Paint Stripping Q

[sm3570]

I know Roy sanded his car to bare metal, so I have a question for him or anyone else that has done it before...

...I got some quotes to have my car media blasted. After recovering from sticker shock, how long should it take if I sand/wire wheel to bare metal? I don't have the money for a compressor and tools at the moment, so I'm thinking of using this. I've heard and read good things about it for stripping paint and such.

Time really isn't an issue, I'm just curious how long it took Roy to do his (I'm assuming he used an air DA sander).

God, I with I had more money for a proper shop.

 

[MotoArts]

How long? In my opinion, it takes 2 days past forever...

Much depends on what exactly you're going to sand to bare metal and how many repaints it's had. If you're doing jambs and underhood... call it 4 days past...

I was quoted $400 to media a '67 coupe rolling shell that had one repaint and was degreased, inside and out. I thought that was an INCREDIBLY good deal, but sold the car before I started on it.

Consider the cost of electric, the proper (large capacity) compressor, tools and several rolls of GOOD DA paper, and cleanup...

My '71 isn't in that bad of shape to need blasting. One crusty enamel repaint done a zillion years ago, and they didn't do the jambs so there's less to scuff. Everything's fairly nice to begin with, but I'm still not looking forward to the sanding.

 

[sm3570]

I'm still debating taking it all the way down. I may just take it down to primer and then re-evaluate. The body is in pretty good shape with pretty minor rust which I'll obviously take those spots down to metal. Basically I have a two week window (2 weekends and weekdays after work) to get the prep done. I'm not going for show quality, but I do want a good base to work from. My last media blast quote (rolling shell, inside and out) was $2300 (revised to $1800) and I can't afford that. I had another quote that was lower but he wouldn't do the entire body.

 

[Mr Mac]

Air compressor from Lowe's is a good deal for those of us on a budget. This is the last day for it though.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

I'm still debating taking it all the way down. I may just take it down to primer and then re-evaluate. The body is in pretty good shape with pretty minor rust which I'll obviously take those spots down to metal. Basically I have a two week window (2 weekends and weekdays after work) to get the prep done. I'm not going for show quality, but I do want a good base to work from. My last media blast quote (rolling shell, inside and out) was $2300 (revised to $1800) and I can't afford that. I had another quote that was lower but he wouldn't do the entire body.

Why dont you post some pics of what you have and let us debate wether media blast it or not?

Ive never sandblasted any car till now... i really dont trust the super power the sandblaster machines have, hitting good plane areas so i always end up old school, with paint remover and sanding the surfaces by hand...

 

[dohebert]

I've used those 3M nylon stripping wheels to go to bare metal - got the fat side stripes off a '73 that way; just takes time and you're likely to burn up a standard drill or two.

 

[sm3570]

I'm still debating taking it all the way down. I may just take it down to primer and then re-evaluate. The body is in pretty good shape with pretty minor rust which I'll obviously take those spots down to metal. Basically I have a two week window (2 weekends and weekdays after work) to get the prep done. I'm not going for show quality, but I do want a good base to work from. My last media blast quote (rolling shell, inside and out) was $2300 (revised to $1800) and I can't afford that. I had another quote that was lower but he wouldn't do the entire body.

Why dont you post some pics of what you have and let us debate wether media blast it or not?

Ive never sandblasted any car till now... i really dont trust the super power the sandblaster machines have, hitting good plane areas so i always end up old school, with paint remover and sanding the surfaces by hand...

In a couple weeks I'm going to start sanding it. When I get it down to primer I'll snap some pics and see what you guys think. On cursory inspection I've found about a half dozen small spots where the paint has blistered and some pinholing in the right rear quarter (by the wheel well). Other than that, there does not appear to be any bad spots but we'll find out when I get the paint off!

Air compressor from Lowe's is a good deal for those of us on a budget. This is the last day for it though.

That was a good deal, but I don't think it pushes enough air for a DA sander. I'd need between 10 and 15 SCFM to be able to sand consistently. And my garage isn't big enough for a good air comp!

 

[Tnfastbk]

Go for it, no doubts when you are done

 

[RollTideMach]

I like it TNFASTBACK, clear it and call it good. I would use an aircraft stripper first to get rid of the bulk of the paint then da/orbital what little is left off to a clean bare metal.

 

[Tnfastbk]

I like it TNFASTBACK, clear it and call it good. I would use an aircraft stripper first to get rid of the bulk of the paint then da/orbital what little is left off to a clean bare metal.

To late......................

 

[PAPPY HAROLD]

I'm sure this will get some long faces when read, But heres what i do. I do have lots of air, so i use my air tools but you could go electric. Anyhow I cut it with a 36 grit disk on a circular grinder. If you keep the disk fairly flat and only use say half of it, it will be smoother than you might think. If you stand it on edge it will be alittle ruffer, but it wont kill you. then go back over it with 80 grit on a dual action sander (DA) . Then a good coat of primer and (DA) with 180 or just start block sanding and I will almost promise you wont have any deep scratches, if your skill is half way good. I still like the old Lacquer primer surfacer. It builds well, dries fast, and is still fairly economical in price. I have never had any type of topcoat react in a negative way when using it. I have topcoated with practically all of the new type finishes. Your idea of stripping might also work well, I just hate the mess. My version isnt the only way, just saves alittle time. Oh and I painted my first car in 1965 and am still learning everyday.

 

[sm3570]

I like it TNFASTBACK, clear it and call it good. I would use an aircraft stripper first to get rid of the bulk of the paint then da/orbital what little is left off to a clean bare metal.

To late......................

I'm sure this will get some long faces when read, But heres what i do. I do have lots of air, so i use my air tools but you could go electric. Anyhow I cut it with a 36 grit disk on a circular grinder. If you keep the disk fairly flat and only use say half of it, it will be smoother than you might think. If you stand it on edge it will be alittle ruffer, but it wont kill you. then go back over it with 80 grit on a dual action sander (DA) . Then a good coat of primer and (DA) with 180 or just start block sanding and I will almost promise you wont have any deep scratches, if your skill is half way good. I still like the old Lacquer primer surfacer. It builds well, dries fast, and is still fairly economical in price. I have never had any type of topcoat react in a negative way when using it. I have topcoated with practically all of the new type finishes. Your idea of stripping might also work well, I just hate the mess. My version isnt the only way, just saves alittle time. Oh and I painted my first car in 1965 and am still learning everyday.

Thanks for the info Pappy. I'll post some pics when I get it down to the primer, I may take it all the way down I'm just not sure yet.

BTW, I like your avatar. I have it as my desktop background.

 

[PAPPY HAROLD]

I stole the avatar off the net. The car belongs to a fellow in Chicago. Mine looks nothing like it now, but it is my cars original color, so the pic is my Dream. The red interior really caught my eye.

 

[Hemikiller]

If you don't have a compressor, then I suggest you seriously consider saving up for one and diving into the air tool pool. Working on the car will be much easier once you have made the investment and have the tools on hand.

As far as paint stripping, I used a DA with 60 grit discs down to bare metal. I probably could have gone to 36, but I used what I had bought and it went quickly anyway. The key is to buy GOOD quality discs with a Stearate anti-clog treatment. This makes the disc last at least double over the cheapos. Stick with name brands, Norton, 3M, Standard etc.

Once you get it to bare metal, you need to protect it from flash rust. I used SEM Rust Mort on the areas that had major surface rust and POR15 Metal Ready on areas I had blasted.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

I agree with Pappy and hemikiller in the skins and as i said before, i never sandblasted a car before but i don´t think a good straigt car deserves the power crashing into a hood or a roof of a sandblaster... I´ve heard it can even dent the metal sheet so, in my opinion, a sandblaster is excelent for the floors, engine bays, etc but i wouldnt use this process in a good skin because if the surface is flat enough you can easily go to the bare metal by sanding it old school...

If you are fully rusted (like my 70 coupé that Pappy nows very well)... a hand or even orbital air sanding is not the best choice... you are not going to go to the soul of the rust by sanding that´s for sure...

well.. hope it helps!! keep us up to date!!

 

[sm3570]

Hey Damian, there is little rust so far. I'm mostly worried about around the windows, the A-pillars and the rear quarters. The cowl looks good. When I really get into it I'll know more.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Well steve, i really dont think you should sandblast your hole car... I've seen your pics and your car is not bad at all...

The thing is if i were you i wouldnt take all the old paint off at all... I dont think it is a need in your particular case...

Anyway, i'm too old school maybe and living in here is another thing that counts... Why remove some firm material just to add bad quality bondo on it?! That's how i have to think sometimes...

If you are going for a full to the metal thing, you can sandblast it if you are willing to strip every nut, use a rotteserie and go for a full restoration Or if you are looking for a paint Job, i'll go with Pappy method.. Working skin by skin manually... I trust it better as im never comfortable with taking my car from shop to shop... Everything i can do it myself is what i go for...

What are the worst rusted part Steve? Arround the windshield and the backglass?! Are you planning on fixing that yourself?!

 

[coilwire]

Steve have you concidered soda blasting. I had that done on my daughters '77 mustang and it came out real good. Using that media I didn"t

take out the side windowsand not a scratch on them.

Jim

 

[PAPPY HAROLD]

I havent been on for awhile, work has taken my time. My stang just sits out there missing me. But I just read the posts on your thread and am Loving it. Everything the guys have told you are all perfect in my humble opinion. There are many options, depending on your skill level and of course your WALLET. Again to go back to my perfered method, I have worked the exterior of every panel by hand without blasting, but when i get into the final prep and cleanup I will use my cheap little blaster to get into the tight areas, and probably a lite blast on the undercarrige, just to get rid of the trash. but i'm not looking to use my finish color on the underneath, just clean it up and probably por 15 or rust bullet on the undercarrige. I plan on driving this thing and not just polishing it. NO TRAILER QUEENS IN MY SHOP.. As crocidile dunnde said, GET INTO IT MATE. Good luck....