NASA Hood options- repair or aftermarket?

[Jeff73Mach1]

I shimmed mine almost immediately after buying it. It helps a lot.

Butch-consider where you are located in relation to the nearest parts supplier that might have one in stock. Fo instance in the atlanta area you can buy one at several plaves and save a ton on shipping-and you can inspect it and not have to deal with potential shipping damage.

 

[Qcode351mach]

There is nothing wrong with shims and they were necessary on the cars then

Exactley if you look at the body assembly manual they spec out shims under each fender bolt..IF you DON't use them then the fender dosn't curve properly to match the hood.

Provided the unibody is square in spec the shims are fine..The only issue you may have with the aftermarket hood is the skin isn't tack welded to the frame(at least the one I bought 2 years ago) Which was a good thing since it allowed me to move the skin tweak it for a perfect fit. The other thing I also did was to add material (welding rod) to the edges for a perfect 3/16" fender to hood edge gap

 

[Butch65]

Q- You had to add to both sides of the hood to get the correct clearance ? How did you cover the rod and finish? Fiberglass? Body filler?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I suspect he filled it all in with weld and ground it flush.

Adding to the side of the hood isn't usually necessary. If you want nice tight modern looking gaps, then you may need to go to such extremes.

 

[Dave72Rcode]

i went with dynacorn when we stripped the car to bare metal... the original hood was too far gone... the BOW in the middle was extremely pronounced. i had a very good body man... he placed 4x4's, then 2x4's under the hood and pressed down hard (jumped on it is more like it) at the front of the hood... but it was freaky to see how much force he had to put down on it... but eventually, it was MASSAGED into place... nice gaps... looks nice.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Q- You had to add to both sides of the hood to get the correct clearance ? How did you cover the rod and finish? Fiberglass? Body filler?

Not to get the correct clearance but to get a SHOW CAR clearance..The rod gets filled top& bottom with mig welder than hand filed..Keep in mind that some spots just need the mig itself with no rod & some spots need to be trimmed back..On my green 72 I have very good lines stock hood..stock fenders..Better than most..Why ? Because I spent hours moving stuff,, aligning,, thick shims,, thin shims..Nice but not a perfect 3/16" all around the car like my q-code..I have about 40 hours just into fitting aligning..then antoher 60-80 into making every gap flawless on the car out of metal no filler

See my video on how it's done




You can see the Green 72 build here

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-green-72-fastback-former-429-460

 

[Mustang Dynasty]

Gents-

As we look to dress the old girl up, I've been noodling options on the NASA hood. We want to go full forced air setup, and naturally would love to use a factory hood, but we all know how hard they are to find in good shape, so I started looking at Dynacorn's version.

I was almost sold on aftermarket when I found found a used NASA hood that the fellow has priced @ $250.00. The hood is straight, but it has rusted through the underside (see pic). (It is only the hood not trim pieces) It appears to be something I can repair, but after the repair, I'm in another $100-150 for soda blasting and sealer /primer.

Don at Ohio says $320 + freight for the Dynacorn.

Can I get opinions on which direction you feel is best?

Thanks!

Butch

i would love to see an extra NACA scoop w/a real shallow fan dead center of hood where the air filter sits under hood and a really adjustable to the rpms of the engine to blast extra air onto an open air flter like a 3rd ram air then 2 scoops on the aft side where the engine heat dissipates away from the motor