Looking to upgade factory center gauges.

[Stanglover]

I just picked up a factory center gauge cluster complete. My car does not have gauges, just ***** lights, but I would like to find small 1 1/2" oil, volts and temp gauges to fit behind the front panel so they look somewhat authentic. I don't want to wreck the originals, but make a fitment to mount the new gauges. I have seen some 1 1/2" gauges on E-bay, but not sure if they will work for me. I wouldn't mind running a mechanical oil gauge. Alternatively, if I could just find a volt gauge to replace the Amp gauge without damaging the pod, I might look at that as well. I do NOT intend to spend big bucks on this as it may not be practical in the long run. I do not want to bypass the ***** lights either if possible, so this is more of an experiment at this stage.

Anyone got any ideas without going into a 10 page post??

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

Bosch voltmeter in ammeter's place:

Hope this helps.

 

[73pony]

I am doing a similar upgrade, but mounting my gauges from the front with 2 1/16" gauges. One thing I can help out with is keeping the ***** lights as I plan to do the same. I have not figured up all of the thread sizes yet but you will have to remove the ***** light sending units and install a nipple and T into each opening then reinstall the ***** light sending unit in one outlet of the T and the new sending unit in the other outlet. Conversely on the water temp side I am looking into using the opening for the temp vac switch for one of the sensors to eliminate the T at the front of the block, I'm just not positive on getting an accurate reading from that position based on the T-Stat position. Also since I am doing all after market gauges with electric sending units (just something about a tube full of oil inside my car makes me nervous) I am building a harness for the gauges so if I need to remove at some point I can just unplug it.

 

[73pony]

I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

Bosch voltmeter in ammeter's place:

Hope this helps.

That looks fantastic. I searched for some time but was unable to find the actual gauge housing so I had to go the front mount route.

 

[Stanglover]

I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

Hope this helps.

Wow Eric, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Looks good and still somewhat original. The set I picked up is in VGC but does need a repaint. Other than that, I think this will work out great.

Thanks for the speedy reply,

Geoff.

 

[Stanglover]

I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

You literally take the gauge cluster apart, remove the factory ammeter, adjust the pegs on the aftermarket gauge, slip it in, and put the cluster back together. Easy-peasy.

Now, if you're wanting to replace the rest of the gauges as well, I would recommend getting all of the same-series gauges, and replace all three of them (so the needle sweeps are consistent). All of the factory gauges come out the same way, and the aftermarket gauges should slip right back in without jacking up the housing. It'll just be a matter of getting the wiring right after that.

That looks fantastic. I searched for some time but was unable to find the actual gauge housing so I had to go the front mount route.

Jason, I literally got lucky. An ad was posted on Kijiji for a complete set of gauges, tach and speedometer, center consul and the wiring harness for $***, dirt cheap so I was fortunate to grab it all. I guess even a blind dog gets a bone sometimes!!

There is another ad for center gauges on there right now, but the dreamer wants $500 !!!!

 

[Stanglover]

I am doing a similar upgrade, but mounting my gauges from the front with 2 1/16" gauges. One thing I can help out with is keeping the ***** lights as I plan to do the same. I have not figured up all of the thread sizes yet but you will have to remove the ***** light sending units and install a nipple and T into each opening then reinstall the ***** light sending unit in one outlet of the T and the new sending unit in the other outlet. Conversely on the water temp side I am looking into using the opening for the temp vac switch for one of the sensors to eliminate the T at the front of the block, I'm just not positive on getting an accurate reading from that position based on the T-Stat position. Also since I am doing all after market gauges with electric sending units (just something about a tube full of oil inside my car makes me nervous) I am building a harness for the gauges so if I need to remove at some point I can just unplug it.

Thanks Jason, that info will be of great help. I wasn't sure if I could, or how to even do it. I have a friend with a Mach 1 with both gauges and ***** lights and he swears they are factory, but I don't think so, no way. I do know his car had 73 parts added to it at some point, so I think it was changed, just don't know which way around.

 

[Stanglover]

I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

Hope this helps.

Do you by any chance have the part # for the Volt gauge? I looked on Summit Racing, but all I saw was 2 or 2 1/16th" gauges, nothing smaller. The one you show looks to be similar in size to the Ford ones.

Can you get back to me on that either here or a PM.

Thanks,

Geoff.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Glad you like it. ::thumb::

There's a thread floating around on exactly how to do it - Here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-amps-to-volts-bolt-in-gauge

Also - since you have the ***** lights, you might consider getting an RCCI conversion tach to replace the lights with something more functional. It'll keep the ***** lights in the circuit, but with a working tachometer, instead of just the blank face... which won't be as noticeable that it's a non-gauge equipped car.

Mine was originally a 'clock/speedo' car, and RCCI converts the clock to a tach as well, which plugs right back into the printed circuit and functions accordingly. I also did that at the same time I swapped the center gauge voltmeter, then installed new gauge lenses and LED bulbs. Couldn't be happier.

 

[Stanglover]

Glad you like it. ::thumb::

There's a thread floating around on exactly how to do it - Here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-amps-to-volts-bolt-in-gauge

Also - since you have the ***** lights, you might consider getting an RCCI conversion tach to replace the lights with something more functional. It'll keep the ***** lights in the circuit, but with a working tachometer, instead of just the blank face... which won't be as noticeable that it's a non-gauge equipped car.

Mine was originally a 'clock/speedo' car, and RCCI converts the clock to a tach as well, which plugs right back into the printed circuit and functions accordingly. I also did that at the same time I swapped the center gauge voltmeter, then installed new gauge lenses and LED bulbs. Couldn't be happier.

Again my thanks. I do have the RCCI conversion, been in for a season now and I love it. It has the ***** lights in it and they don't even show till the key is turned. I'd suggest ANYONE with lights and no tach, buy one of these units.

I'll check the link soon when I have some time and get back to you.

Geoff.

 

[Stanglover]

I am doing a similar upgrade, but mounting my gauges from the front with 2 1/16" gauges. One thing I can help out with is keeping the ***** lights as I plan to do the same. I have not figured up all of the thread sizes yet but you will have to remove the ***** light sending units and install a nipple and T into each opening then reinstall the ***** light sending unit in one outlet of the T and the new sending unit in the other outlet. Conversely on the water temp side I am looking into using the opening for the temp vac switch for one of the sensors to eliminate the T at the front of the block, I'm just not positive on getting an accurate reading from that position based on the T-Stat position. Also since I am doing all after market gauges with electric sending units (just something about a tube full of oil inside my car makes me nervous) I am building a harness for the gauges so if I need to remove at some point I can just unplug it.

I'm reading that the voltage to these gauges is only 5V to power them. That would be factory gauges, but what about the replacements if I go with all three? Volt meter is obvious, just needs a keyed 12V at the fuse block, but if needed I guess a resistor block could be installed similar to what is used on Chrysler ignition points (or when you've cut out the pink resistor wire and want to go back to points!!), just got to find the right resistance/voltage. I could make up a harness for new wires going to the new sensors without making it look to obvious. I like your idea of using a T to use both gauge and light, but I may still go mechanical on the oil gauge for accuracy, not decided yet though.

Appreciate all the help here,

Geoff.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

Hope this helps.

Do you by any chance have the part # for the Volt gauge? I looked on Summit Racing, but all I saw was 2 or 2 1/16th" gauges, nothing smaller. The one you show looks to be similar in size to the Ford ones.

Can you get back to me on that either here or a PM.

Thanks,

Geoff.

Here's the P/N I used when I bought it from Summit Racing: BGS-FST-7985 $16-ish.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bgs-fst-7985

I had to follow the same directions in that thread I linked to for this gauge as well (same construct as the Sun-Pro used in the thread). It has a real glass face too, so be careful when disassembling it.

 

[Stanglover]

I swapped my factory Ammeter with a Bosch Voltmeter I bought from Summit Racing for about $19. I chose the Bosch gauge because it's a down-sweeper (like the factory gauges).

Hope this helps.

Do you by any chance have the part # for the Volt gauge? I looked on Summit Racing, but all I saw was 2 or 2 1/16th" gauges, nothing smaller. The one you show looks to be similar in size to the Ford ones.

Can you get back to me on that either here or a PM.

Thanks,

Geoff.

Here's the P/N I used when I bought it from Summit Racing: BGS-FST-7985 $16-ish.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bgs-fst-7985

I had to follow the same directions in that thread I linked to for this gauge as well (same construct as the Sun-Pro used in the thread). It has a real glass face too, so be careful when disassembling it.

Awesome, thank you. I did look carefully at the link you posted, good info and easy to follow. I did notice that the Sun-Pro uses the same part number, 7985, so are they the same? I can get Sun-Pro here more easily. I'm in no big rush to get this done, but it's good to know that I can get parts to make it work. I want to recondition all my face-plates first though. I'm looking at a local company that can "chrome" parts and from the samples I've seen, it looks very real. That too is down the road a bit, still too cold here to get too excited!!

I will come back on this later when it's done with pictures and my results.

Thanks again to all who offered tips and tricks. It will help others I'm sure.

Geoff.

 

[Mister 4x4]

You're welcome. Yes - I believe the Sun Pro (as seen in the linked thread) is the same. I was wanting one myself, but I waited too long to get this done, and the Sun Pro gauges were eventually dropped by Summit Racing... so I went with the Bosch unit (I'm a big Summit Racing fan, and if I'm going to have to order something from someone, it might as well be them, rather than a local parts store I have to make two trips to make happen).

What parts are you wanting to chrome? A lot of the folks that re-chrome things like plastic trim pieces, wind up stripping and re-chroming the whole thing, then repainting the rest of the piece (minus the chrome bits) whatever color the rest of the piece will be. They also charge a LOT of money for that (upwards of several hundred dollars for the tiny chrome strips on the plastic dash trim pieces, for instance).

I happen to build scale models, and there are a couple of techniques for achieving chrome on small parts. One is 'bare metal foil,' which is effectively sticky foil that is applied and polished... which is tricky to stick on and get polished without issues. There are some airbrush paints that do a really good job of getting close to chrome, probably the best being Spastix or AllClad, but one of the new things is to use some chrome fingernail polish - it looks like Layla Mirror Effect is one of the best. Lots of the guys on a scale model forums I frequent have used it through their airbrushes with really good results. All of the paint techniques usually require a black base coat, followed by the chrome and maybe or maybe not a clear coat to seal.

Just throwin' out a few ideas.

 

[Stanglover]

You're welcome. Yes - I believe the Sun Pro (as seen in the linked thread) is the same. I was wanting one myself, but I waited too long to get this done, and the Sun Pro gauges were eventually dropped by Summit Racing... so I went with the Bosch unit (I'm a big Summit Racing fan, and if I'm going to have to order something from someone, it might as well be them, rather than a local parts store I have to make two trips to make happen).

What parts are you wanting to chrome? A lot of the folks that re-chrome things like plastic trim pieces, wind up stripping and re-chroming the whole thing, then repainting the rest of the piece (minus the chrome bits) whatever color the rest of the piece will be. They also charge a LOT of money for that (upwards of several hundred dollars for the tiny chrome strips on the plastic dash trim pieces, for instance).

I happen to build scale models, and there are a couple of techniques for achieving chrome on small parts. One is 'bare metal foil,' which is effectively sticky foil that is applied and polished... which is tricky to stick on and get polished without issues. There are some airbrush paints that do a really good job of getting close to chrome, probably the best being Spastix or AllClad, but one of the new things is to use some chrome fingernail polish - it looks like Layla Mirror Effect is one of the best. Lots of the guys on a scale model forums I frequent have used it through their airbrushes with really good results. All of the paint techniques usually require a black base coat, followed by the chrome and maybe or maybe not a clear coat to seal.

Just throwin' out a few ideas.

That is some good info for sure and is appreciated.

Before I go any further on finishing, I can buy Bosch Customline gauges from Amazon.ca. If I get the triple gauge set, they are waaaay cheaper, which as I don't need the mounts anyway, is the way to go and it's free shipping! My one question is though, the water/oil Temp gauge is mechanical. This is good for keeping the ***** lights as well, but how would a mechanical Temp gauge work efficiently?

On the "Chrome finish" I do need to go and talk to the guys and get more info, but it is a paint like process. I may be able to do it myself as there are "chrome" paints on the market, just don't know how good they are. Your suggestion of finger nail polish might be worth looking at too. I do have an air brush..... or at least I had one somewhere.

Some time ago, I bought a "Chrome" touch up paint kit (with black and white paint sticks as well) from a guy on E-bay. All it was, was SILVER paint. That guy heard about it from me!! I will admit though, I have used the paints on other stuff, so it was not a complete waste of money.

If you or anyone else can just answer the Temp gauge question, it would be appreciated.

Thanks again.

Geoff.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I got nuthin' on the water gauge, since all of mine are non-mechanical. I think you're looking at having a water line running through the firewall to the back of the gauge (much like the oil pressure gauge), which could be bad if that line ever fails. I also have to wonder how accurate it would be, considering how far away from the engine itself the gauge actually is and taking into account radiant cooling of the hose over the distance.

Again, though - I'm not entirely sure how a mechanical temp gauge works. Hopefully, one of the other guys with more experience with them will chime in.

And yes - I also hate the "chrome paint" products that come out of the can/bottle as silver paint. It's misleading and waste of time and money.

Here's the AlClad website link. It looks really good to me, but still could be better to be a true 'chrome' representation. http://alclad2.com/

Here's a link to the Spaz Stik stuff: http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/pages/spazstix

Good stuff, but I haven't tried any of it yet, since I still have BMF leftovers and I haven't really gotten too deep back into the small scale stuff, since I'm still working on the full-scale project.

 

[Stanglover]

I got nuthin' on the water gauge, since all of mine are non-mechanical. I think you're looking at having a water line running through the firewall to the back of the gauge (much like the oil pressure gauge), which could be bad if that line ever fails. I also have to wonder how accurate it would be, considering how far away from the engine itself the gauge actually is and taking into account radiant cooling of the hose over the distance.

Again, though - I'm not entirely sure how a mechanical temp gauge works. Hopefully, one of the other guys with more experience with them will chime in.

And yes - I also hate the "chrome paint" products that come out of the can/bottle as silver paint. It's misleading and waste of time and money.

Here's the AlClad website link. It looks really good to me, but still could be better to be a true 'chrome' representation. http://alclad2.com/

Here's a link to the Spaz Stik stuff: http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/pages/spazstix

Good stuff, but I haven't tried any of it yet, since I still have BMF leftovers and I haven't really gotten too deep back into the small scale stuff, since I'm still working on the full-scale project.

Thanks for the links and update.

I decided to order the Bosch set and take a look at it from Amazon.ca. Considering the exchange rate, taxes and costly shipping, I bought all three, free shipping, for less than just volt and oil if I bought them at Summit Racing. Leaking plastic tubes under pressure could be a problem, but I would run the thin tubes inside a larger one to prevent chaffing. These are made for this purpose, so I'm not too worried, just needs a bit of care assembling them. I'm definitely concerned about the water temp gauge, seems a bit strange to me so I'll do some digging into that. I may not use either oil or temp as they depend on what I need to do to install them. I may have to make up a bracket to mount all three, or I may just replace the Volt gauge and leave the factory oil and temp. I'll know more when I get them.

Awesome help Eric, thanks,

Geoff.

 

[Mister 4x4]

My pleasure. Keep us posted with whatever you come up with. It's always neat to see how everybody comes up solutions to these things. ::thumb::

 

[Stanglover]

My pleasure. Keep us posted with whatever you come up with. It's always neat to see how everybody comes up solutions to these things. ::thumb::

Will do. Stay tuned!!