Question for you welders

[1971coupe]

Okay while I do understand that welding is an art. I do respect the amazing talent in the skill it takes to weld and make it a clean and strong joint. I lack this skill and equipment. I need to have floor pans welded in to my coupe. I am buying the pans and I just need a skilled welder. I have been turned down by 2 welders already because it's so old of a car and another guy on the phone quoted me 2000 to do the work. So the question is what would you charge a person for the work? I mean does it take anything more than to cut out the old, put in the new, and weld it down? If the old pans get cut out is the body going to twist and go out of whack?(was told this) I'm just amazed that I'm having such a hard time finding a reasonable person for the job. Let me know please. ( I know none of you are close enough to do the work I just was curious)

 

[Qcode351mach]

Okay while I do understand that welding is an art. I do respect the amazing talent in the skill it takes to weld and make it a clean and strong joint. I lack this skill and equipment. I need to have floor pans welded in to my coupe. I am buying the pans and I just need a skilled welder. I have been turned down by 2 welders already because it's so old of a car and another guy on the phone quoted me 2000 to do the work. So the question is what would you charge a person for the work? I mean does it take anything more than to cut out the old, put in the new, and weld it down? If the old pans get cut out is the body going to twist and go out of whack?(was told this) I'm just amazed that I'm having such a hard time finding a reasonable person for the job. Let me know please. ( I know none of you are close enough to do the work I just was curious)

There's alot more to it than just "cut out the old, put in the new" If you want the right job...You can bet on it, that inside the front rail extension is gonna have rust..the rear torque box may need a repair..Are you gonna just leave it ? Who's removing the interior & putting it back..Do you want a butt weld(non visible repair) or overlap ? The car wont go out of whack & twist if it's supported right & ONLY 1 SIDE IS DONE AT A TIME ! As someone who did this type of work for over 25 years I won't even quote the price by the job..strictly time & materials..For me your looking $75.00 per hour.. for the pans AFTER the interior is out..$2000.00 is more than fair for a true pro..I would check his prior work..You don't need a welder you need a COMPETENT AUTO BODY SHOP

You can see whats involved at my site herehttp://www.saturdaymorninggarage.com/ Scroll down to "stang floors welded in..

 

[docweld]

You put that very well Scott!! most non welder think and say to me.... it's just a simple weld it should not be much$$$ they do not understand the amount of prep work just to start welding... if they are good welders.

again you put that very well.

1971 coupe, I would like Scott said see if they have ever done this before and how it turned out. there are a lot of ( I think I am a welder) out there!!! I have had to fix many welds that other people have done.

I hope this helped.

 

[72fastback]

dito on the body shop. I am a professional welder but have never welded on a car yet apart from some mufflers. I would need to ask a lot of questions before attempting to do that kind of work. I am not saying I wouldn't do it but I would do it on {MY} car. If a guy asked me to do a floor job for him At this point in time I would send him to a body shop. You have to understand that most welding is done on much thicker steel. So someone who works in ornamental iron work or construction does not necessarily have the skill to work on a classic car. Also welding on a car is a slow process I would think because you can't heat up the steel to much to avoid warping. And that results in a lot of hours to do a job.

 

[1971coupe]

Well as a non welder or body type guy I guess I've been put in my place. Although at 75.00 an hour to get too 2000 that is over 3 days of work. Being 8 hr days. I guess I'm in shock that would be the going rate for the floor pans. Well at this point I'm not sure what to do. With purchase price of 4100, plus the other 500 to 1000 I have already put it, plus the other min of 500 to get it road worthy, now 2000 for floor pans. Wrap that all up with a teenager son that is waiting to drive this car who is already 17 and has no other transportation to get to and from school and to and from a job. Starting to think I should jump out now. Guess I have a lot to think about. Thanks again for the advice and help.

 

[Widowmaker00]

Well as a non welder or body type guy I guess I've been put in my place. Although at 75.00 an hour to get too 2000 that is over 3 days of work. Being 8 hr days. I guess I'm in shock that would be the going rate for the floor pans. Well at this point I'm not sure what to do. With purchase price of 4100, plus the other 500 to 1000 I have already put it, plus the other min of 500 to get it road worthy, now 2000 for floor pans. Wrap that all up with a teenager son that is waiting to drive this car who is already 17 and has no other transportation to get to and from school and to and from a job. Starting to think I should jump out now. Guess I have a lot to think about. Thanks again for the advice and help.

Buy a welder and learn to weld?

 

[72Q-code]

Well as a non welder or body type guy I guess I've been put in my place. Although at 75.00 an hour to get too 2000 that is over 3 days of work. Being 8 hr days. I guess I'm in shock that would be the going rate for the floor pans. Well at this point I'm not sure what to do. With purchase price of 4100, plus the other 500 to 1000 I have already put it, plus the other min of 500 to get it road worthy, now 2000 for floor pans. Wrap that all up with a teenager son that is waiting to drive this car who is already 17 and has no other transportation to get to and from school and to and from a job. Starting to think I should jump out now. Guess I have a lot to think about. Thanks again for the advice and help.

There is yet another path, which is to become a skilled welder. Welding is an art, but with practice, patience and a little guidance, it is a not impossible to learn. Rust repair IMHO is not one of those things you can subcontract on our cars. It is simply too time consuming and expensive to hire a skilled fabricator to do. As you have leaned, you can get upside down very quickly on a car if you do.

For much less than the cost of having your pans done you can buy a decent mig welder, especially if you look used. After that practice is really really cheap! Do you have any fellow car guys (they do not have to be Mustang guys) that might be willing to give you some hands on lessons in exchange for a pizza and some beer? If I were close I would.

You mention the 17 year old, and that's perfect. The two of you can challenge each other to see who can master welding better. I started oxyacetylene welding at about that age. Hand-eye coordination is a big part of welding, and it is pretty good at that age.

Welding is something that many people are scared of. Just like anything it will take time to learn, but it is a skill that once you have mastered, you look at the world and project cars differently. If you like it and become accomplished, it can be a great way to pick up some extra $$$, especially for a young person looking to earn some college book money...hint hint.

If neither of you like it you can sell the welder after the project (or before if you really despise it!) and get most of your money back, especially if you start with a quality used welder.

An option to think about before you bail on the car.

~Jim

 

[Qcode351mach]

Well as a non welder or body type guy I guess I've been put in my place. Although at 75.00 an hour to get too 2000 that is over 3 days of work. Being 8 hr days. I guess I'm in shock that would be the going rate for the floor pans. Well at this point I'm not sure what to do. With purchase price of 4100, plus the other 500 to 1000 I have already put it, plus the other min of 500 to get it road worthy, now 2000 for floor pans. Wrap that all up with a teenager son that is waiting to drive this car who is already 17 and has no other transportation to get to and from school and to and from a job. Starting to think I should jump out now. Guess I have a lot to think about. Thanks again for the advice and help.

Buy a welder and learn to weld?

$75.00 is the going rate in my neck of the woods(tri-state area) for structural work /frame work/ restoration, in other areas of the country it's much cheaper..But factored into that is insurance, workers comp, elec heat ,rent..etc..Everything is so darn expensive these days..It's killing people..I think that's why you see so many diyers..To be frank you couldn't pay me enough to work, do that job on someones else s car..I've had my full it's dirty nasty work & you need to be set up properly to do it safely. Not to burst your bubble but unless you've restored a car before it can be a real opener $$$$ wise..A car that needs a restoration isn't a car for a 17 year that needs good reliable transportation..It's a car for a father & son to tackle together as time & funds permit...The bonding & memories you make doing a car that way will last forever & your son will never forget it ! Put it on the back burner..get him a good reliable everyday ride & work on it together as time & funds permit ! Or as 72-Q said

 

[not2old]

Good luck, and as mentioned be careful. You are replacing structure integrity

 

[72fastback]

$75.00 is the going rate in my neck of the woods(tri-state area) for structural work /frame work/ restoration, in other areas of the country it's much cheaper..But factored into that is insurance, workers comp, elec heat ,rent..etc..Everything is so darn expensive these days..It's killing people..I think that's why you see so many diyers..To be frank you couldn't pay me enough to work, do that job on someones else s car..I've had my full it's dirty nasty work & you need to be set up properly to do it safely. Not to burst your bubble but unless you've restored a car before it can be a real opener $$$$ wise..A car that needs a restoration isn't a car for a 17 year that needs good reliable transportation..It's a car for a father & son to tackle together as time & funds permit...The bonding & memories you make doing a car that way will last forever & your son will never forget it ! Put it on the back burner..get him a good reliable everyday ride & work on it together as time & funds permit ! Or as 72-Q said

great answer Q-CODE

 

[docweld]

Well as a non welder or body type guy I guess I've been put in my place. Although at 75.00 an hour to get too 2000 that is over 3 days of work. Being 8 hr days. I guess I'm in shock that would be the going rate for the floor pans. Well at this point I'm not sure what to do. With purchase price of 4100, plus the other 500 to 1000 I have already put it, plus the other min of 500 to get it road worthy, now 2000 for floor pans. Wrap that all up with a teenager son that is waiting to drive this car who is already 17 and has no other transportation to get to and from school and to and from a job. Starting to think I should jump out now. Guess I have a lot to think about. Thanks again for the advice and help.

Buy a welder and learn to weld?

$75.00 is the going rate in my neck of the woods(tri-state area) for structural work /frame work/ restoration, in other areas of the country it's much cheaper..But factored into that is insurance, workers comp, elec heat ,rent..etc..Everything is so darn expensive these days..It's killing people..I think that's why you see so many diyers..To be frank you couldn't pay me enough to work, do that job on someones else s car..I've had my full it's dirty nasty work & you need to be set up properly to do it safely. Not to burst your bubble but unless you've restored a car before it can be a real opener $$$$ wise..A car that needs a restoration isn't a car for a 17 year that needs good reliable transportation..It's a car for a father & son to tackle together as time & funds permit...The bonding & memories you make doing a car that way will last forever & your son will never forget it ! Put it on the back burner..get him a good reliable everyday ride & work on it together as time & funds permit ! Or as 72-Q said

I feel the same now that I know it is for your son, this car should be for both of you to do as a team and have fun with, it not just get it done so he can drive it. remember what you are working on!!! Do not give up on the car just learn how to do what you need to do and then do it together. Get a mig welder ( MILLER!!!!!!!) and learn on old junk metal about the same gauge of what you will be doing and then do it together. I am new here but I have found there are NO stupid questions here, if you do not know just ask and ask again until you get it. Have fun with and do it together!!

 

[1971coupe]

Well again thanks for all the advice. Going into this car I saw a car that ran. Needed a little tlc and needed floor pans. No real major rust anywhere else. Well except in the gas tank. Which we found out after two fuel filters and a fuel pump. So structurally it was and is in decent shape for the money. SO I THOUGHT. As far as the rest the time with the boy and all. I agree it is fun working together. With that said I work 7 days a week 10 or more hours a day. So there isn't much car time in the evening. as far as learning a new skill/art of welding that's about as possible as me grabbing a guitar and being the next stevie ray Vaughn. So in short I made a mistake and now I'm going to live with it like a man should. As far as getting the boy a reliable car that is going to be rough considering I used that money on the mustang. Well this last post didn't really belong on this topic. So again thank you all and your skills and knowledge is very admirable. You have all been a great help. THANK YOU

 

[whitesoc]

Well again thanks for all the advice. Going into this car I saw a car that ran. Needed a little tlc and needed floor pans. No real major rust anywhere else. Well except in the gas tank. Which we found out after two fuel filters and a fuel pump. So structurally it was and is in decent shape for the money. SO I THOUGHT. As far as the rest the time with the boy and all. I agree it is fun working together. With that said I work 7 days a week 10 or more hours a day. So there isn't much car time in the evening. as far as learning a new skill/art of welding that's about as possible as me grabbing a guitar and being the next stevie ray Vaughn. So in short I made a mistake and now I'm going to live with it like a man should. As far as getting the boy a reliable car that is going to be rough considering I used that money on the mustang. Well this last post didn't really belong on this topic. So again thank you all and your skills and knowledge is very admirable. You have all been a great help. THANK YOU

Question for you....I may have missed it while reading through here....but just how bad are your floor pans? You say they need to be replaced...could a patch be put in to get the car road worthy until time, funds and the motivation for a project take over? Remember you want something for the kid to drive....you don't have to make it perfect, just safe!

 

[Don65Stang]

Question for you....I may have missed it while reading through here....but just how bad are your floor pans? You say they need to be replaced...could a patch be put in to get the car road worthy until time, funds and the motivation for a project take over? Remember you want something for the kid to drive....you don't have to make it perfect, just safe!

+1 to what Ken and others have suggested. Buy a mig welder..not the cheap one at Harbor Freight. Go to Lowes and get the Lincoln 100 (I think)...fairly cheap, get (rent like the way you do a propane tank) the gas bottle too.

 

[Widowmaker00]

Question for you....I may have missed it while reading through here....but just how bad are your floor pans? You say they need to be replaced...could a patch be put in to get the car road worthy until time, funds and the motivation for a project take over? Remember you want something for the kid to drive....you don't have to make it perfect, just safe!

+1 to what Ken and others have suggested. Buy a mig welder..not the cheap one at Harbor Freight. Go to Lowes and get the Lincoln 100 (I think)...fairly cheap, get (rent like the way you do a propane tank) the gas bottle too.

Thats what I was thinking too. I don't like to see people give up on a car. If there are just a few holes in the floor and no damage that make the car unsafe, I say just weld some patch panels in there and drive down the road.

 

[1971coupe]

Well not giving up yet. Was just a really depressing kinda day. As far as patches. The rear pans are shot you could put your foot through both of them.. The front driver side small hole. The front passenger fist size. But as I said not giving up just yet. Just going to do some rethinking. Thank you again for all your excellent advice.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Well not giving up yet. Was just a really depressing kinda day. As far as patches. The rear pans are shot you could put your foot through both of them.. The front driver side small hole. The front passenger fist size. But as I said not giving up just yet. Just going to do some rethinking. Thank you again for all your excellent advice.

I have you covered with a repair YOU & your son can do..on the cheap that will last a long long time.. Sounds like you don't need FULL floor pans what you need are the 2 rear sections & the fronts you can make sheet metal patches..Here's how were gonna do this

Order these for the rearhttp://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1988 Your gonna trim away(SAWZALL & A METAL BLADE OR JIGSAW) the rusted metal in the rear just enough to leave a 2" GOOD area all around..Your then gonna drop/ fit the new pan in & trim around or leave as is if you can't trim for A 2" OVERLAP OF THE ORIGINAL FLOOR where you trimmed it back..You then grind around the perimeter of the car floor where the new floor will overlap..do the same on the bottom of the new panel..Here's the key YOU GLUE THE NEW FLOOR SECTION IN USING THIS http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115-p-11230.aspxYOU CAN NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN THIS !!!! Once you lay the new pan in use a few sheet metal screw's to hold it tight till it drys...Do the same for thing for the 2 small front patches you need for the front...Just get some sheet metal & bond the patches in...Once dry go around the joint top & bottom with some seam sealer...Cheap repair that will last many years till you can afford to do it right.

 

[Widowmaker00]

Well not giving up yet. Was just a really depressing kinda day. As far as patches. The rear pans are shot you could put your foot through both of them.. The front driver side small hole. The front passenger fist size. But as I said not giving up just yet. Just going to do some rethinking. Thank you again for all your excellent advice.

I have you covered with a repair YOU & your son can do..on the cheap that will last a long long time.. Sounds like you don't need FULL floor pans what you need are the 2 rear sections & the fronts you can make sheet metal patches..Here's how were gonna do this

Order these for the rearhttp://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1988 Your gonna trim away(SAWZALL & A METAL BLADE OR JIGSAW) the rusted metal in the rear just enough to leave a 2" GOOD area all around..Your then gonna drop/ fit the new pan in & trim around or leave as is if you can't trim for A 2" OVERLAP OF THE ORIGINAL FLOOR where you trimmed it back..You then grind around the perimeter of the car floor where the new floor will overlap..do the same on the bottom of the new panel..Here's the key YOU GLUE THE NEW FLOOR SECTION IN USING THIS http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115-p-11230.aspxYOU CAN NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN THIS !!!! Once you lay the new pan in use a few sheet metal screw's to hold it tight till it drys...Do the same for thing for the 2 small front patches you need for the front...Just get some sheet metal & bond the patches in...Once dry go around the joint top & bottom with some seam sealer...Cheap repair that will last many years till you can afford to do it right.

+1 totally agree this is how you should do it.

 

[whitesoc]

Well not giving up yet. Was just a really depressing kinda day. As far as patches. The rear pans are shot you could put your foot through both of them.. The front driver side small hole. The front passenger fist size. But as I said not giving up just yet. Just going to do some rethinking. Thank you again for all your excellent advice.

I have you covered with a repair YOU & your son can do..on the cheap that will last a long long time.. Sounds like you don't need FULL floor pans what you need are the 2 rear sections & the fronts you can make sheet metal patches..Here's how were gonna do this

Order these for the rearhttp://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1988 Your gonna trim away(SAWZALL & A METAL BLADE OR JIGSAW) the rusted metal in the rear just enough to leave a 2" GOOD area all around..Your then gonna drop/ fit the new pan in & trim around or leave as is if you can't trim for A 2" OVERLAP OF THE ORIGINAL FLOOR where you trimmed it back..You then grind around the perimeter of the car floor where the new floor will overlap..do the same on the bottom of the new panel..Here's the key YOU GLUE THE NEW FLOOR SECTION IN USING THIS http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-automix-panel-bonding-adhesive-08115-p-11230.aspxYOU CAN NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN THIS !!!! Once you lay the new pan in use a few sheet metal screw's to hold it tight till it drys...Do the same for thing for the 2 small front patches you need for the front...Just get some sheet metal & bond the patches in...Once dry go around the joint top & bottom with some seam sealer...Cheap repair that will last many years till you can afford to do it right.

+1 totally agree this is how you should do it.

+2

Nice save Scott!! Thats a great idea plus like you say it does the job until it can be done correctly.