Our 73 Mach1

[ejnonamaker]

Well since we picked her up in June we've cleaned the wheels and serviced all the moving parts. Going to put a set of Cooper Cobra Radial GT's on next month. I have 14x7 wheels so I was thinking 215/70/14 all around.

We have 90% of the interior removed. Currently getting read of the surface rust. Then it'll be time to weld in new floor pans and the metal portion of the package tray.

We're trying to piece together underneath the engine compartment. The AC was completely drained and hoses disconnected. This is my last priority though. Where I am stuck right now is here...

I've got the PCV valve in the oil cap and the original rubber hose. I finally found the metal tube to connect it to the rear of the carb. Then I ran into the power brake assist being attached to where I thought the metal tube went. Should I have a T back here to connect both or am I completely wrong here?

Additionally I get two stories from people and diagrams when I look at the passenger side valve cover. I see just a 90° elbow from the valve cover going to the small filter inside the air cleaner. Then I see or hear someplace else on the '73 only it should be the F shaped elbow on the passenger side valve cover with one line going to the small filter. No guidance on the other portion of the F shaped elbow. Is it just capped off or is it suppose to go somewhere or is the L shaped elbow correct?

Look forward to posting here, sharing experiences, reading yours, and gaining a wealth of knowledge.


Here are a couple of exterior pictures shortly after we got it home.

 

[mach71351c]

I would go with 225/70/14s. 215s are a little small.

 

[Mikes73]

Welcome to the forum, your car reminds me of what mine looked like when we bought it.

 

[ejnonamaker]

I would go with 225/70/14s. 215s are a little small.

Do the 225's fit pretty well with no rubbing or do you have to do some spacers/hammering to make them work? The back currently has 235/60/14 so I know that area is good.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Hey Eric!

225s on 14" rims are pizza cutters compared to some of the wheel/tire combos others are running.

I actually have 245/60R15s up front, and 295/50R15s out back on mine. You'll be fine. ::thumb::

I have a '71, and my engine has been heavily modified, so I can't speak to what was factory proper for your car. But typically, the PCV valve goes to a small filter attached to the air cleaner, or has multiple breathers. Vacuum for the brake booster should be routed to a 'clean' vacuum source, typically a dedicated source on the intake manifold or the base of the carb. Some of the other guys will have the right information for you on the proper vacuum & PCV routing.

Looks like it's going to be a fun project! Good luck with it and keep us posted - we love seeing these awesome cars come back together!

 

[73pony]

Cool project. Glad your son wants to be involved. Growing up my dad and I always wanted to restore a Mustang together but never got the chance. He passed away back in 2010 and that's when my search started to get one and do a resto-mod of sorts just like we had planned. My daughter is excited and loves to "help out dad" in the garage.

 

[mach71351c]

I would go with 225/70/14s. 215s are a little small.

Do the 225's fit pretty well with no rubbing or do you have to do some spacers/hammering to make them work? The back currently has 235/60/14 so I know that area is good.

They will fit no problem.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Well since we picked her up in June we've cleaned the wheels and serviced all the moving parts. Going to put a set of Cooper Cobra Radial GT's on next month. I have 14x7 wheels so I was thinking 215/70/14 all around.

We have 90% of the interior removed. Currently getting read of the surface rust. Then it'll be time to weld in new floor pans and the metal portion of the package tray.

We're trying to piece together underneath the engine compartment. The AC was completely drained and hoses disconnected. This is my last priority though. Where I am stuck right now is here...

I've got the PCV valve in the oil cap and the original rubber hose. I finally found the metal tube to connect it to the rear of the carb. Then I ran into the power brake assist being attached to where I thought the metal tube went. Should I have a T back here to connect both or am I completely wrong here?

Additionally I get two stories from people and diagrams when I look at the passenger side valve cover. I see just a 90° elbow from the valve cover going to the small filter inside the air cleaner. Then I see or hear someplace else on the '73 only it should be the F shaped elbow on the passenger side valve cover with one line going to the small filter. No guidance on the other portion of the F shaped elbow. Is it just capped off or is it suppose to go somewhere or is the L shaped elbow correct?

Look forward to posting here, sharing experiences, reading yours, and gaining a wealth of knowledge.


Here are a couple of exterior pictures shortly after we got it home.

Hello,

I have a very original 73 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed, 12,000 miles. I put a couple pictures under the hood so you can see how this one is. I will pull the air cleaner today and maybe get some more pictures. It is very dusty has been sitting there since 1983.

If you want specific pictures just ask.

Here are some more pictures with air cleaner moved.

David

 

[ejnonamaker]

Here are some pics from what we've done so far.


Here are some more.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

A couple of things

What is your goal for the car? Are you looking to build a driver, or for a correct restoration?

Also, the heavily rusted area on the interior of that wheel may be a problem. It can result in a wheel that may not hold air properly. 14's are commonly available if you want to source a replacement. If your budget at this time doesn't allow that, then I would suggest that with the inside very clean that you treat the area with rust converter. If there is rust on the bead surface, the tire may not seal well.

Using a nitrogen inflation often will help, but you may also want to paint the inside of the rims or use slime to minimize leaks.

 

[ejnonamaker]

A couple of things

What is your goal for the car? Are you looking to build a driver, or for a correct restoration?

Also, the heavily rusted area on the interior of that wheel may be a problem. It can result in a wheel that may not hold air properly. 14's are commonly available if you want to source a replacement. If your budget at this time doesn't allow that, then I would suggest that with the inside very clean that you treat the area with rust converter. If there is rust on the bead surface, the tire may not seal well.

Using a nitrogen inflation often will help, but you may also want to paint the inside of the rims or use slime to minimize leaks.

We're building a driver. That's what these things were made for in my opinion. Not to sit around and look pretty.

That rust is all gone on the wheels. They've been holding their own sitting on the shelf for 8 months with no new corrosion. They received a thorough cleaning and refinishing.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Okay, for a driver, the simplest way to run the PCV is to vent one valve cover to a breather on the air cleaner and the other should valve cover should be equipped with a pcv valve which draws full manifold vacuum from the large port usually attached to the base of the carb. Nothing more complicated is necessary. If you don't use a breather and just use a solid cap, the engine will build excessive crankcase pressure and possibly spit out the oil dipstick.

 

[ejnonamaker]

Okay, for a driver, the simplest way to run the PCV is to vent one valve cover to a breather on the air cleaner and the other should valve cover should be equipped with a pcv valve which draws full manifold vacuum from the large port usually attached to the base of the carb. Nothing more complicated is necessary. If you don't use a breather and just use a solid cap, the engine will build excessive crankcase pressure and possibly spit out the oil dipstick.

Thanks. I've got lines running every which direction, pieces cut off, and hoses hooked up to where they shouldn't be. I've got all my pieces now for the PCV. Just trying to get everything pointed in the right direction again.

The oil cap side of the PCV is going to get routed back to the bottom of the carb tomorrow now that I have the metal tube and it's all cleaned up. Then I'm still not sure if I'm suppose to have an L shaped, F shaped, or straight nipple to go from the passenger side to the breather on the air filter. All three pieces are available within a 5 mile drive so no biggie.

The diagram for a 1973 351C 2V shows part 6767 (nipple type) but I keep getting told I need the F type elbow. I keep getting told that by folks with a 351C 4V Ram Air though. I say that because I have no idea what the second nipple of that F elbow would link up with.

My intake manifold has three hook ups on the stem located in the back. The power brake booster is going to be hooked back up there. I'm only to assume that the other two are suppose to run something on the A/C system which is present but completely disconnected.

Unless something for the emissions hooks up back there to. I haven't dove to hard in to the diagrams for the emissions or A/C system as of yet. Getting there slowly but surely.

 

[ejnonamaker]

So I was looking at the tires that are currently on the car. The fronts are way worse than the backs dry root wise. It's sad because the tread depth is near brand new. The fronts are 225/70/15. For some reason I though they were 205's. The back has 245/60/14's.

I was going to go 225/70/14 all around. Now I'm thinking 235/60/14 on all four. I want to keep it even all around and I want a wider tread without breaking the bank. Seems any bigger goes up significantly. I know they'll be okay in the back. Thought on any issues with rubbing in the front? Thoughts in general on a good size for highway driving and twisty West Virginia backroads?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

235's will clear without a problem, I ran them on my car with 15" wheels initially after I bought it. They handle pretty well.

 

[ejnonamaker]

Thanks! Like I said I want a wide tread more for touring than dragging. I don't want the wheel wells to look empty either. I'm not a fan yet of the bigger wheels with smaller sidewall profile tires on the classics yet.

 

[ejnonamaker]

Got our new floor pans put in today. lol Atleast the ones that will let me move around inside without falling through the rusted out ones.

 

[73pony]

Sweet. Did I mention I love the old school chain steering wheel?

 

[ejnonamaker]

You weren't a cool cat in the 70's unless you had a chain steering wheel, man. Actually I think the previous over had it on here as a shop steering wheel. I found the original two spoke wheel in a box in the backseat. I'm thinking of putting on a Grant steering wheel vs restoring the original for now.