Question for you welders

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Okay while I do understand that welding is an art. I do respect the amazing talent in the skill it takes to weld and make it a clean and strong joint. I lack this skill and equipment. I need to have floor pans welded in to my coupe. I am buying the pans and I just need a skilled welder. I have been turned down by 2 welders already because it's so old of a car and another guy on the phone quoted me 2000 to do the work. So the question is what would you charge a person for the work? I mean does it take anything more than to cut out the old, put in the new, and weld it down? If the old pans get cut out is the body going to twist and go out of whack?(was told this) I'm just amazed that I'm having such a hard time finding a reasonable person for the job. Let me know please. ( I know none of you are close enough to do the work I just was curious)
There's alot more to it than just "cut out the old, put in the new" If you want the right job...You can bet on it, that inside the front rail extension is gonna have rust..the rear torque box may need a repair..Are you gonna just leave it ? Who's removing the interior & putting it back..Do you want a butt weld(non visible repair) or overlap ? The car wont go out of whack & twist if it's supported right & ONLY 1 SIDE IS DONE AT A TIME ! As someone who did this type of work for over 25 years I won't even quote the price by the job..strictly time & materials..For me your looking $75.00 per hour.. for the pans AFTER the interior is out..$2000.00 is more than fair for a true pro..I would check his prior work..You don't need a welder you need a COMPETENT AUTO BODY SHOP

You can see whats involved at my site herehttp://www.saturdaymorninggarage.com/ Scroll down to "stang floors welded in..
I've been reading this thread and for me the best words spoken were "As someone who did this type of work for over 25 years I won't even quote the price by the job..strictly time & materials." I would be very cautious of anyone giving you a solid quote. Be careful you don't end up with a $,2000 job that maybe should have been $2,500.....please keep in mind it's restoration and not collision work....The one thing I've learned over the past year is there is a huge difference..

 
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unless you are going for a concourse resto,buying a mig welder and educating your self is a lot cheaper,and you will be able to do a lot more down the road with money saved by DIY work. give a man a fish,feed him once,teach a man to fish,he feeds him self forever.it would be a great experience for both u and your son

 
Well once again I have to say thank you for the advice from all that wrote on this thread. You're all talented in your own ways. As far as buying a welder, These might sound like excuses but to me they are true facts.

1. I live in in a suburb,there is no junk metal laying around anywhere to practice on

2. The only stores around here that even come close to hardware are Lowes and home depot, Honestly I have never even seen metal for welding at either

3. I can't honestly see buying a welder for one job, I don't own a compressor,or impact tools, hell I'm lucky if I can even find the one phillips head screwdriver I own.

4. I bought this car because it was 80% complete, it ran and,looked to be in very good shape for it's age, and because I knew I could fix a few minor things on it/while teaching my son the same. ie hoses,oil changes,belts,plugs&points. Minor repairs

5. I had no intention of stripping it all down to the frame and restoring it back to factory standards, it didn't need it.

6. To be honest I have never been a DIY kinda guy,everything I have ever tried to fix,restore,repair,or rebuild has always been screwed up.(hell i havent had a floor in the kitchen for 6 years,because I know i'll screw up putting in the tile,and too expensive to pay someone else to do it).

So while most of you out there are jack of all trades and Masters of many, I am not. That is why the information and advice I get from this site is so very appreciated and helpful. Thank you all for being there.:cool:

 
We all started out in the same place. My first Mustang that I worked on was a 67 coupe....floors were shot ...typical Canadian Mustang at that point, I fixed my floors so they were safe enough with a hammer, some sheet metal, a rivet gun and lots of undercoating. I cringe at the thought of that, but it got the car on the road and I drove it until I could afford something better.

Hang in there Scott had some great ideas how to patch the floor earlier in the thread, why don't you take a look and see if there is a local Mustang club around your area. I know that the car club I hang around with the guys are always willing to lend a hand...if not they'll most likely be able to point you in the right direction of someone who can.

 
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