Noises while running/ fine tuning

[boilermaster]

KC,      the shift rod is right, but the lever should be offset to the left, you have it offset to the right.                      hard to judge from a picture but mine looks like there is more offset than yours.                                                  take the lever off the transmission and at trans end of the rod and offset it to the left.                                          Boilermaster

 

[kcmash]

Boilermaster, 

Thanks for chiming in.  I will give that a try when I can get back to it.  The picture shown is from the bottom side up and the shifter position us trying for 3rd gear.

I figure I'll have to make quite an adjustment at the shifter end of the rod too to compensate for the different lever clocking. 

I hope this works as the options are not comforting. 

Kcmash

 

[boilermaster]

KC,

So I went and looked at my car on the lift again and when in neutral and the alignment pin in my shifter that lever is pointed 20 to 30 degrees to the rear of the car.

Also my lever has much more offset to it, perhaps 1/2''

My transmission and linkage came off of a 1973 Q code fastback.

Boilermaster

 

[kcmash]

That is kind of my concern too.

I am unsure of the date code on my 4-Speed.  I believe it is a D2AR case, then I have the correct 71 Hurst shifter with linkage.  If you look at my picture, the linkage is hitting the 2 bolts on the side of the case.  Most of the toploader shots I see do not have these 2 bolts, or the on-board BU light sensor.  This are of the case is bare of any features in the images I see.  So this has me curious as to the changes made in 72 and beyond.  

I assumed the 72 and 73 Hurst used the same shifter base, levers and rods as the 71.  Now I am wondering if the 3-4 lever and rod were a bit different to clear this feature.  There would be no way to connect to the light switch on the side of this toploader with the 71 3-4 Shifter rod.

Per your earlier recommendation, the only way I can think to change the lever position would be to move the shift rod to the outboard side of the lever and flip the shift rod 180 degrees axially, but that will not work with the bends in the shift rod.  Either that or pop the lever off the shift rod and flip that around.  Is that what you were thinking?  Just flip the lever around?

So my fears are maturing.  Do I need to find a case without this feature and BU lamp switch on the side to make the original Hurst Shifter work?  Somebody make me a good deal please!

kcmash

 

[boilermaster]

yes kc, just flip it around and see if it clears.                                                                                             Boilermaster

 

[kcmash]

So I called David Kee Topladers today and explained the situation.  The guy on the phone knew exactly what I had and was very helpful.

So my mistake, the case I used was the D2AR casting.  The difference is this new switch on the shifter side.  Apparently that switch was part of a seatbelt warning system to turn the seatbelt light when the car is in any gear.  To me, it is a pain in the ass.

So each of the bolts shown in the picture hold a retainer bracket for the switch and retain a spring and detent.  The easy part would be to put set screws in the bolt holes to hold the detents.  The problem is the switch which slides in a hole and seals with an O-Ring, and is held by the bracket.

DK Toploaders suggested that I use a shallow pan head bolt in place of the big hex head bolts.  He also said I could use the set screws, get rid of the bracket and use a small freeze plug in place of the switch to prevent leaks and seal the hole.  That will be the mission for the next trip to the hardware store and or auto parts store.  I did pull the bolts, the switch and the bracket tonight.  Finished at 9pm so I could not get to a store.

But at least I made it to the store for cat litter, which was much more urgent...

kcmash

 

[boilermaster]

KC,                                                                                                                                                              That explains why the lever on mine has more offset, as my transmission has the seat belt switch as well.               Boilermaster

 

[kcmash]

I assume yours shifts OK.   I am wondering if I just get rid of the top bolt and leave the switch and bracket in place with the lower bolt if I will be fine.  Then I can plug the upper hole only with a set screw.

I'll let you know what I do.

kcmash

 

[kcmash]

OK,  I tried the set screws and found that I cannot move the shifter as the detents are not properly loaded on the rods.  (Not sure what the side detents and springs are actually riding on.  I also discovered that the shift rod for 3/4 actually hits the boss on the case, so they really screwed things up between 71 and 72.  Funny thing is the parts vendors offer one set of shift rods for 71 through 73, so I don't know if ordering a new lever would be any different.

Anyway, Boilermaster has the only solution, flip the 3/4 lever on the rod.  So I spent about a half hour down there trying to get the rod bushing out of the lever as that needs to reverse too for it to fit on.  I tried pushing, heating and cussing.  Nothing worked.

So I figure its back to wait time as I will have to order a new bushing to get this thing together again.

For those of you watching, I can also use a good deal on a pre-72 toploader main case.  Yes, I may just start from scratch with the tranny.

Any suggestions on how to get the bushing out of the shift lever are welcome!

kcmash

 

[kcmash]

OK,

Learned a little more today.  Yes, they changed the shift rod for the 3/4 and the shift lever to clear this D2AR feature.  I did find the correct shift rod an lever through a Hurst Shifter expert.  So I am now anxiously waiting on those parts.

I guess I have become more educated on this subject than I had hoped.

Thanks for the help from the forum!

kcmash

 

[73pony]

Hope the new parts work.

 

[kcmash]

Time for a break!

Humidity 80%, temp mid 80's

Waiting on the shifter parts so I decide its a good day to double check the valve lash settings.

1) Discover that you cannot remove Boss valve covers without removing shock tower braces

2) Sweating my A$$ off with little movement

3) Still have the front of the car high on jack stands for shifter work, so valve cover work is at a high angle.

4) Ready!  Try to bump the car to TDC for first lash check and realize the car is in gear!

5) I must give thanks to God at this point, because in spite of the lunge forward the car only rocked the jack stands and did not lunge off the front side and land on me.

6) With the 3-4 rod and lever removed it's tough to CONFIRM she is in Nuetral.

I am out of the garage for now...

kcmash

 

[Don C]

I think all of us that have been around and worked on cars a lot have had close calls or have known someone who was injured by someone cranking a car while in gear, or not pushing the clutch in. Glad to hear you didn't get hurt, and your car didn't drop off the jack stands.

 

[kcmash]

Got the new 3/4 shift rod from Bill Heeley shifters.   See the attached changes between the 71 rid and the 72 rod.  The extra bends at the shift lever end are to clear the new bosses and bolts on the D2AR cast number toploader case 

Just in case any of you are in a similar pickle.



40 sided dice

 

[kcmash]

Drove it today with the new linkage.  It goes tight into all gears now.

Question of the day.  Did the Ram Air cars have a taller air cleaner element?

kcmash

 

[jpaz]

That’s great! Glad to hear you got it figured out and working good.

 

[boilermaster]

Drove it today with the new linkage.  It goes tight into all gears now.

Question of the day.  Did the Ram Air cars have a taller air cleaner element?

kcmash

Glad to see you got it all sorted KC.                                                                                                                   Boilermaster