POR 15 Rust Preventive

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I will offer an alternative http://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/ .I think this stuff is great but needs to be coated with CIP primer if using 2k . If you are doing a test make sure and give it a go.

ps, do try out over rust,

U.S version http://www.owatrolusa.com/index.php?langue=en&page=products-owatrol-oil
It cost too much to do another will probably have $75.00 in doing two brands. I think they are pretty much all the same stuff just different names on the containers. They all look sort of the same you can get different colors. They just keep the air and water away so the rust stops. I have heard horror stories from both and great success from both so I think it is how they were applied. Both hate to have the surface washed with lacquer thinner or any petroleum base. You have to use water base and not touch anything.

Just like paint some jobs just go bad and some come out great using everything the same. I think the ArmorAll is one of the worst things to happen to cars. If it has been used on a car it screws up everything you try to do with paint or dye.

Will see how it goes.

David

 
I will offer an alternative http://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/ .I think this stuff is great but needs to be coated with CIP primer if using 2k . If you are doing a test make sure and give it a go.

ps, do try out over rust,

U.S version http://www.owatrolusa.com/index.php?langue=en&page=products-owatrol-oil
It cost too much to do another will probably have $75.00 in doing two brands. I think they are pretty much all the same stuff just different names on the containers. They all look sort of the same you can get different colors. They just keep the air and water away so the rust stops. I have heard horror stories from both and great success from both so I think it is how they were applied. Both hate to have the surface washed with lacquer thinner or any petroleum base. You have to use water base and not touch anything.

Just like paint some jobs just go bad and some come out great using everything the same. I think the ArmorAll is one of the worst things to happen to cars. If it has been used on a car it screws up everything you try to do with paint or dye.

Will see how it goes.

David
I totally understand about the cost but I still stand by the product as it is not the same stuff in a different tin, I was of the same opinion when my local paint store pushed it and didn't use it for a long time, now I am a convert. Owatrol is a clear product and its adhesion is great and won't require any fancy prep.(if you ever get the chance have a look at it)

I do love that van by the way do you have the front for it?

Stephen

 
I will offer an alternative http://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/ .I think this stuff is great but needs to be coated with CIP primer if using 2k . If you are doing a test make sure and give it a go.

ps, do try out over rust,

U.S version http://www.owatrolusa.com/index.php?langue=en&page=products-owatrol-oil
It cost too much to do another will probably have $75.00 in doing two brands. I think they are pretty much all the same stuff just different names on the containers. They all look sort of the same you can get different colors. They just keep the air and water away so the rust stops. I have heard horror stories from both and great success from both so I think it is how they were applied. Both hate to have the surface washed with lacquer thinner or any petroleum base. You have to use water base and not touch anything.

Just like paint some jobs just go bad and some come out great using everything the same. I think the ArmorAll is one of the worst things to happen to cars. If it has been used on a car it screws up everything you try to do with paint or dye.

Will see how it goes.

David
I totally understand about the cost but I still stand by the product as it is not the same stuff in a different tin, I was of the same opinion when my local paint store pushed it and didn't use it for a long time, now I am a convert. Owatrol is a clear product and its adhesion is great and won't require any fancy prep.(if you ever get the chance have a look at it)

I do love that van by the way do you have the front for it?

Stephen
I do not have the front but they are common to the Ford pick up doors forward is same, part of the F-1 series trucks. A 1948 to 1954 front will fit I think. They actually make one piece tip off front ends for them. All the glass, rubber and trim are available new from Dennis Carpenter. One of the members is coming to look at it from Tennessee this week end if he can convince wife, lol.

I posted a pic of how it would look complete.

I will have to see who carries your suggested product here. Sounds like you had great results.

David

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Regarding Evaporust

Larger items can be cleaned by placing in a kiddie pool or something similar and using a fountain pump to recirculate the fluid-you just move the nozzle periodically to get every area treated. Using plastic sheeting 5 gallons can do an entire car supposedly

I've used it on rusted tools and it works great and it is truly no odor. Didn't hurt the rubber handles at all. They also make a rust block spray which i think is a pretty similar product. I've use it on bare metal and it works.

 
I have used a fair amount of POR 15 in several applications, including the tie coat primer. It is basically a marine grade epoxy when you get down to it, I would never ever do it over rust. I take everything bare and do it right. My only negative comments would be price of course. But you get what you pay for. Be careful which black you use if it is exposed. most people tend to go with the chassis black which will be affected by UV over time and can change color a bit over time. So a redo area sticks out like a sore thumb. I use the glossy black over the silver each time, and have yet to experience any peeling. Some POR has been in place since 2004. I like it , never tried the rust bullet, probably never will. I have too much POR in the garage.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have used a fair amount of POR 15 in several applications, including the tie coat primer. It is basically a marine grade epoxy when you get down to it, I would never ever do it over rust. I take everything bare and do it right. My only negative comments would be price of course. But you get what you pay for. Be careful which black you use if it is exposed. most people tend to go with the chassis black which will be affected by UV over time and can change color a bit over time. So a redo area sticks out like a sore thumb. I use the glossy black over the silver each time, and have yet to experience any peeling. Some POR has been in place since 2004. I like it , never tried the rust bullet, probably never will. I have too much POR in the garage.
Another good report, thanks for letting us know. I do think both will work better than just putting primer on. The rep had told me that the silver is the only one with actual ground up aluminum that settles into the low spots to help level the surface as long as it is not vertical or on an angle.

I received the Rust Bullet Metal Blast rust dissolver and the Double shot starter kit on Tuesday. Since I am selling the panel truck I have decided to do half of the inside of the trunk of the 73 vert with POR 15 and half with the Rust Bullet and see how they do side by side. I will put some on a rusty panel just to see how they do when the rust is not cleaned off to shiny metal. See if the rust stops or if it just peels off.

Like a friend told me this stuff is worse than anti seize about getting everywhere. It drips, spatters from the brush and you end up with little spots all over you. All I did was inside the cowl, need to wear a has mat suit, lol.

 
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