Need help/advice on my 71 suspension and brakes

[Milalynne]

My front desk brakes the rotors are new they’ve been replaced by the previous owner. But the stopping on this thing is terrible so what should I do with my back brakes are there some good pads that will help out if so do you know what brand and kind what else can I do to help out

Part two the suspension
I mean this car has over 400 hp but this suspension is terrible on it I was thinking buying like a full bushing kit replacing all the bushings what do you think I also hear there’s two kinds well I know there’s two kinds the whatever if you think that’s a good idea which one should I get I’m also what about a 1 inch front sway bar? What about subframe connectors my dad says not a good idea cause you know you have to weld them on And could bring down the value but I want to make some that you can just bolt on I know there’s not a good as welding but I know you could buy some bolt on for the fox body any advice on that question on that. 3rd question on the suspension the struts I was looking at KYB because they have some that’s auto adjustable but I hear Blistein cost more but the what I read an article is that it made a world a difference versus the KYB do you think it’s worth the extra $200 . Any other suspension advice where I could tighten it up and also I mean the steering wheel is I mean it straight but it’s like it’s so easy to turn like before you know it you’re in the other lane I’ve never driven a car that’s not tight like I mean this is just different And I got that’s too dangerous especially if I wanted to take it to the road track you know dragstrip I take it to dragstrip to see the timing but it’s I’m in Moore to road racing not street racing any help at all I would be greatly appreciated I know probably all y’all are experts I know everything there is to know about Mustangs and Corvettes so thank you Siemens customer support Center this is Mila Siemens customer support center this is my Mila

 

[OLE PONY]

Anyone want to weigh-in?

 

[Sheriff41]

Having a sound suspension is the foundation for a good handling Mustang. There are many opinions and options for suspensions, and it will hinge on what your goals are for your car. Some prefer polyurethane, other prefer the original rubber, some a mix of both. For more serious road course type configuration, you will want to look at sources like opentrackerracing.com or mikemaierinc.com - we have a few members on here that have been down that road with their cars. Several of us are using ADDCO sway bars on our street cars and the handling improvement of the larger bars are very noticeable. Shocks run the range of hydraulic, gas, adjustable with a wide price range.

Opentrackerracing.com offers some brake upgrade options. One that may help your braking needs are the Porterfield brake shoes they offer.

Maybe some others will add their recommendations here.

 

[MikeGriese]

I would suggest having the alignment checked before doing anything else. For brakes, make sure they are bled properly and that the calipers are not sticking.

 

[will e]

Of course 'terrible' is a relative term. Our cars are 50 year old technology based on even older designs. They won't compare to the technology of newer cars, especially the chassis and suspension. Corvettes, even the older ones, had the advantage of less weight, full frames and generally better suspension technologies.

I put on sub-frame connectors way way long ago but I have a convertible, that makes them an almost 'must have' and I wasn't worried about resale value. Unless you are going to try to sell it as an 'all original' I don't think subframe connectors will drop the value much. Most people on the board wouldn't strike money off and a casual mustang buyer wouldn't know the difference.

 

[Barrysmach1]

My front desk brakes the rotors are new they’ve been replaced by the previous owner. But the stopping on this thing is terrible so what should I do with my back brakes are there some good pads that will help out if so do you know what brand and kind what else can I do to help out

Part two the suspension
I mean this car has over 400 hp but this suspension is terrible on it I was thinking buying like a full bushing kit replacing all the bushings what do you think I also hear there’s two kinds well I know there’s two kinds the whatever if you think that’s a good idea which one should I get I’m also what about a 1 inch front sway bar? What about subframe connectors my dad says not a good idea cause you know you have to weld them on And could bring down the value but I want to make some that you can just bolt on I know there’s not a good as welding but I know you could buy some bolt on for the fox body any advice on that question on that. 3rd question on the suspension the struts I was looking at KYB because they have some that’s auto adjustable but I hear Blistein cost more but the what I read an article is that it made a world a difference versus the KYB do you think it’s worth the extra $200 . Any other suspension advice where I could tighten it up and also I mean the steering wheel is I mean it straight but it’s like it’s so easy to turn like before you know it you’re in the other lane I’ve never driven a car that’s not tight like I mean this is just different And I got that’s too dangerous especially if I wanted to take it to the road track you know dragstrip I take it to dragstrip to see the timing but it’s I’m in Moore to road racing not street racing any help at all I would be greatly appreciated I know probably all y’all are experts I know everything there is to know about Mustangs and Corvettes so thank you Siemens customer support Center this is Mila Siemens customer support center this is my Mila

I would contact John at Opentracker Racing and discuss suspension , they do not try to over sell you but will educate on what's needed

 

[giantpune]

If you have discs up front and drums in the back, the brakes on these are perfectly adequate for not having ABS and having like 8" wide tread. You should be able to lock up all 4 corners and leave black marks on the pavement. Even with cheap parts from autozone.

The usual issues are having the front calipers on the wrong side, which makes them impossible to bleed. Also, a seized proportioning valve that prevents half the brakes from working. And then not having the system properly bled. Air in the line is squishy.

Bleed the master cylinder. You can bench bleed it installed in the car. Then bleed each corner, starting with the furthest from the master cylinder. Keep going till you see bubbles, and keep going till there's no bubbles.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I went Opentracker racing for:
Heim strut bar
Roller perch
Reinforced roller lower arm
1 1/8” front sway bar
Roller idler arm

I couldn’t get enough caster shimming so I went global west upper arms with 3 degrees and the Shelby drop

Recently added the lares quick ratio steering box

Weld in classic subframe connectors (where I can lift one side of the car easily jacking on the front torque box)

All of the above has made the car handle like a new car ( I wanted my wife to feel comfortable driving it)

All of the above are little improvements. Doing them all makes a big difference.

Gas shocks raise the car that was designed for oil shocks

The alignment is the key. You have to use Opentrackers specs. Original specs are for bias ply tires and you probably have radials on. This is why you have to shim the upper an arm or replace it with one having added caster. If you done the tires will rub the fenders while turning.

 

[canook2u]

The best approach is to start with replacing the worn-out parts you have now, THEN see if you need/ want to throw all that money into the extra items you mention.
Start with lifting your front end off the ground, look at the condition of all your bushings/ ball joints.
If the boots are torn/ rotted & you see grease leaking around wheel seals, ball joints, steering box, etc., fix all that first.
Grab each front tire at 3 & 9 position & try to wiggle it, (checking for play). do the same thing from the 12 & 6 position. When you spin the tire, there should be a slight resistance, if not, you may need new wheel bearings, or just a 1/4 turn on the nut to firm them up, (may as well re-grease while you're doing it).
Get a good steering box, combined with replacing your inner/ out tie-rod ends, pitman arm, etc., this will eliminate the EASY & LOOSE steering/ wandering you have.
KYB offers stock rate gas shocks & +25% stiffer, (gas-a-just). Bilstein is a good shock, but I think they're over-priced, (my opinion).
Fatter sway bars will allow for flatter cornering, but only when the other items are in good shape.

 

[Milalynne]

I would contact John at Opentracker Racing and discuss suspension , they do not try to over sell you but will educate on what's needed

Thanks ill check it out

 

[canook2u]

Thanks ill check it out

Have you had a chance to look at it? If so, what did you find?

 

[Milalynne]

Have you had a chance to look at it? If so, what did you find?

This is what I bought so far. See list below. I emailed the folks that sell the front triangle brace I mentioned like you said and expressed the concerns but I’m not sure if they will even sell it to me cause I live in the Fort Worth Dallas area but the family shop is in the Tulsa Oklahoma area which I go back to once a month to do my work and I have a lot of time off so and it’s a large enough shop and I bought for Mustangs all to restore and it’s a big enough shot for it all plus my brother’s Corvette and my dad‘s Corvette but they won’t ship to an address that doesn’t match your billing address and I drive a newer Jeep Wrangler even with the seats down in the back I don’t think I can get it in there so I asked them about that cause I had one place when I bought parts my backseat cushion or covers from them they asked just for photos of my ID but they so they would ship it that way so I don’t know if I’m gonna be able to get it and it’s $645 I just think that’s a little crazy I mean I paid $44 for that Monte Carlo bar that didn’t fit by the way it cost $60 to ship it back so I’m stuck with it I figure I’ll take it to some of the Mustang shows and find somebody who wants it for a couple dollars or for free I don’t care I really want to wish that I could fabricate the one that owe from the earlier post from that guy‘s car I’ve got a welder but I mean I’m a girl my brother would have to do my welding for me and I’m not exactly sure how he did it cause I didn’t see the bar from the shop that he bought it from so I’m still unsure about that but I have until June is going to be my first race on an actual Speedway Hall motor Speedway there in Oklahoma so I’ve got a little bit of time to figure that part out. I made a website mostly for the Mustang IIs since there isn’t one in a forum for them since I did buy a King Cobra to restore but I also have my car on there and to keep an update on what I’m doing I get my the other Mach 1 that I bought that has the ram air option and a couple of better options it’s a light Pewter Silver is being picked up on the 18th so I’ll have it sometime this month it’s going to be the one I’m going to make it to a factory original kind of show Car you know instead of what I have now making this into a road racer just for fun here is the site just in case you wanna look at it I’ve just started on it a few weeks ago so my forum is not ready yet cause I’m I have programmed in a long time in years so it’s having to relearn the new programming. But when I get back up there in January to start installing the suspension stuff I’m definitely going to you know check over everything like you said the wheel bearings and kind of follow the suggestions from everybodyhttps://milamusclecars.com/

• 1″ front sway bar
• 3/4′ back sway bar
• Prothane total bushing kit
• QA1 single adjustable shocks. For the front and rear (you can adjust them for road racing, drag racing or comfort)
• Coil Spring Saddle High performance
• Leaf springs 5-leaf, stock height

 

[canook2u]

This is what I bought so far. See list below. I emailed the folks that sell the front triangle brace I mentioned like you said and expressed the concerns but I’m not sure if they will even sell it to me cause I live in the Fort Worth Dallas area but the family shop is in the Tulsa Oklahoma area which I go back to once a month to do my work and I have a lot of time off so and it’s a large enough shop and I bought for Mustangs all to restore and it’s a big enough shot for it all plus my brother’s Corvette and my dad‘s Corvette but they won’t ship to an address that doesn’t match your billing address and I drive a newer Jeep Wrangler even with the seats down in the back I don’t think I can get it in there so I asked them about that cause I had one place when I bought parts my backseat cushion or covers from them they asked just for photos of my ID but they so they would ship it that way so I don’t know if I’m gonna be able to get it and it’s $645 I just think that’s a little crazy I mean I paid $44 for that Monte Carlo bar that didn’t fit by the way it cost $60 to ship it back so I’m stuck with it I figure I’ll take it to some of the Mustang shows and find somebody who wants it for a couple dollars or for free I don’t care I really want to wish that I could fabricate the one that owe from the earlier post from that guy‘s car I’ve got a welder but I mean I’m a girl my brother would have to do my welding for me and I’m not exactly sure how he did it cause I didn’t see the bar from the shop that he bought it from so I’m still unsure about that but I have until June is going to be my first race on an actual Speedway Hall motor Speedway there in Oklahoma so I’ve got a little bit of time to figure that part out. I made a website mostly for the Mustang IIs since there isn’t one in a forum for them since I did buy a King Cobra to restore but I also have my car on there and to keep an update on what I’m doing I get my the other Mach 1 that I bought that has the ram air option and a couple of better options it’s a light Pewter Silver is being picked up on the 18th so I’ll have it sometime this month it’s going to be the one I’m going to make it to a factory original kind of show Car you know instead of what I have now making this into a road racer just for fun here is the site just in case you wanna look at it I’ve just started on it a few weeks ago so my forum is not ready yet cause I’m I have programmed in a long time in years so it’s having to relearn the new programming. But when I get back up there in January to start installing the suspension stuff I’m definitely going to you know check over everything like you said the wheel bearings and kind of follow the suggestions from everybodyhttps://milamusclecars.com/

• 1″ front sway bar
• 3/4′ back sway bar
• Prothane total bushing kit
• QA1 single adjustable shocks. For the front and rear (you can adjust them for road racing, drag racing or comfort)
• Coil Spring Saddle High performance
• Leaf springs 5-leaf, stock height

Milalynne,
WOW, that is a lot of information - you have a lot going on here. I am NOT an English Professor, by any stretch, please don't take this the wrong way, but a little punctuation here and there would make for a much easier read. I had to go back & re-read a couple times, just to make sure I understood. I checked out the milamusclecars.com website. . . .some nice stuff on there. . . .keep it going.

 

[canook2u]

There is a 1-1/8" front bar available.
I may be wrong, but if I were going to be road racing, I would want the fattest bars available.
Just my opinion. . .

 

[Milalynne]

Milalynne,
WOW, that is a lot of information - you have a lot going on here. I am NOT an English Professor, by any stretch, please don't take this the wrong way, but a little punctuation here and there would make for a much easier read. I had to go back & re-read a couple times, just to make sure I understood. I checked out the milamusclecars.com website. . . .some nice stuff on there. . . .keep it going.

Milalynne,
WOW, that is a lot of information - you have a lot going on here. I am NOT an English Professor, by any stretch, please don't take this the wrong way, but a little punctuation here and there would make for a much easier read. I had to go back & re-read a couple times, just to make sure I understood. I checked out the milamusclecars.com website. . . .some nice stuff on there. . . .keep it going.

Your not the first one to tell me that on here. I have Fuchs dysentery which is a disease in my eye, it usually only starts to appear in people at 60 but It was discovered at just 4 years ago when i was about 36 and im the youngest person to show signs of it that all the eye dr and specialist have seen or even heard of. It’s hereditary and after telling my folks that are in late 60s my dad went and checked and he has it but it is not advanced as mine so on my phone I have to use the voice to text which is not ideal but my eyes are too blurry to even double check how well it did unless at the time it’s not too bad. The disease comes and go could but rarely good enough to not use voice. I didn’t this time but it takes 10 minutes to write something that should take 1 minute. Yes I saw they make bigger swaay bars and thought about it only after words. I’m not going to be pro racer just during test and tune days and snd amateur events when I get good enough but most importantly i want to race in the https://www.midamericafordmeet.com/ two days of racing with Shelby’s and all Americas best mustangs. It’s a fun/race. There are different rules for the experience of the drivers and they are put together to race each other for example one group may not pass on corners or can only pass up to 3 cars on straight aways. Unfortunately my surgery for transition which is most important to me is 3/18 so my dr said he don’t know if I can race or not yet until we see how healing goes. For obvious reasons I can sit on a donut pillow and race and i think I’ll be fine. It’s just I won’t be doing as much walking around as this largest mustang and Shelby event is 5 days. 1 day is the drag strip races at Tulsa speedway and car show one day with speakers. I actually met Steve saleen there in 1988 when he was racing his personal Fox body Mustang and then carol Shelby in 11992. I think with everything I’m doing to suspension and I’ll add the top shock brace and sub frame connectors that I should be fine with what my goal is but if I go back I would buy the bigger one

 

[rcadd1ct]

go with the 1 1/8” front sway bar

I didn’t read all you typed but these cars need more front control

Also they need subframe connectors to help strengthen the chassis to make the suspension work instead of body flex

 

[Milalynne]

go with the 1 1/8” front sway bar

I didn’t read all you typed but these cars need more front control

Also they need subframe connectors to help strengthen the chassis to make the suspension work instead of body flex

It’s too late on the sway bar as I already bought the 1” and I don’t think it’s worth trying to sell just to add the 1/8 but I’m will be adding subframe connectors I just haven’t decided which ones I want yet and I have time to decide. The main decision is the top shock tower brace. That is also what I’m trying to decide on to fabricate one like the guy did on a post earlier above or buy this one for 645 $ that a company makes but there are a few concerns on it but other than that I’m not sure there is anything else I can do besides bigger wheel and tires

 

[rcadd1ct]

It’s too late on the sway bar as I already bought the 1” and I don’t think it’s worth trying to sell just to add the 1/8 but I’m will be adding subframe connectors I just haven’t decided which ones I want yet and I have time to decide. The main decision is the top shock tower brace. That is also what I’m trying to decide on to fabricate one like the guy did on a post earlier above or buy this one for 645 $ that a company makes but there are a few concerns on it but other than that I’m not sure there is anything else I can do besides bigger wheel and tires

Cool

Chat with Opentracker racing.

Invest in his roller products for lower cost upgrades if you are a build it yourself type.

 

[Milalynne]

Cool

Chat with Opentracker racing.

Invest in his roller products for lower cost upgrades if you are a build it yourself type.

Thanks I emailed them. I new to road racing all my life it was drag race so I’m new and this is my first experience besides riding in the track in passenger. What about my brakes. I know they are requiring hipo brake fluid which must be drained and put in a week or less before the June race and they said to get best pads as possible. Do you have any suggestions about my brakes obviously I have the disc on the front drum disc. Cost a lot to change out the back brakes to disc but I also read on the pre-race instructions that your back drum breaks her will be fine so I don’t plan on changing them out for the 1500+ it’ll probably cost me to do that because I’m not doing this professionally now if I got it if I found out I’m really good you know and this becomes my calling then I’m not gonna be using a 71 because of its size I return my 77 Mach 1 I have or maybe buy a 70 or 69 model Mach 1. So if you know anything if you’re a road racer or no a lot about it more than I do all ears if you got any suggestions my brake cylinder is stock it is rusted on the bottom the cover is not obviously I could clean it up and paint it which I’ll do I could buy a new one that I hear they make ones that can possibly help out breaking I don’t know. Pardon my grammar due to an eye disease I have to use the voice to text and it doesn’t always come out right so I apologize in advance

 

[Milalynne]

Having a sound suspension is the foundation for a good handling Mustang. There are many opinions and options for suspensions, and it will hinge on what your goals are for your car. Some prefer polyurethane, other prefer the original rubber, some a mix of both. For more serious road course type configuration, you will want to look at sources like opentrackerracing.com or mikemaierinc.com - we have a few members on here that have been down that road with their cars. Several of us are using ADDCO sway bars on our street cars and the handling improvement of the larger bars are very noticeable. Shocks run the range of hydraulic, gas, adjustable with a wide price range.

Opentrackerracing.com offers some brake upgrade options. One that may help your braking needs are the Porterfield brake shoes they offer.

Maybe some others will add their recommendations here.

both of those sites do not offer a 71 - 73 shock tower braces or curved monte carlo bars, only for 1970 - 1965