Re-pop trunk lid quality?

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Firebird

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
7
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Location
Seattle, WA
My Car
Brother's 1971 Mustang Coupe
Hi,

How is the quality of the 71-73 Coupe/Vert re-pop trunk lids? Looking around it seems that everyone is selling basically the same parts as I didn't see any real variations in the descriptions (one website I was on listed premium panels as an option, but I didn't see that for the 71-73 Coupe trunk lids).

Reason I am asking is that my dad and I are doing a "fix up" of some of the damage my brother caused to his 71 Coupe, one part of which was backing into a small tree and putting a very large and deep dent in the edge of his trunk lid.

In total we are planning on replacing the trunk lid, the lower valance (someone tapped him in a parking lot damaging that panel) and removing the rear window and fixing some rust issues caused by a leaking window (as far as I can tell).

Thanks,

Douglas

 
I can't speak for the coupe/'vert pieces, but the fastback repop trunk lid I picked up for my Mach 1 is just fine - no complaints at all. I had replaced all the sheet metal (quarter panels, tail light panel, etc.) around a factory trunk lid, and when I dropped the repop trunk lid into its place, I didn't notice any issues whatsoever in quality or fit.

My only complaint with the trunk lid, is from when the body & paint guy re-installed it - it's out of adjustment, and I'm having a hard time cracking the nut to get it back into perfect alignment. When I'd originally installed it, it was perfectly lined up... and they blew it putting it back on.

Otherwise - Aces! ::thumb::

 
Firebird,

I have the new Coupe trunk lid and it is real nice. My body man even likes the quality and the weight of the lid is pretty good also. Now, the lid will need to tacked welded , underneath, once you or your body man has properly aligned the lid.

mustang7173

 
Please excuse my ignorance, what needs to be tack welded? Are the trunk lids not bolts ons are are they missing the inner structure and you need to attach that?

 
I don't know about the coupe/conv but the fastback lid I got from CJ Pony parts fits well. Only thing I noticed is its not quite the same gauge thickness as the original. Make sure you seam seal the underside also.

 
The one I got from national parts depot fits great.im unsure what mustang7173 is talking about.there are no tack welds from the trunk to hinges at all. Just 4 bolts that tighten down.

 
What needs to be "tacked" is the outer skin to the frame inner structure of the the lid itself..The one I got had no welds which allows the skin to move on the frame change alignment if you twist it. Typically "the outer skin" is tacked around the perimeter edge where it's folded or wrapped around the frame or "inner structure"

 
Well... too late now - mine's already painted and on the car. :(

I guess I'll have to make a note for the next paint job. :dodgy:

Better to know, even if it's bad news. Thanks for the clarification, Q. ::thumb::

 
Well... too late now - mine's already painted and on the car. :(

I guess I'll have to make a note for the next paint job. :dodgy:

Better to know, even if it's bad news. Thanks for the clarification, Q. ::thumb::
Be easy closing it make sure you have even pressure side to side maybe that's why you can't get it aligned..It's moved on the frame

 
The outer edge (lip) of the sheet metal to the lid frame should hold tight with the seam sealer that should have been applied before painting... Not sure if yours was sealed or not..

 
The outer edge (lip) of the sheet metal to the lid frame should hold tight with the seam sealer that should have been applied before painting... Not sure if yours was sealed or not..
It will NOT hold tight with just "seam sealer" if you use the car..It would if they used panel adhesive.. Mine had the sealer, just like the repop hood I purchased..The second I went to twist it a tad (common technique used to align panels) The skin moved..Same on the hood..In looking at my original and nos hood.. the skin is tacked to the frame..same on a nos or original trunk lid..Look hard you can see them..

 
The outer edge (lip) of the sheet metal to the lid frame should hold tight with the seam sealer that should have been applied before painting... Not sure if yours was sealed or not..
It will NOT hold tight with just "seam sealer" if you use the car..It would if they used panel adhesive.. Mine had the sealer, just like the repop hood I purchased..The second I went to twist it a tad (common technique used to align panels) The skin moved..Same on the hood..In looking at my original and nos hood.. the skin is tacked to the frame..same on a nos or original trunk lid..Look hard you can see them..
Scott,

Anyone else. Do we need to tack the hood similar to the trunk lip?

I have an aftermarket hood.

 
sdstang

I believe the reason behind the new sheet metal. as Qcode351mach stated, is to provide a much better option in aligning the hood or trunk lid to the rest of the car. Once aligned, then place your tack welds to lock in the hood / trunk sheet metal.

Keep us up to date-

mustang7173

 
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