New Member in AZ, Joined to try and put together a Build plan for a 1973 Mach 1 that is in need of total restoration, trying to keep it simple cheap

[73 mach 1 1962]

By total restoration, I mean its original, it was sitting in AZ heat for 20 years any thing rubber is Shot and in need of replacement. I am going to start with Mechanical work them go to cosmetics. 351 W and staggered shocks

By Cheap I mean not looking to make a race car out of It!

Sheriff, Why do you think its "Competition " Suspension? THe staggered shocks? I was thinking of doing a 1" drop with the Stock set up, Does anybody know what is involved?

 

[Sheriff41]

Sheriff, Why do you think its "Competition " Suspension? THe staggered shocks? I was thinking of doing a 1" drop with the Stock set up, Does anybody know what is involved?

Yes, the staggered shocks were part of the competition suspension. I suspect your car is a Q-code (351C 4V) also. I think @turtle5353 did the 8.8 retrofit into his Mach 1. Maybe he'll chime in and share his experience.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Do you have the Marti report on the car. You get useful info for only $20.

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

Yes, the staggered shocks were part of the competition suspension. I suspect your car is a Q-code (351C 4V) also. I think @turtle5353 did the 8.8 retrofit into his Mach 1. Maybe he'll chime in and share his experience.

Yes, there is a Q in the Vin #, 5th digit! Looks like the Engine was replaced, I'm guessing from the reference to 1976 in the Sticker on Valve cover. Got my rear and rear springs out, one broken leaf spring! Can you tell me anything about the Motor? 351 M? I'm guess a later model replacement for the Original 351 C ? Possibly a stupid question, but what does the 4V stand for in 351C 4V? I thought these motors where all 2 valve?

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

I also noticed that you said "351W" It has a Windsor motor in there as well as a Granada rear end? If so, perhaps someone pulled motor AND rear end from a Granada. Mind you, off hand I don't know what motors Granada's had in them, but as 351C all but died in 73, it could be.

A Clue!

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

Do you have the Marti report on the car. You get useful info for only $20.

No I dont. Not sure what A Marti report is?

 

[Hemikiller]

The tag is from a 1976 351M/400 engine. Those are both of the 335 Series engines, aka the Cleveland engine family, but are a tall deck / long rod version. Maybe post a pic with the air cleaner off so we can see what's up with the engine.

 

[1973 Mach-1]

A question, AS stated I plan on replacing all the Dried up Rubber, But Im not certain about the Steel Brake lines, they Look to be in perfect condition, Would a flush be OK, Can I stick with the 50 year old steel brake lines?
Im looking to replace the Booster and master Cyl and all rubber brake lines.
Thanks,

The brake lines in my 73 have lived all their lives in Phoenix, and they're doing fine, as well as the rubber connecting hoses at the front brakes. I say leave the metal! My Master Cyl had an unbelievable amount of sludge that wore out the piston, not long after I started driving. (My car sat for a little before I bought it.)

 

[Sheriff41]

The 4V refers to a 4-barrel carb. There are some top end differences between the 2-barrel and 4-barrel versions of the 351C.

@Hemikiller explained the sticker on your valve cover. Without seeing more of the engine it's difficult to say if you have a 351C or M. The valve covers are interchangeable so you may be lucky if someone just used later model valve covers on your 351.

 

[Stanglover]

Yes, there is a Q in the Vin #, 5th digit! Looks like the Engine was replaced, I'm guessing from the reference to 1976 in the Sticker on Valve cover. Got my rear and rear springs out, one broken leaf spring! Can you tell me anything about the Motor? 351 M? I'm guess a later model replacement for the Original 351 C ? Possibly a stupid question, but what does the 4V stand for in 351C 4V? I thought these motors where all 2 valve?

No such thing as a stupid question. 4V stands for 4 venturi carb. M code (71) and Q code (72-73) were 4 venturi carbs. M code were closed chamber heads whereas Q code were open chamber heads. There's a lot more differences, but not for here right now.
Many people confuse a 351C M code engine to a 351M engine, which were quite a bit different. The 400 was a longer stroked version. To my limited knowledge, 351M/400 engines were used in pickup trucks.
I'm sure others will confirm that or blow it out of the water.
There are a couple of good books on the market that fully describe the 351C if you're interested.
Ford Cleveland, 335- series V8 engine, 1970-1982 by Des Hammill.

Ford 351 Cleveland engines, How to Build for Max Performance by George Reid.

 

[Steve McMahan]

A Marti report will tell you what your car came with originally. Including the options. Here is a link to their site:

https://www.martiauto.com/martireports.cfm

Many of us have ours for our cars.

 

[Bill Perkins]

For starters I found Out I have a Granada REar!

Welcome abroad from Opelika, Alabama

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

Ugh

My first Mach 1 was that color. Unfortunately that couldn’t be it, that car joined the ranks of rear end coming around and there was a tree to stop the motion. Trees and poles have a way of transforming a beautiful body into U shapes.

 

[Sheriff41]

Sheriff, Why do you think its "Competition " Suspension? THe staggered shocks? I was thinking of doing a 1" drop with the Stock set up, Does anybody know what is involved?

There are a couple ways to do the 1" drop. The best way, since you're leaf springs are bad, would be to contact Eaton Springs and tell them what you want. They can make front coils and rear leafs to your specs. Alternatively, you can use lowering blocks on the rear and cut your coil springs to achieve the stance you're going for.

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

There are a couple ways to do the 1" drop. The best way, since you're leaf springs are bad, would be to contact Eaton Springs and tell them what you want. They can make front coils and rear leafs to your specs. Alternatively, you can use lowering blocks on the rear and cut your coil springs to achieve the stance you're going for.

I was more concerned with caster, camber in the front end, and being able to properly align the car, the front end looks pretty busy

 

[Sheriff41]

I was more concerned with caster, camber in the front end, and being able to properly align the car, the front end looks pretty busy

I've been lowering my Mustangs for decades and never had issues getting the alignment in spec. If you go more than an inch on the front you may run into bump steer issues.