Moog upper control arm

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Phisto

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
Messages
10
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0
Location
Colorado
My Car
'71 Mustang Mach 1
2nd owner since 1976
sat in dad's garage for 34 years, slowly restoring it but still runs great
Has anyone on experienced this? I'm part way into the drudgery task of replacing front suspension on '71 Mach 1. I purchased the Moog RK621369 Upper Control Arm Assembly, and the bolts that fit into the chassis (engine bay) are too short to thread a nut onto. Bolts in my old upper control arm were longer, but I cannot interchange the bolts because they're pressed in. Moog says this is the right part. Dangit, I'm stuck. Any advice from the good 71/73 people here?



 
Just get replacement bolts. I believe they simply slide out of the tubular cross-piece. We had to do that on a friend's 66 Mustang to get the caster/camber correct. We never did find out why the standard length bolts did not work.

 
Just get replacement bolts.  I believe they simply slide out of the tubular cross-piece. We had to do that on a friend's 66 Mustang to get the caster/camber correct.  We never did find out why the standard length bolts did not work.
How'd you get the bolts out? these are pressed in, and I fear damaging the control arm if I use the BIG hammer on them.

 
If they are swedged, use a hammer on the threaded in and put the head side inside a socket, much like removing a u-joint from a yoke.

 
If they are swedged, use a hammer on the threaded in and put the head side inside a socket, much like removing a u-joint from a yoke.
yep, wasn't as difficult as I made it out in my head to be.  Got the upper in. . . now wrestling with the coil spring! such fun!.  thx for the tips.

 
i know your pain.. i did a complete susp on my '66 fairlane yrs ago.. spring on pass side dropped right in... the drivers side was manufactured by the devil.. took an hour and extra hands.

 
You should be using a coil spring compressor to put the springs in. DO NOT use air wrench to run the compressor bolt up and down can cause big issues. Your local parts supplier should have them to borrow. It is not difficult at all if you have the right tools.

It is odd that they went to a much shorter bolt for no reason.

David

 
You should be using a coil spring compressor to put the springs in. DO NOT use air wrench to run the compressor bolt up and down can cause big issues. Your local parts supplier should have them to borrow. It is not difficult at all if you have the right tools.

It is odd that they went to a much shorter bolt for no reason.

David
yep, thanks. I borrowed a coil spring compressor from Adv Auto to remove - still scary. But, I've found getting the spring seated on the perch to be less than accommodating. I'm on my third pass at it - and I've only tackled the driver's side so far. Definitely testing my patience though. Thx

 
You should be using a coil spring compressor to put the springs in. DO NOT use air wrench to run the compressor bolt up and down can cause big issues. Your local parts supplier should have them to borrow. It is not difficult at all if you have the right tools.

It is odd that they went to a much shorter bolt for no reason.

David
yep, thanks. I borrowed a coil spring compressor from Adv Auto to remove - still scary. But, I've found getting the spring seated on the perch to be less than accommodating. I'm on my third pass at it - and I've only tackled the driver's side so far. Definitely testing my patience though. Thx
Funny how I always found it safer to leave the coil spring alone and let the shock keep it in place.  I remove the upper spindle connection at the ball joint and drop the spindle out of the way.  Remove the 2 spring perch bolts and the two shock tower nuts and the upper arm will slide out/.  Yes.  It is supposedly safer to use the spring compressor but this has always worked for me

 
I guess when most are in that deep they usually pull the whole front suspension apart and do a rebuild.

The springs do have a pretty hefty pre load on them.

I cautioned to not use air impact because I know someone that was having issues keeping the clamp fingers spaced correct and had ran the screw up and down several times. The threads seized up and spun the fingers when he was taking the compressor out and the spring flew out hit pavement and bounced over 300 feet over the building and landed in a field. Would have killed him if it hit him.

I put a piece of plywood over when I am taking the tool off the springs when not going back in.

David

 
When using the spring compressor, take a few minutes and install some small hose clamps on the upward side of the coil wire once you have the fingers positioned. They will prevent the compressor fingers from sliding.

 
+1 on David's recommendation to NOT use an impact wrench on spring compressors. I don't like using them on gear pullers or engine hoist equalizers/tilters, either.

I prefer the this type of spring compressor:

http://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html
I have that one as well. Works great.
I rebuilt my '72 front end as well, everything but the drag link. I have a spring compressor hanging in my garage that if I EVER use again will be too soon. Mine was an internal one, bought new, with the fingers used on the inside. Nothing like sitting in the wheel well with the spring compressed and inches from your head, and you are trying to get it set in, then needing a couple more turns to get that last fraction inch of compression.

I only bring this up because I remember the "fun" I had and all the videos I watched. Good job!

 
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