Malwood under dash clutch kit

[giantpune]

Next question -
My car is currently an automatic with power disc brakes. On the pedal support, there is the elongated hole thats supposed to be used for the pivot. On the malwood website, their video shows the pedal pivot with some sort of silver inserts. These inserts are missing on the automatic pedal support.

I did see some instructions for a similar conversion on modern driveline where they were using the scott drake bearing kit. It still had some play in it, so they tack welded it to the pedal support.

How are you guys handling this portion of it? Welding a bearing into place seems kinda gross.
I was thinking maybe cut something to act as a spacer to keep the scott drake bearings from sliding back and forth in the slot.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Next question -
My car is currently an automatic with power disc brakes. On the pedal support, there is the elongated hole thats supposed to be used for the pivot. On the malwood website, their video shows the pedal pivot with some sort of silver inserts. These inserts are missing on the automatic pedal support.

I did see some instructions for a similar conversion on modern driveline where they were using the scott drake bearing kit. It still had some play in it, so they tack welded it to the pedal support.

How are you guys handling this portion of it? Welding a bearing into place seems kinda gross.
I was thinking maybe cut something to act as a spacer to keep the scott drake bearings from sliding back and forth in the slot.

View attachment 80321

I used the Scott drake roller pedal conversion

It had an issue as the washers were too thick to get the clips on. I had the thin them on the belt sander to get the clips on

Then I mounted the Malwood pedal to figure out location and then tack welded the washers. Disassembled and finish welded

 

[rcadd1ct]

Here is a vid of how I thinned the washer.

Thinning washer

 

[giantpune]

I used the Scott drake roller pedal conversion

It had an issue as the washers were too thick to get the clips on. I had the thin them on the belt sander to get the clips on

Then I mounted the Malwood pedal to figure out location and then tack welded the washers. Disassembled and finish welded

What all has to come out in order to pull the pedal support out of the car? It looks like the steering column and the brake master cylinder and brake booster? I was really hoping to avoid that.

If there's even a small chance this can be done without all that, I think I'm stubborn enough to try it.

 

[Tnfastbk]

The only thing I completely removed was the drivers seat and the gauges (I have dakota digital) so I could reach from the top, and the emergency brake pedal along with the vent duct on that side (non ac car) as well. Steering column just loosened so it could be moved around some.

 

[rcadd1ct]

What all has to come out in order to pull the pedal support out of the car? It looks like the steering column and the brake master cylinder and brake booster? I was really hoping to avoid that.

If there's even a small chance this can be done without all that, I think I'm stubborn enough to try it.

Remove steering wheel

Remove gauges (one bolt is up top into pedal box)

Remove seat

Remove pedals

Drop column (use a rope to support it)

Remove pedal box

Malwood says it can be done in the car…I am sure it can be done the second time in the car of a previous stick car, but the conversion from auto to stick seems fiddly

It is worth it though

All of my cussing was directed at the out of spec Scott Drake stuff. Once I had it out for that the rest jus fell in place.

I did trim the pedal box some for clearance and easier access.

I also trimmed to get my pedals to line up so that the clutch ant brake pedal were inline. Sorry, just a little ocd.

 

[giantpune]

Remove steering wheel

Remove gauges (one bolt is up top into pedal box)

Remove seat

Remove pedals

Drop column (use a rope to support it)

Remove pedal box

Malwood says it can be done in the car…I am sure it can be done the second time in the car of a previous stick car, but the conversion from auto to stick seems fiddly

It is worth it though

All of my cussing was directed at the out of spec Scott Drake stuff. Once I had it out for that the rest jus fell in place.

I did trim the pedal box some for clearance and easier access.

I also trimmed to get my pedals to line up so that the clutch ant brake pedal were inline. Sorry, just a little ocd.

So the brake master cylinder and booster can stay in place? It looks like the pedal support is bolted to the firewall with the heads of those bolts hidden between the brake booster and firewall.

 

[tony-muscle]

Although it may sound daunting it is not. Remove the pedal bracket and it will make it easier to weld. You don't need to remove the booster but just remove the nuts.

 

[Tnfastbk]

Remove steering wheel

Remove gauges (one bolt is up top into pedal box)

Remove seat

Remove pedals

Drop column (use a rope to support it)

Remove pedal box

Malwood says it can be done in the car…I am sure it can be done the second time in the car of a previous stick car, but the conversion from auto to stick seems fiddly

It is worth it though

All of my cussing was directed at the out of spec Scott Drake stuff. Once I had it out for that the rest jus fell in place.

I did trim the pedal box some for clearance and easier access.

I also trimmed to get my pedals to line up so that the clutch ant brake pedal were inline. Sorry, just a little ocd.

Mine was a factory four speed car so that may have helped.

 

[rcadd1ct]

So the brake master cylinder and booster can stay in place? It looks like the pedal support is bolted to the firewall with the heads of those bolts hidden between the brake booster and firewall.

Yes

Disconnect brake linkage

four booster nuts

Sometimes there are two sheet metal screws in between the booster nuts

There is one bolt from the top by the gauges

One other mention of importance. You will need to either cut your brake pedal to be like a manual transmission pedal or source one. They are not repopped. I was able to convert my non power brake with a Leeds pivot shaft conversion that came with my brake booster kit. I think they sell it separately.

 

[giantpune]

Ok, so I finished up getting my malwood kit installed this morning. My car is a 73 with power disc brakes. I was able to complete the install without removing the pedal support from the car. I slid the driver's seat back. Steering column was already dropped a couple inches, hanging by the mounting nuts. And the cluster was already removed.

First thing I notice is the whole scott drake roller bearing kit is a huge waste of time and effort. With a power brake car, the only thing that we use those 2 elongated holes for is to clamp the malwood clutch to the pedal support. There is nothing that needs to hang from nor rotate on the new bolt. So zero use for the roller bearings. What we are doing is welding a washer to the pedal support to turn the elongated holes into smaller round holes. The same thing can be accomplished with a couple $0.15 washers from the hardware row at lowes, if you can find one with the correct center diameter. Anyways, I already had the kit cause I thought it was required and I went through the effort to install it before it dawned on me that it was silly.

After that, I had a little issue with the fitment of the malwood setup. It wouldnt physically fit on my pedal support. Part of the pedal wants to occupy the same space as part of the pedal support. I was able to cut out a little square off the left side of the pedal support with an angle grinder to make some clearance.









Make sure you have the correct hydraulic lines. The one that came with the kit was not the correct one to work with my slave cylinder. I got a 30" braided one with the right ends on it. I ran the line for the reservoir through the same grommet as the main wiring harness. And I ran the line to the slave cylinder out through the steering column hole.