Hot Start Issue

[BDK]

Alright guys, agree I need a timing light and going to get one ASAP. This could save me many headaches. As for the fuel level checked it today and was a bit high so I backed off to just a trickle.

Thought I may have actually found the issue as I popped off the dist cap and saw the dist ground wire not connected...thought this might be it but connecting did not change anything.

I also read the Pertronix II will retard timing 4 degrees at start so that may be an option if this persists after the testing. Gonna wait till I have the timing light to setup the timing portion.....

As for the starter, I don't have a mini-starter but the original starter is on the car. You know the 75Lb. chunk of iron...

Appreciate the feedback and help!

BDK

 

[barnett468]

you can get a lite that has a tach if you want . might be helpful in your case.

 

[BDK]

Update....

It was the TIMIMG!......thank you ALL for the help. The initial timing was around, get this 30 and I took it down to right around 10, will most likely bring it back to 12-14. However, the hot start issue has disappeared.....

However, still have the hesitation when I floor it but need to fix an issue I caused when trying to adjust the fuel level. Think I tore the small gasket under the adjusting nut as it is leaking here. Anything special to replacing this? May sound like a stupid question but when I take the lock screw out and adjusting nut to replace the gasket how do I know when I put back in that they are in the same location as when removed??

BDK

 

[barnett468]

i hope you have your vacuum advance plugged

remove the screw

pry the nut straight up . the adjustment will not change

use a razor blade to remove the gasket

put WD40 on the gaskets before installing them

if the vacuum advance is plugged, the hesitation is likely from a lean condition in the carb like the main jets are maybe around 2 sizes too small.

you can post a photo of the ends of the front spark plug from each side of the engine . if they are nearly white, it is likely too lean.

.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I will suggest new plugs. Yours may look good, but with the engine timing that far out, they have been exposed to excessive heat. A crack in the porcelain can be hard to see and can cause ignition problems. As you eliminate and tune your engine, you don't need unknown variables.

 

[BDK]

Thanks guys...chasing another issue along with the "old" hot start issue. Working the float level up but no matter how much I turn the screw counterclockwise it doesn't come out the bowl...in fact not anywhere near the top as it will die after awhile......my guess here is either a bottomed out float or perhaps the gas is old. Am installing a pressure gauge to see what the fuel pressure is, this should tell me if I have a delivery problem. That could also be the hesitation issue......

When I got the car back from the builder the filter was quite odd looking like the gas had been sitting for awhile. Replaced it but may drop the tank and clean it out as well once I see what the pressure is.

Oh yes, Barnett the Vacuum Advance is plugged.....

 

[BDK]

Jeff, I replaced plugs, wires and the coil during the whole process of finding the timing being off.....should be good there but will check the plugs too...

 

[Chopper]

put the other pump nozzle on it.

set the gas level so it is just below the inspection hole at idle or 1/4 way up the clear window at idle.

disconnect and plug your vacuum advance hose.

if it still does it, retard the timing 3 degrees.

The carb is a brand new, so you think it may be a fuel starvation issue? How would that affect cranking over the engine? It's the cranking that is extremely difficult. As I crank I can see the atomization of the fuel around the carb (slight mist or cloud) so it seems there is fuel but without the car turning over maybe a spark issue.....not sure, just thinking out loud.

Years ago when I first had my car I had an issue when the car would get hot. Turns out that the there was too much heat near the fuel line.(at least this was how it was explained to me) once they moved the fuel line away from the heat source the car ran great.

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[Chopper]

put the other pump nozzle on it.

set the gas level so it is just below the inspection hole at idle or 1/4 way up the clear window at idle.

disconnect and plug your vacuum advance hose.

if it still does it, retard the timing 3 degrees.

The carb is a brand new, so you think it may be a fuel starvation issue? How would that affect cranking over the engine? It's the cranking that is extremely difficult. As I crank I can see the atomization of the fuel around the carb (slight mist or cloud) so it seems there is fuel but without the car turning over maybe a spark issue.....not sure, just thinking out loud.

Years ago when I first had my car I had an issue when the car would get hot. Turns out that the there was too much heat near the fuel line.(at least this was how it was explained to me) once they moved the fuel line away from the heat source the car ran great.

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Should have read the end of the thread, glad you got it lined out mate

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[BDK]

OK, well thought I had this beat. Loosing timing now and not sure why. So pulled the dist. to check gear and gear on CAM. Dist. gear looks just fine and CAM gear (at least looking down dist. hole) looks fine as well. I know it could be other items but the issue I am having now is getting the dist. back in.

I get the gears lined up but the oil pump drive is slightly off (see pic) as in not in the center of the hole. It is also a little loose, can move side to side. Is this normal or should it be centered and not able to move side to side?

 

[TommyK]

It should go back in provided you have the rotor oriented to the location it was pointing when it cam out. You actually have to lead the rotor a bit because it rotates slightly as the shaft goes down due to the shape of the gears.

If necessary, you can take a 5/16" deep socket on a long extension and rotate the oil pump driveshaft 1/8 turn at a time until the distributor drops in. Make sure you don't lose the socket down there. Tape it in if necessary.

 

[BDK]

Thanks Tommy, got it back together and set TDC along with rotor pointing at #1 cylinder. At this point it will just crank and crank but not firing. Know I am at TDC due to the mark on the balancer and the #1 plug hole pushing out air when I get close to TDC. Geesh.....this is frustrating.....gotta take a break!

BDK

P.S. getting gas as line reads around 7PSI and I can smell and see it....now need to check spark.....again new plugs, wires and coil....I am at a loss as it cranks over just fine too....

 

[BDK]

Tried a few more items today. Only getting 4.6volts across the coil in ACC position or starting (cranking engine). My assumption is that this should definitely be 12v so I know I am not getting spark.

Items I've tried....

1.) All fuses continuity test just fine

2.) replaced starter solenoid

3.) cleaned grounds from solenoid to block and block to firewall as well as battery posts and battery cable ends

4.) replaced new Pertronix coil with old coil (swapped back as it made no difference)

Ideas? Could it be the Pertronix Ignitor module? As I don't have the original points don't have anything to swap back to check.....

 

[basstrix]

Have you determined for certain you do not have spark?

 

[Don C]

Disconnect the Pertronix from the negative side of the coil and check the voltage to the positive side with the key in run position. If the voltage now reads close to battery voltage I suspect your Pertronix has a short to ground on the negative side. If the voltage is still low disconnect the Pertronix from the positive side of the coil and if the voltage is now near battery voltage the Pertronix is likely bad.

When cranking the voltage should fluctuate as the coil charges and discharges. A steady low voltage indicates a short on the negative side of the coil or an internal short.

 

[BDK]

I get nothing across the coil now.......just had 4.5 volts previously. Where should the block to firewall ground be. Anyone have a pic? does it matter where I ground the block?

 

[basstrix]

I just took a look at mine and I don't have a ground from the block to the firewall (which doesn't mean it's not supposed to one). I have the standard ground cable that goes from the block to the fender apron to the battery. I know there is more than 1 ground to the firewall under the dash, coming off the harness. You could always run a test lead from battery ground to a bare screw on the firewall to check that theory.

If you want to check out your pertronix, you could power it directly from the battery, temporarily, to see if it's working or not. Maybe Don or someone else familiar with pertronix can speak up about that.

 

[BDK]

Thanks Basstrix......I was thinking about the Pertronix idea as well. May give that a try and see what happens. I do have a ground from the block to firewall and one from the block to the battery/apron as well......JUst trying to eliminate issues....

Thanks for the help

 

[basstrix]

Wish I had more to offer...I know how frustrating these things can be.

 

[BDK]

Thanks man, I'll get it just have to keep plugging away...