Pulling the trigger on my 351C rebuild

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The only draw back of sleeves is that installing them is a very expensive operation because it is time consuming. compared to just boring the cylinders oversize. If it was my only option to save my original block, I would sleeve it no matter how much it cost. I am @ .30 over as of now. I am fortunate to have a good machine shop in town that I also worked for. I did not burn that bridge lol.

Ron
Always a good reason to lave a place on great terms. I would prefer just to overbore it than have to go the sleeve route, but like you I would love to save the original block as long as thats on the table. I obviously have no way of knowing right now, but I want to assume it was probably bored a little with the first rebuild/sleeve. But I have zero info on it, aside from being told it was rebuilt with a sleeve.
 
Always a good reason to lave a place on great terms. I would prefer just to overbore it than have to go the sleeve route, but like you I would love to save the original block as long as thats on the table. I obviously have no way of knowing right now, but I want to assume it was probably bored a little with the first rebuild/sleeve. But I have zero info on it, aside from being told it was rebuilt with a sleeve.
It is tough when dealing with a 50+ year old engine and relying on people's perceived memories of what had been done to it. That is if they even really know. My parents bought my car new so I pretty much know everything about it. As a side note I tend to stay in a job for a very long time and always left on good terms even if I disliked who I worked for.

Ron
 
Curious

Does your Mustang have staggered shocks and if so how did the Pypes tail pipes fit?
Thanks
I do not have staggered shocks. Here's a run-down of the underside of mine (driver side rear shock is not in the car as I had just reinstalled the rear axle from being refurbished).
exhaust3.jpg
exhaust4.jpg
rearaxle12.jpg
 
It is tough when dealing with a 50+ year old engine and relying on people's perceived memories of what had been done to it. That is if they even really know. My parents bought my car new so I pretty much know everything about it. As a side note I tend to stay in a job for a very long time and always left on good terms even if I disliked who I worked for.

Ron
In my case, I am technically the 3rd owner. The original owner ordered it from Sanderson Ford in AZ, and was also an employee there. He sold it to the guys dad, who's son I bought it from. Had zero paperwork to go with the supposed rebuild, but it was done at least 8+ years ago since the plate tag was 2015, and it was parked even before that. I do believe it was gone through because the engine itself is very dry and grease free. My guess is the rebuild went wrong and they parked it.
 
In my case, I am technically the 3rd owner. The original owner ordered it from Sanderson Ford in AZ, and was also an employee there. He sold it to the guys dad, who's son I bought it from. Had zero paperwork to go with the supposed rebuild, but it was done at least 8+ years ago since the plate tag was 2015, and it was parked even before that. I do believe it was gone through because the engine itself is very dry and grease free. My guess is the rebuild went wrong and they parked it.
In my case, I am technically the 3rd owner. The original owner ordered it from Sanderson Ford in AZ, and was also an employee there. He sold it to the guys dad, who's son I bought it from. Had zero paperwork to go with the supposed rebuild, but it was done at least 8+ years ago since the plate tag was 2015, and it was parked even before that. I do believe it was gone through because the engine itself is very dry and grease free. My guess is the rebuild went wrong and they parked it.
Well, it is then time to pull that trigger. Merry Christmas.

Ron
 
Pete, not to be a negative Nelly, but I wouldn’t count on anything the PO told me about the motor. Seems they weren’t completely honest about the efforts they put into it before you acquired it. If it was mine, I would park the engine and replace it with a new shortblock. There are many reliable places to get what you want, with a warranty. Your car is not particularly rare, so changing the engine shouldn’t be a deal breaker for a potential future sale. You can get the roller block you want, without buying something that’s modified, add heads, etc (just bring money).
 
Pete, not to be a negative Nelly, but I wouldn’t count on anything the PO told me about the motor. Seems they weren’t completely honest about the efforts they put into it before you acquired it. If it was mine, I would park the engine and replace it with a new shortblock. There are many reliable places to get what you want, with a warranty. Your car is not particularly rare, so changing the engine shouldn’t be a deal breaker for a potential future sale. You can get the roller block you want, without buying something that’s modified, add heads, etc (just bring money).
No of course not, and any all input is welcomed. Obviously the PO knew more about it than he led on. And its not like I could start tearing into the motor in his driveway before I purchased it. Ran into the same problem years ago when I bought a 70 cougar. It ran, albeit pretty rough, and was told the points were bad and was in need of a good tuneup. Dug into it, valve keepers on 1 and 2 were sitting under the valve covers, and the block was cracked. Price to pay for trusting some people in the car community unfortunately. I know its not an overly rare Mach 1, just thought it would be cool to keep the package together. Still have the original plate, original key tag, pic of the original title. Would be awesome to keep it all numbers matching, although not necessary. However I don't plan on selling it, so I guess a potential future sale isn't something I was thinking about. Do you think I should just pull the heads off, have those machined, new short block, and piece it all together that way? Or save all the hassle, and get an engine to just drop in. Place in AZ called Phoenix Engine has a complete 347 stroker, for $6600. Really just at a loss on what to do. Hate just staring at it in under a cover my carport for the last 8 months.

https://www.phoenixengine.com/Ford-16.html
https://www.fivestarengines.com/sho...n-key-high-performance-balanced-crate-engine/If you have the time or want, these are the pages I had been looking at
 
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No of course not, and any all input is welcomed. Obviously the PO knew more about it than he led on. And its not like I could start tearing into the motor in his driveway before I purchased it. Ran into the same problem years ago when I bought a 70 cougar. It ran, albeit pretty rough, and was told the points were bad and was in need of a good tuneup. Dug into it, valve keepers on 1 and 2 were sitting under the valve covers, and the block was cracked. Price to pay for trusting some people in the car community unfortunately. I know its not an overly rare Mach 1, just thought it would be cool to keep the package together. Still have the original plate, original key tag, pic of the original title. Would be awesome to keep it all numbers matching, although not necessary. However I don't plan on selling it, so I guess a potential future sale isn't something I was thinking about. Do you think I should just pull the heads off, have those machined, new short block, and piece it all together that way? Or save all the hassle, and get an engine to just drop in. Place in AZ called Phoenix Engine has a complete 347 stroker, for $6600. Really just at a loss on what to do. Hate just staring at it in under a cover my carport for the last 8 months.

https://www.phoenixengine.com/Ford-16.html
https://www.fivestarengines.com/sho...n-key-high-performance-balanced-crate-engine/If you have the time or want, these are the pages I had been looking at
Those are Windsor based engines not Clevelands. Not sure anyone does reman Clevelands.
 
Those are Windsor based engines not Clevelands. Not sure anyone does reman Clevelands.
Yeah I have spent the last couple weeks looking into it and have come up empty on finding a Cleveland. But for some reason just dawned on me that Cleveland to Windsor might require changing a lot of stuff? i'm obviously not thinking clearly
 
Yeah I have spent the last couple weeks looking into it and have come up empty on finding a Cleveland. But for some reason just dawned on me that Cleveland to Windsor might require changing a lot of stuff? i'm obviously not thinking clearly
Maybe do a Clevor
Windsor block with Cleveland heads.
You can find Cleveland blocks and such on eBay or market place.
Put your block in storage and find another one.
 
Pete, not to be a negative Nelly, but I wouldn’t count on anything the PO told me about the motor. Seems they weren’t completely honest about the efforts they put into it before you acquired it. If it was mine, I would park the engine and replace it with a new shortblock. There are many reliable places to get what you want, with a warranty. Your car is not particularly rare, so changing the engine shouldn’t be a deal breaker for a potential future sale. You can get the roller block you want, without buying something that’s modified, add heads, etc (just bring money).
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/7569787432.html
 
Stick with the Cleveland. Even a slightly warmed over 351C (with mild cam, aluminum intake, 4bbl, headers, etc.) is worth the effort. The driving and performance characteristics of the Cleveland vs the Windsor are very different. 351C is like having a big block without the weight.
 
Stick with the Cleveland. Even a slightly warmed over 351C (with mild cam, aluminum intake, 4bbl, headers, etc.) is worth the effort. The driving and performance characteristics of the Cleveland vs the Windsor are very different. 351C is like having a big block without the weight.
I am going to do all I can to keep the block that I have. Full tear down and start from the ground up. Just seeing what some options were if for whatever reason my original block was unusable. Which I doubt, but who knows until you get in there.
 
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