Installation of TinMan subframe connectors (location and torque box)

[tony-muscle]

I am in the process of welding the TinMan subframe connectors. I am not completely clear on the exact location. The video says that it should be inserted about 6" into the front rail, but it does not specify if it is measured from the far or short end. I just want to confirm with someone that has installed them to make sure I have them properly located. Please see picture. That's the rear end of the connector. Should it be more forward. That picture is at about 7" into the front rail.

Another issue is that the bottom of my torque box and rear rail are not flat. The PO kept the car parked on a lift and the jack points were right there under the torque box. I think that over time they bent and that's why they looked wavy. I checked the squareness of the frame and at least it is still square. In any case, due to this wavy surface I won't have a flat surface where to weld the connector. Should I worry about this or just fill the gaps with weld. Thoughts?

 

[eddyw]

Here some photo's:

 

[jbojo]

Just to add, on the front rails drill a hole on each side so that when you insert the subframe connector you can weld the two together there too. Then just use a grinder to smooth it all out and paint and you don't even know it's been welded there. Makes for a stronger connection.

 

[eddyw]

Just to add, on the front rails drill a hole on each side so that when you insert the subframe connector you can weld the two together there too. Then just use a grinder to smooth it all out and paint and you don't even know it's been welded there. Makes for a stronger connection.

+1

 

[tony-muscle]

Thanks. Based on those pictures the location I was thinking for mine is very close. I saw in the installation video that they recommend two 1/2" holes located 2" apart. That will be my next step.

In regards to the waviness of my rear rail and torque box at that location I guess there is very little I can do. I guess my best choice is to fill the gaps between the rail and connector with weld.

 

[EdM]

I was under the impression that the car should be on its wheels when installing sub-frame connectors. Is this the case as I plan an install in the near future?

 

[jbojo]

I was under the impression that the car should be on its wheels when installing sub-frame connectors. Is this the case as I plan an install in the near future?

That is the recommendation. When I welded mine I had the jackstands on the rear axle to simulate the weight on the wheels.

 

[turtle5353]

I was under the impression that the car should be on its wheels when installing sub-frame connectors. Is this the case as I plan an install in the near future?

That is the recommendation. When I welded mine I had the jackstands on the rear axle to simulate the weight on the wheels.

I also used jack stands under the rear axle and I put 12" cement blocks under the front tires and let the car sit on the tires.

 

[tony-muscle]

I am having more problems than what I originally thought. The pictures above were taken without the floor pan. Now that the floor pan is welded I am having an interference issue. As you can see in the pictures below the subframe connector is hitting the floor, but I still have a 1/4" to 3/8" gap between the rail and rear of the connector. I can't move the connector any closer to the rail. What's going on? Any ideas? Will I have to weld a spacer in between the rail and connector? BTW, I installed Dynacorn floor pans.

Please advise.....

Here some photo's:

Eddy,

Do you have pictures of the subframe connector where it meets the rear rail taken from the outside side of the car? Also, what's the gap between the connector and the floor pan's oval opening on the rear? Do you have a picture showing the gap between the rear of the floor pan and connector? As stated in my post above I am having a gap between the connector and the rear rail. I would like to see how it should look like.

Thank you.

 

[jbojo]

I welded the rear first and then welded the front. I didn't have any clearance issues with the floor pan but then I didn't have to replace mine.

At the rear I used a floor jack to push the subframe connector up against the rear frame rail and a clamp to pull the weld plate against the frame rail. I then tack welded a few spots to hold it in place and then removed the clamp and jack and welded it all up. Then went to the front rail and welded that together. I have no gap at the rear. I am attaching a few pics but I can take specific ones if you need them.

 

[turtle5353]

I did the same thing with mine. I had a small gap at the rear and used a floor jack to push it up. I wasn't able to get mine completely flush but very very close. Tacked the back, removed jack, welded it up! Heres a link to a couple of pics of mine. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-laurel-mountain-mustang-subframe-connectors

 

[tony-muscle]

I see.... however, if i jack mine up to fit flush against the rail i will push the floor up. Do you have a gap between the floor pan and subframe? If so, how much of a gap?

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[turtle5353]

I see.... however, if i jack mine up to fit flush against the rail i will push the floor up. Do you have a gap between the floor pan and subframe? If so, how much of a gap?

1971 M-code Mach 1

I did push up against my floor pan in a few spots and it pushed up a little. There are still a few spots that have about 1/4" gap from top of subframe to floorpan. I would get them high and tight as possible without deforming the floor pan and tack it. you probably wont get it perfectly flush with the pan but up as far as possible. Your tying the 2 pieces of frame together for strength and not welding to the floor pan, so I wouldn't worry too much about a small gap.

 

[jbojo]

My connector is flush at the rear where I welded it. There are some gaps along the floor pan but not much. I don't think it was meant to weld the floor pan to the connector and I didn't do that. I know that with some subframe connectors you had to cut the floor pan to get them to fit and then weld them together. With the TinMan ones that is not necessary, that's why I got those.

 

[tony-muscle]

I will try pushing up, but I don't think I will completely close the 1/4" gap. I could try cutting the lip of the drain hole of the floor pan. That would give me some more room to push up.


If anyone has a picture that shows the area between the connector and the drain plug, it will be appreciated. I just want to get an idea how it looks in yours.

Thank you.

 

[jbojo]

I will try pushing up, but I don't think I will completely close the 1/4" gap. I could try cutting the lip of the drain hole of the floor pan. That would give me some more room to push up.


If anyone has a picture that shows the area between the connector and the drain plug, it will be appreciated. I just want to get an idea how it looks in yours.

Thank you.

The 3rd pic I posted earlier shows the plug in the rear. Is this the one you are asking about?

 

[tony-muscle]

I will try pushing up, but I don't think I will completely close the 1/4" gap. I could try cutting the lip of the drain hole of the floor pan. That would give me some more room to push up.


If anyone has a picture that shows the area between the connector and the drain plug, it will be appreciated. I just want to get an idea how it looks in yours.

Thank you.

The 3rd pic I posted earlier shows the plug in the rear. Is this the one you are asking about?

Perfect, thanks! I guess I missed it when I looked at your reply in my phone. Looking at your picture it appears that your subframe pushed the lips of the plug hole slightly up. Or maybe the Dynacorn floor pan is a bit different at the plug. I will have to compare to the old one.

I will have to wait until I come back from this holiday weekend to see what happens when I jack the subframe up. The wife didn't buy the idea of leaving me back home so I can work in the car the whole weekend.....

 

[mjlan]

The wife didn't buy the idea of leaving me back home so I can work in the car the whole weekend.....

That's unfortunate....

 

[jbojo]

I will try pushing up, but I don't think I will completely close the 1/4" gap. I could try cutting the lip of the drain hole of the floor pan. That would give me some more room to push up.


If anyone has a picture that shows the area between the connector and the drain plug, it will be appreciated. I just want to get an idea how it looks in yours.

Thank you.

The 3rd pic I posted earlier shows the plug in the rear. Is this the one you are asking about?

Perfect, thanks! I guess I missed it when I looked at your reply in my phone. Looking at your picture it appears that your subframe pushed the lips of the plug hole slightly up. Or maybe the Dynacorn floor pan is a bit different at the plug. I will have to compare to the old one.

I will have to wait until I come back from this holiday weekend to see what happens when I jack the subframe up. The wife didn't buy the idea of leaving me back home so I can work in the car the whole weekend.....

Yeah the lips did hit it but using the floor jack flattened it a little and made it all good.