My 1973 project daily driver

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Time flies when you are waiting on parts and traveling for work.
Quick update.
Talked to the machine shop they hope to have my crankshaft balanced next week. My oil pan and rockers got discontinued by Jegs so I have to get different ones. Still trying to find a good oil pan.
Still need a clutch kit and a single plane intake.
Still hope to have the engine running and in the car this July, keep your fingers crossed.
I used to have an intake. Let me look around this weekend and see if I can find it.
 

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I know I'm late to the party but I am running the ATI Rattler Harmonic balancer on my 408. Fly wheel was SFI approved when bought. I had a cheaper balancer to start with and had issues with it. ATI was way more expensive at the time but seems to be worth it.
The Rattler damper is actually by TCI. ATI makes a conventional damper. Both are good items.
 
The Rattler damper is actually by TCI. ATI makes a conventional damper. Both are good items.
You are correct, thanks for making that clear. Another one is innovators west, they look pretty nice and have a lot of options as well.
My top three were TCI (not ATI) rattler , fluid damper and innovators west. I went with the fluid damper for longevity as the fluid takes longer to break down. In reality I doubt I would wear out any of them to the point I would need to rebuild them. Price and availability also came in to help make the decision.
 
Just got my block and my balanced crankshaft back! Time to recheck all clearances and start assembly!
Remember to squirt a bit of silicone INTO the pin hole (image #6615). Wipe smooth any overflow silicone that builds above either side machined rubber sealing surface.on the cap. While many times oil won't seep thru an unsealed pin hole don't roll the dice, seal it up!!
 
In the old days Ford used a rope seal instead of today's "Rubber" material. The hole actually contained a pointed pin that captured the rope seal preventing it's migrating out of place. Today's rubber seals do not/ can not use the rope pin, thus it must be sealed to close this leak path.
 
Remember to squirt a bit of silicone INTO the pin hole (image #6615). Wipe smooth any overflow silicone that builds above either side machined rubber sealing surface.on the cap. While many times oil won't seep thru an unsealed pin hole don't roll the dice, seal it up!!
Thank you, I would have missed that. Here’s to all the fun of assembling check one thing, disassemble, to assemble, check something else, disassemble, did I write that down? Reassemble check, disassemble.
Getting old sucks , but at least I am getting back into the grove of things again!
 
Wow did not realize how much time has gone by since my last update.
I have a clearance issue on my girdle that I have not had time to fix with work. I am out of town on work for the next month or so. Will have to get back to it in October.
 
Wow almost end of the year. Still working on the car. Got my induction system figured out and now rebuilding the carburetors. Had my first oil pan get canceled now have this new one. I will keep trucking along.
 

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Wow almost end of the year. Still working on the car. Got my induction system figured out and now rebuilding the carburetors. Had my first oil pan get canceled now have this new one. I will keep trucking along.
What intake are those Demons sitting on? Nice looking oil pan, how many quarts?
 
What intake are those Demons sitting on? Nice looking oil pan, how many quarts?
The intake is a speed master 3v mid rise intake dual 4.
The oil pain is a 7 quart unit from speed master it a new unit and replaced the aluminum one they offered.
I haven’t fit the oil pan yet I will give an update on these when I get them mounted.
 
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