New Cardone PS pump leaking

[70cobrascj]

Installed the second new Cardone PS pump because the first one leaked at the pressure fitting coming out of the house. Second one does the same thing n maybe worse. Anyone else experience this with new PS pumps? Pretty damn frustrating.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Check the hard line fitting between the pump and p.s. hose. I thought my pump pressure port was leaking but it was in fact the hard line in it's flair area.

 

[70cobrascj]

Check the hard line fitting between the pump and p.s. hose. I thought my pump pressure port was leaking but it was in fact the hard line in it's flair area.

It looks dry from the fitting to the bracket but wet between the bracket and housing nut

 

[NOT A T5]

Some pumps have no Flair...just Flare!

 

[Stanglover]

I'm not exactly sure where the leak is you're referring to.
If it's the fitting itself, then check there is no damage to the flare. Then check the hose fitting for nicks or damage. Obviously, use two wrenches to tighten the fitting.
If it's leaking around the high pressure outlet and the canister, then the leak is because there is only now a stupid paper gasket between the canister and pump itself. There used to be a rubber and steel washer, but the rebuild kits only supply a paper gasket, which is basically useless. I have rebuilt 2 pumps now and in both cases, I had this gasket leak. What has to be done is the canister has to be removed. Make sure the base of the canister is perfectly flat and clean with brake cleaner. I cut my own new gasket from oil proof gasket material a bit larger than the original. Apply some "The Right Stuff" on both sides and fit over the outlet tube. Lube the big "O" ring with PS fluid and reattach the canister. I also ere on the side of prevention by adding a bead of The Right Stuff around the shell lip. Probably not necessary, but that's me. Tighten the large flat nut, let the right stuff cure and it should be good to go.
Arrow shows where the "paper" gasket goes.

EDIT: I must be blind, didn't see the pic posted.

 

[351c1971]

Double check the flare for hair line cracks.

 

[Stanglover]

It looks dry from the fitting to the bracket but wet between the bracket and housing nut View attachment 86244

That's the paper gasket leaking.
At best, it might just be the nut not tight against the canister.

 

[Stanglover]

https://www.stangerssite.com/HowItWorksFordPump.html
Borrowed this, might be helpful to understand these pumps.

 

[70cobrascj]

I'm not exactly sure where the leak is you're referring to.
If it's the fitting itself, then check there is no damage to the flare. Then check the hose fitting for nicks or damage. Obviously, use two wrenches to tighten the fitting.
If it's leaking around the high pressure outlet and the canister, then the leak is because there is only now a stupid paper gasket between the canister and pump itself. There used to be a rubber and steel washer, but the rebuild kits only supply a paper gasket, which is basically useless. I have rebuilt 2 pumps now and in both cases, I had this gasket leak. What has to be done is the canister has to be removed. Make sure the base of the canister is perfectly flat and clean with brake cleaner. I cut my own new gasket from oil proof gasket material a bit larger than the original. Apply some "The Right Stuff" on both sides and fit over the outlet tube. Lube the big "O" ring with PS fluid and reattach the canister. I also ere on the side of prevention by adding a bead of The Right Stuff around the shell lip. Probably not necessary, but that's me. Tighten the large flat nut, let the right stuff cure and it should be good to go.
Arrow shows where the "paper" gasket goes.

EDIT: I must be blind, didn't see the pic posted.

How do you remove the canister?
My original pump works fine it’s just dented up. I have another pump with a good canister that I could swap out.
I’m pretty that both new pump leaked where you say. They don’t make things like they used to.
Thanks

 

[c9zx]

+1 on the nut being not tight enough. I had one start to leak after 12 years in very occasional use. Tightened the nut a very thin opened wrench, leak stopped. Chuck
wrenches. https://www.amazon.com/HORUSDY-Wren...dy+9+piece+sae+wrench+set,aps,121&sr=8-5&th=1

 

[Stanglover]

How do you remove the canister?
My original pump works fine it’s just dented up. I have another pump with a good canister that I could swap out.
I’m pretty that both new pump leaked where you say. They don’t make things like they used to.
Thanks

Unfortunately not that easy. With the pump removed and drained, the pulley has to be removed and for that you'll need a pulley/installer tool kit (Harbor Freight). Then the bracket can be removed, keep parts in order and perhaps take pictures as you go. With the brackets all removed and the canister thin nut removed. Then you can hold the pump casting in a vice using a rag or something around it. Then you can twist and work the canister off. There will be fluid still in there, so be aware.
With it stripped down, then you can make gasket and seal as I described. Reassemble in reverse.
It's a lot of work for just a small leak and a real pita.

 

[Bill Kanode]

This is related to power steering pumps and systems. I just bought my 1971 351C and the steering seems to easy compared to my 2006 GT and am asking if there is a way to stiffen up the effort. I have thought that maybe I should install a steering dampener like is used on 4X4 trucks. Any suggestions are considered. Thx, Bill

 

[Stanglover]

This is related to power steering pumps and systems. I just bought my 1971 351C and the steering seems to easy compared to my 2006 GT and am asking if there is a way to stiffen up the effort. I have thought that maybe I should install a steering dampener like is used on 4X4 trucks. Any suggestions are considered. Thx, Bill

Our Mustangs had 2 ratio boxes for power steering. The slower ratio and easier to turn was 17.5:1 fixed. These were typically on all cars that did not have Competition Suspension. Mach 1's had variable ratio boxes at 16 to 13:1. Other than that it would have been either a 22:1 or 24: 1 ratio manual box. ( If you want really heavy steering, I have a 22:1 manual box I'll sell you!!)
The tag on your PS box would be for the 71, SPA-S or U (17.5:1) or SPA-T or V for variable.
If the steering feel too easy, perhaps someone has installed the wrong diameter pump pulley. Regardless, the steering should not need any sort of damper, something I've never heard of being done to these cars. You can't really compare an old PS box to modern rack and pinion systems.
Does your car have AC? If not the pulley ought to be 6 1/4" diam # D0OR-B
Also your entire front steering ought to be checked and aligned using these specs.

 

[70cobrascj]

Unfortunately not that easy. With the pump removed and drained, the pulley has to be removed and for that you'll need a pulley/installer tool kit (Harbor Freight). Then the bracket can be removed, keep parts in order and perhaps take pictures as you go. With the brackets all removed and the canister thin nut removed. Then you can hold the pump casting in a vice using a rag or something around it. Then you can twist and work the canister off. There will be fluid still in there, so be aware.
With it stripped down, then you can make gasket and seal as I described. Reassemble in reverse.
It's a lot of work for just a small leak and a real pita.

I have a pump pulley puller kit and have removed the pulley a few times going back and forth between the new and original pump. But I have never tried removing the canister before. With it bring on there for 50 years sure it doesn’t just pop off.
Thanks.
As far the hose, metal tube and flares go, my original pump doesn’t leak.

 

[Stanglover]

I have a pump pulley puller kit and have removed the pulley a few times going back and forth between the new and original pump. But I have never tried removing the canister before. With it bring on there for 50 years sure it doesn’t just pop off.
Thanks.
As far the hose, metal tube and flares go, my original pump doesn’t leak.

Sounds like you have a good handle on it all.
The original pump will probably have the rubber and metal gasket. Unfortunately I have not found any replacements the same. They are the reverse to the type used on oil drain plugs, i.e. metal on the inside, rubber on the outside. If anyone knows if and where these can be bought, pls let us know.
To remove the old canister, maybe a strap type wrench would work. You do NOT want to distort or damage it in any way. Dents can be gently hammered out.

 

[Bill Kanode]

I am COMPLETELY rebuilding ALL components on the car. Engine, EVERY PIECE of suspension, steering components including the gear, all springs, all SS brake and fuel lines, SS parking brake cables, 4spd toploader transmission, brakes front and rear, 9" differential, rebuilt at specialty shop alternator, starter, water pump, AC compressor and anything else that can be rebuilt. I have not finished the work yet but will know how it drives when everything is back together. I hope not to resort to adding a steering dampener in the future.

 

[72MustangSprint]

Maybe if a guy had a spare , you could try it

 

[machattack]

I have a pump pulley puller kit and have removed the pulley a few times going back and forth between the new and original pump. But I have never tried removing the canister before. With it bring on there for 50 years sure it doesn’t just pop off.
Thanks.
As far the hose, metal tube and flares go, my original pump doesn’t leak.

I need to remove the pully from my O.E pump and install on the new Cordone pump I just purchased. Some pointers on removing the pully and maybe what H.F pully puller to use?

 

[Don C]

You need a puller that will clamp around the groove on the pulley hub. This one should work:
https://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-12-piece-63068.html

This one seems a little better rated and even looks better in the pictures:
https://www.harborfreight.com/pulley-remover-and-installer-set-12-piece-56225.html

 

[c9zx]

This is related to power steering pumps and systems. I just bought my 1971 351C and the steering seems to easy compared to my 2006 GT and am asking if there is a way to stiffen up the effort. I have thought that maybe I should install a steering dampener like is used on 4X4 trucks. Any suggestions are considered. Thx, Bill

It can be done with one of these, and a handful of adapters and hose. I passed on the idea, it would be a monstrosity when assembled. Chuck https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...bnt92SE8KylXJiTCcjUWpqXoqDY6r4RRoCu8kQAvD_BwE
P.S It will never steer like your GT.