forever. So they took a good 45 minutes to remove. However, the car gods took pityPXL_20240318_214533363.jpg on me and the bumper came off in under 2 minutes with an impact.
 

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Not too much done today, took the car off the jack stands to move it over a bit. My garage is too small and I had to make some more space to keep going on the driver's side. Stripped the area above the trunk and a bit on the driver's side. Trying to keep making progress every day, so when I get another 70 plus degree day I am ready to start priming it.

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No, was thinking about it but it is in really good condition. Also the headliner is perfect so I can't get to the vinyl trim retainers without ruining the headliner. I have a half inch belt sander I am going to use to try to remove the paint up to the vinyl top. First I need to remove all the trim around the doors. So if anyone has a good tutorial on that please point me in the right direction. As I said previously I am replacing all weatherstripping, door handles, in the last month I have spent 2k in parts. NPD should love me by now lol. I also bought a NACA hood, funny enough bought the hood because I put a RPM AIR GAP intake on and it sits so tall I need more clearance for a filter. I have a drop base that works with the summit 600cfm carb, but am changing over to an Aces Killshot EFI and my drop base won't work with it. That's me just got to keep piling on more work for this car. On a better note pretty sure I dropped at least 30 pounds of weight replacing the original iron intake. Holy crap that thing is heavy.
 
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Ok, the new hood from Summit showed up it is an OER hood. Summit had the best shipping price of only $185 versus everyone else at 300-500. The hood fits pretty well. I need to do some more adjusting but I think the curve of the hood is pretty close and can match it up shimming the fenders. Here are some pictures. The rear of the hood by the windshield needs to be bent upwards maybe 1/8th inch, but it is close to matching. For the first rough fitting the gaps aren't horrible but will need some more tweaking. Just wanted to get it on while I had my son here to help. That way I can see what I am working with and the adjustments needed.

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If the 10-day weather is at all accurate next weekend I will be priming the car. The only thing left to strip is the top of the front fenders and tail light panel.

On a side note, if anyone in western Washington needs a hood please message me. I don't want to scrap the original hood but I don't have space to store it. It is stripped and ready for paint. No rust original hood, somebody should need one.
 

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Well finally got some warm weather last weekend here in Washington. So I finally got to spray the epoxy primer. The primer went on a bit rough not sure why, but I needed to sand it anyway, so it's not a big deal. Now on to a bit of bodywork. I used a 1.3 tip which is what the tech sheet called for. I think the next round of epoxy I will move up to a 1.6 tip, and see if more flow gives me a smoother result.

*Also primered the original hood, which is still for sale if anyone is local.
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It actually works great, doesn't heat up the panels too much. Went through 4 sanding drums for the entire car. Removing 2 paint jobs on this car so it was pretty thick. Much faster than using an orbital sander.
Thats great. I am planning on stripping mine this coming winter and I have two layers of paint as well.
 
So more progress was made today. Tomorrow I need to sand out a few runs, then spray it again. Followed by a cut and buff and should be good enough for me. Not going for show quality, it will be a weekend cruiser.

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Not perfect by any means but not bad considering the last car I painted was a good 15-20 years ago.
 

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Looks like it's turning out nicely! Keep us posted on your progress.
Will do. Just want to get the outside done, next up EFI and interior. I have a room full of parts new carpet, new seats, seat belts ect. Once I get all the stuff I purchased so far on to the car. Then I will order the TKX and start that adventure. That will most likely be next winters project if I'm being honest.
 
A tip for anyone painting their car, I used speedokote epoxy primer, which sands awesome but their tech sheet says to use a 1.3 tip, don't that stuff is thick, the second round of primer I used a 1.6 tip on my paint gun, so much smoother finish. The black is also speedokote Jet Black single stage. It went on with a 1.3 tip. Spraying the primer the second time was to cover the body work that needed done. I used the epoxy to seal all the metal then did body work on top of that, followed by the 2nd coat of epoxy over the bondo fully sealing it in. Then 30 minute cure then off to the single stage. Coat every 10 minutes(2-3 coats) then let cure for 6 hours, it will be hard enough you can move the car without worry of messing up the paint. At least if you're painting it outside in an enclosed tent like I did(man I need a shop). Speedokote is middle-of-the-road quality, does the job well, and is not ridiculously expensive. Around $300 total for a gallon of epoxy primer and a gallon of single stage black on Amazon.

Not going to say it was not a lot of work, but I just could not see paying someone 10K to do something I can do myself in my spare time. Again I wasn't looking for perfection, but I'm sure after a cut and buff it will be pretty close to it. Anything is better than when I started, the original paint was cracking and falling off. I'm excited it is starting to look like a car again lol.
 
A tip for anyone painting their car, I used speedokote epoxy primer, which sands awesome but their tech sheet says to use a 1.3 tip, don't that stuff is thick, the second round of primer I used a 1.6 tip on my paint gun, so much smoother finish. The black is also speedokote Jet Black single stage. It went on with a 1.3 tip. Spraying the primer the second time was to cover the body work that needed done. I used the epoxy to seal all the metal then did body work on top of that, followed by the 2nd coat of epoxy over the bondo fully sealing it in. Then 30 minute cure then off to the single stage. Coat every 10 minutes(2-3 coats) then let cure for 6 hours, it will be hard enough you can move the car without worry of messing up the paint. At least if you're painting it outside in an enclosed tent like I did(man I need a shop). Speedokote is middle-of-the-road quality, does the job well, and is not ridiculously expensive. Around $300 total for a gallon of epoxy primer and a gallon of single stage black on Amazon.

Not going to say it was not a lot of work, but I just could not see paying someone 10K to do something I can do myself in my spare time. Again I wasn't looking for perfection, but I'm sure after a cut and buff it will be pretty close to it. Anything is better than when I started, the original paint was cracking and falling off. I'm excited it is starting to look like a car again lol.
Your paint looks good, back when we sprayed single stage, our goal was just to make sure there was enough product to wet sand and buff down to a smooth surface. haha.
 
Your paint looks good, back when we sprayed single stage, our goal was just to make sure there was enough product to wet sand and buff down to a smooth surface. haha.
I had a guy I knew when I was in my early twenties that painted his 68 Charger solid Navy blue single stage with a low nap roller and then wet sanded the hell out of it and buffed it and it looked okay. We were kind of shocked that it came out a lot better than all of us that were busting his chops about it thought it would,
 

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