mostly you remove the fenders to protect them from damage and to give you more space.
the other benefit is close inspection of the top of the frame rail and the ability to clean the engine aprons and shock tower and repaint so it can last another 40 years.
granted removing the fenders is time consuming. you then have to deal with re-alignment of the panels and replacing hardware as needed.
if you feel your car is in good mechanical shape then you can do it with the fenders on, there is no interference between the two.
it becomes while your at it syndrome.
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Now depending on how you decide to disconnect your front brake lines and how old the rubber hoses are will determine if your front suspension rebuild turns into a brake rebuild as well.
if the hard lines and hoses are rusted but you do not want to deal with the brake lines, then disconnect the brake line at the caliper bolt, and replace the 2 copper washers when you re-assemble.
if you need to replace the soft lines for the brake system and it is deteriorated there is a good chance the lines will snap when you disconnect at the frame rail mount. this will progress into at least changing out the front brake lines.
either way brake fluid is going to get all over, so you will need to clean it up make sure none gets on the fender paint and then touch up all the areas the paint came off.(dot 3 eats paint)
if you inspect the soft lines and they have cracks like a dry lake bed in the rubber you have to replace them and deal with the consequences.
as for reassembly, it goes fast, you get the upper arm all put together with new hardware and the spring perch, make sure you get the rubber isolators on the spring. compress the spring, install the upper arm leave the nuts a touch loose, get the spring seated, uncompress it a little, tighten up the 2 nuts in for the upper mount, torque to spec. get the lower arm on put the cam in leave it loose.
install the spindle, tighten up the 2 nuts for the upper and lower ball joint. get the strut rod installed, 2 nuts and into the cross member, and put the large nut on it from the outside. put the outer tierod on and tighten the nut.
now torque all to spec, and install the cotter pins, release the spring fully. eyeball the alignment of the caster 0 degrees and tighten up the lower arm cam to 80-100 foot/lb.
repeat for other side.
lower the car down a little to compress the suspension and install the shocks. double check all nuts torque to spec, make sure all cotter pins in place.
then re-install the shock tower covers(re-enforcement plates) re-install the shock tower braces.
take car for alignment.
done.
one more piece of advice, Stay far away from the Poly bushings, just get Normal Rubber bushings. the Squeaking among other things will drive you insane
