need a 351 cleveland motor builder /expert/ please PM me!!!

[Tnfastbk]

When it rains.......It pours!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[72HCODE]

what happened was i had an alignment and i moved the caster from 1 to 2 degrees and that was enough to pop a poly on the passenger side for the sway bar arm to the lower control arm. the sound was coming from the drivers side because as the suspension twisted the loose tie on the passenger side was rubbing the lower control and making a pop that could be felt through the chassis, i had an extra poly so i replaced the bad one. I seriously need to think about changing them to rubber and being done with it, too many issues for a street car.

originally i thought the sound from from the Strut rod, but i was bouncing the front end with me on top of the engine and i started putting my hands on everything and traced the vibration to the sway bar mounts, that's when i found the bad poly, before the alignment there was no noise.

 

[72HCODE]

update to nowhere:

Called the builder this morning. He promised to call me back, and he never did. I gave him 2 days and called him.

asked him if he looked at the photos i sent that he promised to look at on Tuesday, he never did.

tells me maybe he can do something for me in 2 weeks.

this was the same garbage he pulled on me in 2009. so now i still have no confirmation from the guy.

Typical flake. well i'll be calling him next week to remind him i exist.

At this point the car is back together and running fine, interestingly since i removed that rather large piece of metal the engine as been running quieter (can you say oil starvation) I'm loving the new valve cover gaskets i picked up also.

another update on this subject to follow.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Hey Danny, if your guy is such a bad professional, and if it is ok to the forum rules, maybe you can put his name on under something like "unrecomended people" and who knows, maybe you help other members not to end up stucked with this kind of liers...

It is a bit drastic but... for sure an irresponsable person, shop or whatever should be pointed out for what they actually are...

Bottom lines is that you fixed the problem??...

 

[72HCODE]

i'd rather not post anything on a public forum i have a list of horrible people in the automotive businesses located in my home state if somebody asks i can tell them whom not to use.

in 6 years i've learned truly awful human beings populate the classic car industry.

for every honest nice person in this hobby there are 100 rotten apples.

 

[droptop73]

That's so sad but true. Too many unscrupulous shops see car enthusiasts as deep pockets to tap into.

If someone wants engine work done by folks who are honest and will give you what you pay for let me know. The shop is here in West Michigan but is well worth it. He is also a Ford guy who has been building engines for a long time.

Maybe a database of good vendors / suppliers would help.

 

[whitesoc]

That's so sad but true. Too many unscrupulous shops see car enthusiasts as deep pockets to tap into.

If someone wants engine work done by folks who are honest and will give you what you pay for let me know. The shop is here in West Michigan but is well worth it. He is also a Ford guy who has been building engines for a long time.

Maybe a database of good vendors / suppliers would help.

x1 on the names of good vendors/suppliers

The sad thing about the deep pockets reference is that a lot of us are just guys who work way too hard for our money and don't have the deep pockets. Any word of mouth on vendors/suppliers in the hobby that provide decent service for a reasonable price would be great to share!

 

[droptop73]

Yeah Ken... I'm not saying ANY of us really have deep pockets it just seems like some think we do. Like I've said before I'm cheap.

It's not just this hobby either.

H, I really hope you can find an engine guy you can trust. I'm a long way away but if I can be of any help let me know. I've got a pretty good B.S. meter.

 

[72HCODE]

at this point I'm forcing the guy to do this work.

can i do it? yup I'm sure i can, the point is I've had a 3 year history of issues with this engine, and i personally fixed them all because i could not prove it was due to him personally. this time i have a provable defect with the engine and he verbally told me anything like this he would guarantee against, now i want to see him live up to his word.

its seems no matter how hard i tried to avoid getting involved with the bad people in the auto industry i managed to find the worst.

i will get through this set back one way or another.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

X2 on doing a list of GOOD workshops in every area and suppliers...

Much much better than do a NON recomemded list of guys... jeje... Had a bad day the other day when that idea came up

Well... let´s see... Our cars are starting to become classics and yet restorable... And i know in the US there are lots of our era mustangs...

We are by far the N° 1 7173 forum... so... doing a list of recomended people and dealers can be interesting for those guys who really want to work on classic cars... If we do that list fair and easy to find i´m sure it will help a lot of owners and a lot of good guys trying to work in this classic car business... If they earn their way to our "recomended people list" i´m sure both users and dealers will be helped here...

 

[RollTideMach]

If your in the south east Proline Racing is in Georgia and do some increadable work. Im sending my 351W there for all of my machine work.

 

[72HCODE]

114 miles today.

A month has gone by.

Synopses:

Today the engine was finally worked on.

Intake port #8 was where the part came from in the photos, We found all the pieces that broke off.

Surprise Exhaust #5 had also Disintegrated all the parts were contained inside the valve spring on that one, and it broke into 3 small pieces. no body was expecting to find that one, and the untold damage it would of caused in the engine.

two of the teflon valve stem seals had let go on driver's head. Nothing found out of place on the passenger side.

all broken parts recovered.

after about 3000 miles, the autolight 24 spark plugs were all 8 covered in oil i mean a lot of oil. before i left the house i filled up the engine oil to the full mark. after 57 miles i was 1/2 quart down. the teflon seals were total garbage.

all seals replaced with Viton 11/32 X .500

Sand blasted all spark plugs, and reassembled.

So lets see what happens now.

 

[Tnfastbk]

114 miles today.

A month has gone by.

Synopses:

Today the engine was finally worked on.

Intake port #8 was where the part came from in the photos, We found all the pieces that broke off.

Surprise Exhaust #5 had also Disintegrated all the parts were contained inside the valve spring on that one, and it broke into 3 small pieces. no body was expecting to find that one, and the untold damage it would of caused in the engine.

two of the teflon valve stem seals had let go on driver's head. Nothing found out of place on the passenger side.

all broken parts recovered.

after about 3000 miles, the autolight 24 spark plugs were all 8 covered in oil i mean a lot of oil. before i left the house i filled up the engine oil to the full mark. after 57 miles i was 1/2 quart down. the teflon seals were total garbage.

all seals replaced with Viton 11/32 X .500

Sand blasted all spark plugs, and reassembled.

So lets see what happens now.

Good Luck

 

[droptop73]

I hope that works out H. It's kinda hard to believe all that oil consumption is coming from valve seals. Possible but it seems excessive. Maybe a leakdown test would help narrow down the source of the oil.

 

[72HCODE]

We used a leak down gauge inline with the air compressor when we held up the valves.

Here is what happened;

I took the valve covers, we inspected the rockers and rods and determined the #8 int was where the broken part most likely came from.

I then began to pull spark plugs, the second I saw #1 I went oh boy, I pulled #2 and it was the same lots of oil the plugs were wet around the threads and had burnt oil on the electrode.

I showed both to my engine guy and he was concerned as I was.

We labeled all 8 plugs and all looked about the same, wet with oil with burnt in oil on the plugs.

At this point the engine guy installed a leak down gauge inline with the air compressor and zeroed it out, starting with #8 and top dead center we got about 6% leakage. I know that 10% is within spec. We then proceeded to change each stem seal one at a time. During the procedure I noted no cylinder reached 10% leakage. All 8 were below 10%. Both he and I felt this was good, and it had to be the stem seals causing the oil issue.

We finished all 16 seals. Then media blasted all 8 spark plugs clean. I then put about 150 miles on the car since then. This week I want to pull plug #1 and have a look at it.

It would be nice to see a clean plug.

Cross fingers


well right after i posted, i had to put the car away from the weekend and took the chance to pull spark plug #2; It was clean no oil on threads or on the electrode.

I will keep an eye on the oil levels.

 

[Tnfastbk]

COOL on the clean plug hope that was the demons