My 351C does not like premium oil filters

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I know priming the oil filter before installation is an age-old "good idea" and most gearheads are pretty religious about doing so but there is no evidence that it makes any difference. No car manufacturer stipulates that the filter be primed before installation, and no filter manufacturer recommends it either. It just doesn't make any real difference. An engine could easily be started and idled for many seconds, sometimes even a few minutes with NO OIL in the pan, usually without any undue wear or damage.

The viscosity of the oil is exactly why: it clings to the inner friction surfaces and provides plenty of lubrication until the oil pump and the entire oil system has had adequate time to pressurize the system.

I have done literally thousands and thousands of oil changes over the years on every type of car or LD truck imagineable...never have I primed a filter and never have I seen a problem.

My Mustang's original engine went over 330,000 miles before a rebuild...never primed the filter, never had an issue.

It is mostly just a "peace of mind" thing for those that get an extra measure of satisfaction knowing/ thinking they have done everything to increase thier engine's life.

 
The only evidence I can give you that it might make a difference is the engine doesn't rattle on startup when I prime the filter. Maybe it doesn't help but it sure doesn't hurt.

 
Have you considered cutting the used filter? If you suspect the oil is what remained when you primed it, then the oil and filter material would show little discoloration or debris. If the filter was working and allowing oil circulation, it shouldn't look new.

 
After I run the Fram for a bit I will take it apart. The next filter I am going to try is a genuine motorcraft.

I tossed the used K&N so it may be gone.

Here is a picture of a 'top bypass' filters operation. I 'believe', perhaps incorrectly, that the K&N and Mobil 1 stayed in bypass mode (on the right) and never actually filtered the oil. This would explain why they are not almost full when I remove them.

OF-diagram-300x129.jpg


If someone has an alternate explanation I would love to hear it.

 
Wherever you got that illustration from, it is incorrect. The bypass valve is at the bottom, closed end of the can, not the top. The bypass is simply a spring or a piece of spring-steel designed to flex at a predetermined pressure, which pulls the center tube bottom plate slightly downward toward the center of the can allowing oil to bypass around the end of the center tube (instead of through the element and through the tube's perforations). This allows oil to continue through the engine, albeit unfiltered. +

It is not possible for the filter to go into bypass mode until the entire filter is full of oil and pressurized. When the botton plate/spring's resistance is overcome due to excessive pressure, only then can it go into bypass mode.

That is why guys with high-pressure oil pumps should run a Ford HP-1 version filter of the famed Ford FL-1A. The HP-1 has a higher prressure setting before going into bypass mode. Otherwise the high pressure from the oil pump will override the standard filter's bypass under normal operation and you will have continuously unfiltered (or partially filtered) oil.

 
Last edited:
Sorry Kit. I have spent a dozen hours or so of reading and there are two types. Top bypass and bottom bypass. In post #6 of this thread I included a video where the guy takes both kinds apart.

Also included was this site:

http://billhughes.com/mirror/oilfilterstudy.htm

It identifies if a filter is 'top' or 'bottom' bypass.

 
Will, you are correct, there are filters that bypass oil from the bottom of the tube, up through the middle...and there are others that will allow the oil to bypass directly underneath the baseplate at the top of the filter.

I would tend to agree that directly under the baseplate may be partially and slightly more beneficial in some respects, but it costs more to build them that way, which is why that style is typically on premium-priced filters.

However...you are making a fundamental error in your understanding of how the bypass functions in either filter: The oil filter MUST BE FULL OF OIL and the pressure rating must then be exceeded BEFORE the bypass valve can open and go into bypass mode, in both the top bypass as well as the bottom bypass style of filter. The spring plate or spring is still at the bottom of the can, but it makes no difference no matter where it is...pressure builds equally in a closed system.

Without trying to sound too harsh, I would not place a lot of confidence on that video's presenter. He makes several dubious and specious observations about the quality of the filter's components. For instance, he takes care to point out that the Fram filter's anti-drain back valve is hard and brittle and probably would not be effective at it's function. I agree. He then states that this used oil filter has sat under his bench in his workshop for SEVEN YEARS. Of course the components are going to exhibit some severe degradation at that point. And he then shows the hard, fossilized remnants of carbon imbedded in the filter pleats...stating that these could break off of the filter media in by-pass mode and possibly cause a spun bearing or some such catastrophe.

I agree: If anyone was to take a 7-year old USED oil filter and install it on thier vehicle and start driving they have a high likelihood of substantial engine probelms.

Of course, NONE of these filters is designed to be used in that manner, so the point he makes is totally without merit or value in any reasonable situation.

In several instances, instead of competently explaining a somewhat technical point, he instead covers it by saying "blah, blah, blah"...which is hardly informative.

He is the kind of guy who probably has a pretty good level of experience in automotive mechanics and is more interested than most in the functions of different systems...but he fills his opinions with rhetoric and assumptions and then draws false conclusions based on "ratty data".

The point is: On either type of filter, it is not possible for the filter to remain empty or partially filled with oil (rendering it not completely pressurized) and to then also have the bypass valve open up.


Many years ago (in 2005), I was priveleged to be included in a group of consultants to ExxonMobil Corp. The project had many components, but I was involved in only two of them.

One of them was based predominently on my recommendation that Mobil 1 oil be offered in a new "Classic Car" formula. The then-new GF-4 standards for PCMO dictated an extremely lowered amount of ZDDP in current PCMO. This resulted in (as we all know by now) many engines, freshly or recently rebuilt, or just well-taken-care-off older original engines...ending up with wiped cam lobes and galled lifters.

The lowered zinc content in GF-4 just did not provide adequate sacrificial-barrier protection. My suggestion was to have a non-compliance "Classic Car" formula with adequate levels of ZDDP for use in cars not regulated under new-car guidelines. ExxonMobil's stance was that there was too much possibility of average consumers installing non-approved oil in newer vehicles, thus violating government standards.

Thier eventual solution was to develop a "High Mileage" version that was was higher in ZDDP (not as high as I suggested), yet still not so high as to cause issues in modern vehicles.

The other project was funded by one (or maybe more) of the auto manufacturers (they would not divulge who) that were contemplating some type of system that would alert the driver of the vehicle when his oil filter was operating under bypass mode. This would ostensibly encourage the driver to get more frequent oil changes once the frequency of bypass mode operation reached or exceeded a determined level.

This of course was met with several probelms, the foremeost being that the typical consumer has no real idea what that means or why it affects him. And the typical driver ceratinly does not want to take the time and effort to find out why this is beneficial to his engine.

So, it was then proposed to simply add the function to the car's computer programming to further assist in when to light up the generic "service vehcile soon " or "Change oil now" light.

Then, of course...the actual cost of installing the system on OEM vehicles was considered. Typical screw-on can-style filters were immediatly ruled out as not a viable system to impleament such an idea, for obvious reasons.

That left canister-style filters as the only alternative to consider, but the cost vs rewards analysis was still too far out of whack, so they "tabled" the whole project...and that was the end of my involvement!

It is a viable idea, so with the advancement in technology and ever-more restrictive regulations it may well have its day in the sun.

 
Last edited:
I agree with your analysis of the video overall. Mostly I was confirming the concept that there are different bypass valves. Some on the bottom, some on the top. So I think we are on the same page.

When in bypass mode: The top style bypass prevents oil from entering the filter and medium at all. It basically routes right back to the engine. The bottom style bypass allows oil to flow to the bottom and when in bypass mode opens a valve that allows the oil to flow back up through the center.

In non-bypass mode: The top style bypass 'closes' and the oil is sent down the sides, through the medium and then back up the center. The bottom style bypass, when closed, keeps the fluid from coming up from the bottom and it is therefore pass through the medium.

The filter orientation on a 351c isn't vertical but it is at an angle that would allow most of the oil to remain in the filter, even when the engine is off.

So when I remove a used filter from my 351c and it only has a small amount of oil in it and it is a 'top bypass' filter I have to wonder if it ever went out of bypass mode.

Certainly with an empty filter the pressure difference would allow the filter to get filled first, then if cold enough to not pass through the medium the pressure difference would put it into bypass mode until the oil warmed up.

I will run the fram for a while and then I will take it apart and see if I can determine if the oil ever passed through the medium.

I will put another K/N back on and run it till it gets warmed up, drive it around for a while and then remove the filter to see if there is oil in it. I will install it 'empty'. I will also take it apart.

Finally, I am adding a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my engine today. My stock gauge reads that I am in the normal range. I would like to confirm actual pressures.

 
Hi i am so glad for that it's Now bind told hear on This site [WINKING FACE] Wee have bind added the ZDDP in the last 5 years. Because off My freind Jens had some problem whit the Cams! And i just put 4 buttels in the engine. Regards Lars

Regards DK73

 
I hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. It's 40 at idle (park) and warm. The gauge is under the hood so I can't see how much fluctuation I get while driving. I used the standard port at the back. It's a 'cheap' gauge so it may not be super accurate.

So lack of decent oil pressure doesn't seem to be causing my concern. If I have 40 PSI it should be able to overcome the bypass valve.

So I am more curious why my top bypass oil filters don't fill with oil.

 
My K&N oil filter is always full of oil, about a quart.
Thanks for the input. yeah, that is what I would expect too. Can you provide details on oil, weight and oil pressure you are seeing?

Do you prime the filter as full as you can get it or do you put it on completely empty?
Oil is dino Valvoline VR1 racing oil 10W-30.

I don't prime the filter, just a little oil on the rubber gasket.

Oil pressure gauge is stock so no numbers, but it runs about

90% of scale (between notches) when warmed up. Rebuilt

engine has less than 5000 miles on it.

mike

 
Will, you are correct, there are filters that bypass oil from the bottom of the tube, up through the middle...and there are others that will allow the oil to bypass directly underneath the baseplate at the top of the filter.

I would tend to agree that directly under the baseplate may be partially and slightly more beneficial in some respects, but it costs more to build them that way, which is why that style is typically on premium-priced filters.

However...you are making a fundamental error in your understanding of how the bypass functions in either filter: The oil filter MUST BE FULL OF OIL and the pressure rating must then be exceeded BEFORE the bypass valve can open and go into bypass mode, in both the top bypass as well as the bottom bypass style of filter. The spring plate or spring is still at the bottom of the can, but it makes no difference no matter where it is...pressure builds equally in a closed system.

Without trying to sound too harsh, I would not place a lot of confidence on that video's presenter. He makes several dubious and specious observations about the quality of the filter's components. For instance, he takes care to point out that the Fram filter's anti-drain back valve is hard and brittle and probably would not be effective at it's function. I agree. He then states that this used oil filter has sat under his bench in his workshop for SEVEN YEARS. Of course the components are going to exhibit some severe degradation at that point. And he then shows the hard, fossilized remnants of carbon imbedded in the filter pleats...stating that these could break off of the filter media in by-pass mode and possibly cause a spun bearing or some such catastrophe.

I agree: If anyone was to take a 7-year old USED oil filter and install it on thier vehicle and start driving they have a high likelihood of substantial engine probelms.

Of course, NONE of these filters is designed to be used in that manner, so the point he makes is totally without merit or value in any reasonable situation.

In several instances, instead of competently explaining a somewhat technical point, he instead covers it by saying "blah, blah, blah"...which is hardly informative.

He is the kind of guy who probably has a pretty good level of experience in automotive mechanics and is more interested than most in the functions of different systems...but he fills his opinions with rhetoric and assumptions and then draws false conclusions based on "ratty data".

The point is: On either type of filter, it is not possible for the filter to remain empty or partially filled with oil (rendering it not completely pressurized) and to then also have the bypass valve open up.


Many years ago (in 2005), I was priveleged to be included in a group of consultants to ExxonMobil Corp. The project had many components, but I was involved in only two of them.

One of them was based predominently on my recommendation that Mobil 1 oil be offered in a new "Classic Car" formula. The then-new GF-4 standards for PCMO dictated an extremely lowered amount of ZDDP in current PCMO. This resulted in (as we all know by now) many engines, freshly or recently rebuilt, or just well-taken-care-off older original engines...ending up with wiped cam lobes and galled lifters.

The lowered zinc content in GF-4 just did not provide adequate sacrificial-barrier protection. My suggestion was to have a non-compliance "Classic Car" formula with adequate levels of ZDDP for use in cars not regulated under new-car guidelines. ExxonMobil's stance was that there was too much possibility of average consumers installing non-approved oil in newer vehicles, thus violating government standards.

Thier eventual solution was to develop a "High Mileage" version that was was higher in ZDDP (not as high as I suggested), yet still not so high as to cause issues in modern vehicles.

The other project was funded by one (or maybe more) of the auto manufacturers (they would not divulge who) that were contemplating some type of system that would alert the driver of the vehicle when his oil filter was operating under bypass mode. This would ostensibly encourage the driver to get more frequent oil changes once the frequency of bypass mode operation reached or exceeded a determined level.

This of course was met with several probelms, the foremeost being that the typical consumer has no real idea what that means or why it affects him. And the typical driver ceratinly does not want to take the time and effort to find out why this is beneficial to his engine.

So, it was then proposed to simply add the function to the car's computer programming to further assist in when to light up the generic "service vehcile soon " or "Change oil now" light.

Then, of course...the actual cost of installing the system on OEM vehicles was considered. Typical screw-on can-style filters were immediatly ruled out as not a viable system to impleament such an idea, for obvious reasons.

That left canister-style filters as the only alternative to consider, but the cost vs rewards analysis was still too far out of whack, so they "tabled" the whole project...and that was the end of my involvement!

It is a viable idea, so with the advancement in technology and ever-more restrictive regulations it may well have its day in the sun.
Just to continue with what you are saying there are 2 kinds of oil available for classic cars that I know of 1. Hemmings Motor News motor oil, 2.Brad Penn Grade high performance oil. Both contain high levels of zinc. Not recommended for cars with catalytic converters.scan0001.jpgscan0002.jpg



Will, you are correct, there are filters that bypass oil from the bottom of the tube, up through the middle...and there are others that will allow the oil to bypass directly underneath the baseplate at the top of the filter.

I would tend to agree that directly under the baseplate may be partially and slightly more beneficial in some respects, but it costs more to build them that way, which is why that style is typically on premium-priced filters.

However...you are making a fundamental error in your understanding of how the bypass functions in either filter: The oil filter MUST BE FULL OF OIL and the pressure rating must then be exceeded BEFORE the bypass valve can open and go into bypass mode, in both the top bypass as well as the bottom bypass style of filter. The spring plate or spring is still at the bottom of the can, but it makes no difference no matter where it is...pressure builds equally in a closed system.

Without trying to sound too harsh, I would not place a lot of confidence on that video's presenter. He makes several dubious and specious observations about the quality of the filter's components. For instance, he takes care to point out that the Fram filter's anti-drain back valve is hard and brittle and probably would not be effective at it's function. I agree. He then states that this used oil filter has sat under his bench in his workshop for SEVEN YEARS. Of course the components are going to exhibit some severe degradation at that point. And he then shows the hard, fossilized remnants of carbon imbedded in the filter pleats...stating that these could break off of the filter media in by-pass mode and possibly cause a spun bearing or some such catastrophe.

I agree: If anyone was to take a 7-year old USED oil filter and install it on thier vehicle and start driving they have a high likelihood of substantial engine probelms.

Of course, NONE of these filters is designed to be used in that manner, so the point he makes is totally without merit or value in any reasonable situation.

In several instances, instead of competently explaining a somewhat technical point, he instead covers it by saying "blah, blah, blah"...which is hardly informative.

He is the kind of guy who probably has a pretty good level of experience in automotive mechanics and is more interested than most in the functions of different systems...but he fills his opinions with rhetoric and assumptions and then draws false conclusions based on "ratty data".

The point is: On either type of filter, it is not possible for the filter to remain empty or partially filled with oil (rendering it not completely pressurized) and to then also have the bypass valve open up.


Many years ago (in 2005), I was priveleged to be included in a group of consultants to ExxonMobil Corp. The project had many components, but I was involved in only two of them.

One of them was based predominently on my recommendation that Mobil 1 oil be offered in a new "Classic Car" formula. The then-new GF-4 standards for PCMO dictated an extremely lowered amount of ZDDP in current PCMO. This resulted in (as we all know by now) many engines, freshly or recently rebuilt, or just well-taken-care-off older original engines...ending up with wiped cam lobes and galled lifters.

The lowered zinc content in GF-4 just did not provide adequate sacrificial-barrier protection. My suggestion was to have a non-compliance "Classic Car" formula with adequate levels of ZDDP for use in cars not regulated under new-car guidelines. ExxonMobil's stance was that there was too much possibility of average consumers installing non-approved oil in newer vehicles, thus violating government standards.

Thier eventual solution was to develop a "High Mileage" version that was was higher in ZDDP (not as high as I suggested), yet still not so high as to cause issues in modern vehicles.

The other project was funded by one (or maybe more) of the auto manufacturers (they would not divulge who) that were contemplating some type of system that would alert the driver of the vehicle when his oil filter was operating under bypass mode. This would ostensibly encourage the driver to get more frequent oil changes once the frequency of bypass mode operation reached or exceeded a determined level.

This of course was met with several probelms, the foremeost being that the typical consumer has no real idea what that means or why it affects him. And the typical driver ceratinly does not want to take the time and effort to find out why this is beneficial to his engine.

So, it was then proposed to simply add the function to the car's computer programming to further assist in when to light up the generic "service vehcile soon " or "Change oil now" light.

Then, of course...the actual cost of installing the system on OEM vehicles was considered. Typical screw-on can-style filters were immediatly ruled out as not a viable system to impleament such an idea, for obvious reasons.

That left canister-style filters as the only alternative to consider, but the cost vs rewards analysis was still too far out of whack, so they "tabled" the whole project...and that was the end of my involvement!

It is a viable idea, so with the advancement in technology and ever-more restrictive regulations it may well have its day in the sun.
Just to continue with what you are saying there are 2 kinds of oil available for classic cars that I know of 1. Hemmings Motor News motor oil, 2.Brad Penn Grade high performance oil. Both contain high levels of zinc. Not recommended for cars with catalytic converters.

scan0003.jpg

My K&N oil filter is always full of oil, about a quart.
Thanks for the input. yeah, that is what I would expect too. Can you provide details on oil, weight and oil pressure you are seeing?

Do you prime the filter as full as you can get it or do you put it on completely empty?
Oil is dino Valvoline VR1 racing oil 10W-30.

I don't prime the filter, just a little oil on the rubber gasket.

Oil pressure gauge is stock so no numbers, but it runs about

90% of scale (between notches) when warmed up. Rebuilt

engine has less than 5000 miles on it.

mike

scan0004.jpg

Will, you are correct, there are filters that bypass oil from the bottom of the tube, up through the middle...and there are others that will allow the oil to bypass directly underneath the baseplate at the top of the filter.

I would tend to agree that directly under the baseplate may be partially and slightly more beneficial in some respects, but it costs more to build them that way, which is why that style is typically on premium-priced filters.

However...you are making a fundamental error in your understanding of how the bypass functions in either filter: The oil filter MUST BE FULL OF OIL and the pressure rating must then be exceeded BEFORE the bypass valve can open and go into bypass mode, in both the top bypass as well as the bottom bypass style of filter. The spring plate or spring is still at the bottom of the can, but it makes no difference no matter where it is...pressure builds equally in a closed system.

Without trying to sound too harsh, I would not place a lot of confidence on that video's presenter. He makes several dubious and specious observations about the quality of the filter's components. For instance, he takes care to point out that the Fram filter's anti-drain back valve is hard and brittle and probably would not be effective at it's function. I agree. He then states that this used oil filter has sat under his bench in his workshop for SEVEN YEARS. Of course the components are going to exhibit some severe degradation at that point. And he then shows the hard, fossilized remnants of carbon imbedded in the filter pleats...stating that these could break off of the filter media in by-pass mode and possibly cause a spun bearing or some such catastrophe.

I agree: If anyone was to take a 7-year old USED oil filter and install it on thier vehicle and start driving they have a high likelihood of substantial engine probelms.

Of course, NONE of these filters is designed to be used in that manner, so the point he makes is totally without merit or value in any reasonable situation.

In several instances, instead of competently explaining a somewhat technical point, he instead covers it by saying "blah, blah, blah"...which is hardly informative.

He is the kind of guy who probably has a pretty good level of experience in automotive mechanics and is more interested than most in the functions of different systems...but he fills his opinions with rhetoric and assumptions and then draws false conclusions based on "ratty data".

The point is: On either type of filter, it is not possible for the filter to remain empty or partially filled with oil (rendering it not completely pressurized) and to then also have the bypass valve open up.


Many years ago (in 2005), I was priveleged to be included in a group of consultants to ExxonMobil Corp. The project had many components, but I was involved in only two of them.

One of them was based predominently on my recommendation that Mobil 1 oil be offered in a new "Classic Car" formula. The then-new GF-4 standards for PCMO dictated an extremely lowered amount of ZDDP in current PCMO. This resulted in (as we all know by now) many engines, freshly or recently rebuilt, or just well-taken-care-off older original engines...ending up with wiped cam lobes and galled lifters.

The lowered zinc content in GF-4 just did not provide adequate sacrificial-barrier protection. My suggestion was to have a non-compliance "Classic Car" formula with adequate levels of ZDDP for use in cars not regulated under new-car guidelines. ExxonMobil's stance was that there was too much possibility of average consumers installing non-approved oil in newer vehicles, thus violating government standards.

Thier eventual solution was to develop a "High Mileage" version that was was higher in ZDDP (not as high as I suggested), yet still not so high as to cause issues in modern vehicles.

The other project was funded by one (or maybe more) of the auto manufacturers (they would not divulge who) that were contemplating some type of system that would alert the driver of the vehicle when his oil filter was operating under bypass mode. This would ostensibly encourage the driver to get more frequent oil changes once the frequency of bypass mode operation reached or exceeded a determined level.

This of course was met with several probelms, the foremeost being that the typical consumer has no real idea what that means or why it affects him. And the typical driver ceratinly does not want to take the time and effort to find out why this is beneficial to his engine.

So, it was then proposed to simply add the function to the car's computer programming to further assist in when to light up the generic "service vehcile soon " or "Change oil now" light.

Then, of course...the actual cost of installing the system on OEM vehicles was considered. Typical screw-on can-style filters were immediatly ruled out as not a viable system to impleament such an idea, for obvious reasons.

That left canister-style filters as the only alternative to consider, but the cost vs rewards analysis was still too far out of whack, so they "tabled" the whole project...and that was the end of my involvement!

It is a viable idea, so with the advancement in technology and ever-more restrictive regulations it may well have its day in the sun.
Just to continue with what you are saying there are 2 kinds of oil available for classic cars that I know of 1. Hemmings Motor News motor oil, 2.Brad Penn Grade high performance oil. Both contain high levels of zinc. Not recommended for cars with catalytic converters.



Will, you are correct, there are filters that bypass oil from the bottom of the tube, up through the middle...and there are others that will allow the oil to bypass directly underneath the baseplate at the top of the filter.

I would tend to agree that directly under the baseplate may be partially and slightly more beneficial in some respects, but it costs more to build them that way, which is why that style is typically on premium-priced filters.

However...you are making a fundamental error in your understanding of how the bypass functions in either filter: The oil filter MUST BE FULL OF OIL and the pressure rating must then be exceeded BEFORE the bypass valve can open and go into bypass mode, in both the top bypass as well as the bottom bypass style of filter. The spring plate or spring is still at the bottom of the can, but it makes no difference no matter where it is...pressure builds equally in a closed system.

Without trying to sound too harsh, I would not place a lot of confidence on that video's presenter. He makes several dubious and specious observations about the quality of the filter's components. For instance, he takes care to point out that the Fram filter's anti-drain back valve is hard and brittle and probably would not be effective at it's function. I agree. He then states that this used oil filter has sat under his bench in his workshop for SEVEN YEARS. Of course the components are going to exhibit some severe degradation at that point. And he then shows the hard, fossilized remnants of carbon imbedded in the filter pleats...stating that these could break off of the filter media in by-pass mode and possibly cause a spun bearing or some such catastrophe.

I agree: If anyone was to take a 7-year old USED oil filter and install it on thier vehicle and start driving they have a high likelihood of substantial engine probelms.

Of course, NONE of these filters is designed to be used in that manner, so the point he makes is totally without merit or value in any reasonable situation.

In several instances, instead of competently explaining a somewhat technical point, he instead covers it by saying "blah, blah, blah"...which is hardly informative.

He is the kind of guy who probably has a pretty good level of experience in automotive mechanics and is more interested than most in the functions of different systems...but he fills his opinions with rhetoric and assumptions and then draws false conclusions based on "ratty data".

The point is: On either type of filter, it is not possible for the filter to remain empty or partially filled with oil (rendering it not completely pressurized) and to then also have the bypass valve open up.


Many years ago (in 2005), I was priveleged to be included in a group of consultants to ExxonMobil Corp. The project had many components, but I was involved in only two of them.

One of them was based predominently on my recommendation that Mobil 1 oil be offered in a new "Classic Car" formula. The then-new GF-4 standards for PCMO dictated an extremely lowered amount of ZDDP in current PCMO. This resulted in (as we all know by now) many engines, freshly or recently rebuilt, or just well-taken-care-off older original engines...ending up with wiped cam lobes and galled lifters.

The lowered zinc content in GF-4 just did not provide adequate sacrificial-barrier protection. My suggestion was to have a non-compliance "Classic Car" formula with adequate levels of ZDDP for use in cars not regulated under new-car guidelines. ExxonMobil's stance was that there was too much possibility of average consumers installing non-approved oil in newer vehicles, thus violating government standards.

Thier eventual solution was to develop a "High Mileage" version that was was higher in ZDDP (not as high as I suggested), yet still not so high as to cause issues in modern vehicles.

The other project was funded by one (or maybe more) of the auto manufacturers (they would not divulge who) that were contemplating some type of system that would alert the driver of the vehicle when his oil filter was operating under bypass mode. This would ostensibly encourage the driver to get more frequent oil changes once the frequency of bypass mode operation reached or exceeded a determined level.

This of course was met with several probelms, the foremeost being that the typical consumer has no real idea what that means or why it affects him. And the typical driver ceratinly does not want to take the time and effort to find out why this is beneficial to his engine.

So, it was then proposed to simply add the function to the car's computer programming to further assist in when to light up the generic "service vehcile soon " or "Change oil now" light.

Then, of course...the actual cost of installing the system on OEM vehicles was considered. Typical screw-on can-style filters were immediatly ruled out as not a viable system to impleament such an idea, for obvious reasons.

That left canister-style filters as the only alternative to consider, but the cost vs rewards analysis was still too far out of whack, so they "tabled" the whole project...and that was the end of my involvement!

It is a viable idea, so with the advancement in technology and ever-more restrictive regulations it may well have its day in the sun.
Just to continue with what you are saying there are 2 kinds of oil available for classic cars that I know of 1. Hemmings Motor News motor oil, 2.Brad Penn Grade high performance oil. Both contain high levels of zinc. Not recommended for cars with catalytic converters.


Thanks for the input. yeah, that is what I would expect too. Can you provide details on oil, weight and oil pressure you are seeing?

Do you prime the filter as full as you can get it or do you put it on completely empty?
Oil is dino Valvoline VR1 racing oil 10W-30.

I don't prime the filter, just a little oil on the rubber gasket.

Oil pressure gauge is stock so no numbers, but it runs about

90% of scale (between notches) when warmed up. Rebuilt

engine has less than 5000 miles on it.

mike

Everyone has their favorite brands of oil but this website has a lot of info that you may find useful.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
mike

Everyone has their favorite brands of oil but this website has a lot of info that you may find useful.
I checked those two oils, Penn and Hemmings, and they are partial

synthetics. I don't want that.

mike
Did you have a problem using synthetic or synthetic blend oil?

I know some people don't like to use it in rebuilt engine. I have used synthetic oil in my 428cj since it was rebuilt 30 yrs. ago with no problems. Fords have come from the factory with synthetic blend oil for many years, even using it in the 6.7 power stroke Diesel.

 
Nearly all "dino" oil today is in fact a synthetic blend. It is not sold as such for marketing reasons.

There are many regional oils that are excellent for older engines: Joe Gibbs is good, the Brad Penn stuff is excellent. Shaeffer's is good also.

 
mike

Everyone has their favorite brands of oil but this website has a lot of info that you may find useful.
I checked those two oils, Penn and Hemmings, and they are partial

synthetics. I don't want that.

mike
Did you have a problem using synthetic or synthetic blend oil?

I know some people don't like to use it in rebuilt engine. I have used synthetic oil in my 428cj since it was rebuilt 30 yrs. ago with no problems. Fords have come from the factory with synthetic blend oil for many years, even using it in the 6.7 power stroke Diesel.
Never had a problem, never used a synthetic.

I contacted Valvoline about their VR-1 racing oil

and they said it was perfectly safe to use in my engine

for street purposes. Without asking the question directly

Valvoline informed me their oil contained a "detergent package"

so I think they knew where I was headed.

mike

 
Standard Motorcraft filter always on my Fords new or old. Been running FL-1A since the beginning of time in pre-1985 V8's. Match that to QS deluxe 30 weight or 10-40 for older engines with ZDDP additive now days just to be safe.

 
.

you can also use joe gibbs hot rod oil.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top