Instrument cluster connector

[droptop73]

Does someone have a good diagram for the 73 standard instrument cluster connector? The wiring diagram I'm using is not very clear.

 

[Hemikiller]

Here ya go.....

 

[midlife]

Here you go.











B3


white/blue


2


LH front turn




B4


green/white


3


RH front turn




B5


black/green


60


cvr power




B6


yellow/white


29


fuel sending line




B9


white/red


31


oil pressure




B10


green/yellow


54


courtesy lamps




B11


purple/white


977


dual brake warning lamp




B12


red/white


39


temp sending unit




B13


red/yellow


640


lamp power




B14


black


57


ground




B17


green/black


12


high beam lamp




B18


blue/red


19


dash lamps

 

[droptop73]

Awesome, Thank you both! 

One other question... I cut the resistor wire before I realized it was a resistor wire. How much trouble am I in? 

 

[midlife]

Awesome, Thank you both! 

One other question... I cut the resistor wire before I realized it was a resistor wire. How much trouble am I in? 

You'll have to butt-splice it with another non-used wire to give the splice mechanical strength.  The resistor wire is a single-strand and can't be crimped by itself.  That's the purpose of the black wire that goes with it and doesn't go anywhere in the harness except under the tape.

 

[droptop73]

You'll have to butt-splice it with another non-used wire to give the splice mechanical strength.  The resistor wire is a single-strand and can't be crimped by itself.  That's the purpose of the black wire that goes with it and doesn't go anywhere in the harness except under the tape.

Is the length going to matter? It's about 5-6" long at the moment. 

 

[timachone]

Is the length going to matter? It's about 5-6" long at the moment. 

You have to be careful with such statements in the public... 

Yes, length is sometime a matter. 

Connector-wise, too...  :whistling:

 

[midlife]

That resistor wire needs to be 9.6 ohms, give or take an ohm.  Measure from the end that is cut off to the ACC signal at the fuse box (interior clips).

 

[droptop73]

I'm having issues with my gas gage. At the moment it's not working. I'm trying to sort through the diagram and seeing circuit 297 which appears to be the resistor wire and circuit 60 that is also black with yellow dots. My sender wire goes to circuit 29 and I have power to 297. Should the power go to circuit 60? 

 

[Don C]

Circuit 297 provides power to the instrument voltage regulator. Circuit 60 then provides the reduced and regulated voltage to the gauges. Circuit 29 (yellow/white stripe) then runs from the fuel gauge to the fuel sending unit. 

If the oil pressure and temperature gauges work the instrument voltage regulator is good. The most likely causes of a non-functioning fuel gauge is the sending unit or a connection between the gauge and sending unit.

Temporarily grounding the yellow/white stripe wire at the sending unit will show full indication. Do not leave this connected for more than a few seconds, or the gauge will be damaged. A safer way do do it is to ground it through a 10 ohm resistor, which will show a full tank.

 

[droptop73]

Is circuit 297 the resistor wire? It ties into 12v from the light green w/ red circuit 904. 

I'm trying to tie up some loose ends with the "painless" harness install. 

Gas gage and turn signals don't work at the moment... IMO the gas gage is higher on the importance level for now. 

 

[71fast]

Is circuit 297 the resistor wire? It ties into 12v from the light green w/ red circuit 904. 

I'm trying to tie up some loose ends with the "painless" harness install. 

Gas gage and turn signals don't work at the moment... IMO the gas gage is higher on the importance level for now. 

Yes, wire 297 is resistor wire from ignition switch to C-211 on non tach/guage system.  The wire 297 from wiper switch to connector C-307 is not shown as a resistor wire on the 1973_full.pdf, but I think it is.  Maybe you could verify that?  I can't tell if you have gauges or lights.

Ken    71fast

 

[droptop73]

My car has a light cluster, aftermarket gages. I'm working from the wiring diagram and it looks like 297 is a resistor wire from the C-211 connector to the ignition switch accessory terminal connector C-309. 

 

[Don C]

Only the portion of circuit 297 that feeds the instrument voltage regulator is a resistor wire. The resistor wire that runs to the ignition coil is part of circuit 16 (red/light green stripe).

 

[droptop73]

Thanks guys, I got things sorted out and now have a functioning, albeit inaccurate (as always) fuel gage. 

On to the turn signals after returning from Power Tour.... 

 

[Spencer73]

Here you go.











B3


white/blue


2


LH front turn




B4


green/white


3


RH front turn




B5


black/green


60


cvr power




B6


yellow/white


29


fuel sending line




B9


white/red


31


oil pressure




B10


green/yellow


54


courtesy lamps




B11


purple/white


977


dual brake warning lamp




B12


red/white


39


temp sending unit




B13


red/yellow


640


lamp power




B14


black


57


ground




B17


green/black


12


high beam lamp




B18


blue/red


19


dash lamps

I know this is an old post but I was hoping you might be able to point me in the right direction. Both of my Dash Turn signal lights don’t get power, the lights outside of my car work though. I also don’t get power for the dash lamps. I’ve checked and replaced a couple of fuses. I’ve already replaced the headlamp light switch earlier (I had no power to the tail lights but this resolved it). Any ideas on what I can check next without pulling wires?

 

[midlife]

Sounds like you might have a bad ground wire or trace. Are you using LED bulbs? Most of the time, they are polarity sensitive, so you have to be careful which side goes to ground and which side goes to power.

Do any other lamps on the dash lamp circuit work? These are wiper, heater, and headlight switch lamps.