Replace gas tank

[jscott]

Now that I am moving to the underside of my car for my work I was thinking of replacing the gas tank.  I have not issues with the old one other then it being old, plan on replacing the fuel line as well.  Seems to be a pretty simple thing to do, take old one out and install new one.  Would this be a correct assessment or is it more complicated then that?

 

[Stanglover]

Gas tank. buy Spectra Premium, made in Canada not CHINA!! Rock Auto is the best price, # F32A. Fuel sender Dorman 692-232. Pump, Delphi MF0007, but there are alternative as discussed in Big Red Mach's recent posts. The fuel lines I got from NPD, 3/8" SS. ALL rubber sections need to be from Fuel Injector grade 3/8" hose. CLAMPS use ONLY proper fuel line clamps, NO GEAR CLAMPS, other than as a temporary setup. 

Note on the sender. Spectra offer one, but unless Rock Auto have changed the listing, part # FG87A is incorrect. The outlet tube faces the wrong way.

Note on the SS fuel line. The one I got needed to be tweaked at the tank end to get it to line up. This may have been twisted during shipping or it may be wrong from the factory. It was not hard to do, just be aware it may need a bit of work. If you need more info, I have pictures of my install

 

[jscott]

Thanks, any real need to replace fuel pump if working well?

So replacing tank, lines seems pretty easy.

 

[jscott]

Been reading through some older posts and starting to wonder "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".  Wanted to replace the tank for a cleaner outside look but I can always clean it and paint, new straps, etc.  Is there a good way to inspect the inside of the tank?  I have not fuel issues at this time, tank to carb other then a small flexible piece from the tank to he fuel line that looks old and needs replacing, only a few inches of that tube.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks, any real need to replace fuel pump if working well?

So replacing tank, lines seems pretty easy.

No and yes

 

[Stanglover]

Been reading through some older posts and starting to wonder "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".  Wanted to replace the tank for a cleaner outside look but I can always clean it and paint, new straps, etc.  Is there a good way to inspect the inside of the tank?  I have not fuel issues at this time, tank to carb other then a small flexible piece from the tank to he fuel line that looks old and needs replacing, only a few inches of that tube.

Inspection camera.

I'll almost guarantee the old lines will have some rust in them. Mine did and the rust was clogging the filter. If you have been using Ethanol laced fuel, even more likely imo.

While your in there, I suggest replacing the grommets where lines go through the shock tower. NPD sell them, so likely others as well.

1 more tip. If you drop the tank, first spray the 2 strap bolt nuts with a good penetrating oil if rusty. Replace with galvanized carriage bolts, washers and nuts. 

 

[Don C]

Drain the tank and pull the sending unit. The condition of the sending unit will tell you a lot about what the tank looks like inside. You can use a mirror and light to see the inside of the tank right around the area of the sending unit. Remember, there's a lot of gas fumes that are heavier than air coming out of the opening and flowing around on the floor, so don't do anything that will create a spark, even from static, that will set it off. Leave the doors of your garage open so the fumes can dissipate. Make sure you have a functional fire extinguisher handy.

 

[jpaz]

If you are replacing the fuel lines, then you might as well replace the entire fuel system. Replace everything all at once this winter. Why not, right?  I would do the same, but all my stuff has been replaced, so easier said then done huh? Actually I have to replace my line from the pump to the carb. 

 

[jscott]

Guess I will, it seems easy and inexpensive 

 

[kcmash]

I just used my original.  You can wash them out and get all the water out.  I sprayed mine with rattle can undercoating too for the original look.  Mine had that on there from the factory as a sound deader I believe.  I don’t think a bare steel tank is correct for our cars.

I say don’t spend money where you don’t need too.

Kcmash

 

[Stanglover]

I just used my original.  You can wash them out and get all the water out.  I sprayed mine with rattle can undercoating too for the original look.  Mine had that on there from the factory as a sound deader I believe.  I don’t think a bare steel tank is correct for our cars.

I say don’t spend money where you don’t need too.

Kcmash

Personally, I have not seen one form the factory with undercoat on it except overspray from where other areas got undercoat. I say that with reservation as I can't say for sure. Why would the factory spend money on something that came from the supplier with "Terne Coat" already applied? Terne Coat is a lead/zinc coating if memory serves me. (I'll check on that as it's got me curious now)

EDIT: Terne Coat is a lead/tin alloy. Oh well I was close!

 

[7173Vert]

I believe there should only be sound deadener on the upper front face  ( at the backside of the differential) and on the upper sides of the gas tank from the factory. If a car was undercoated , it was usually done by the selling dealer and there is a possibility of additional coating on the gas tank. Very subjective and everyone will have an opinion... I documented what was on my J Code Vert before disassembling and then returned the same look above, hence my comment here.

 

[kcmash]

Well, my car had some definite anomalies from the tried and true concourse guidance.  I bought mine from the original owners in 1982 after 3 repaints by them.

Originally a 4 wheel power drum, tilt steering, rear defog, clock in the dash car it had a few odd things.

1) Evidence of custom cutting and modifications on the firewall plate for the power brakes.

2) A silver painted intake on the 2v Cleveland engine that was completely stock looking in every other way

3) This coating on the original tank.  Anyone could have applied it, but why?

Kcmash

 

[midlife]

Most likely dealer installed undercoating for rust protection.  Was the car originally from the northern tier of states?

 

[kcmash]

Mine is Kansas City DSO and a lifelong Kansas City resident.   Yep a salt belt car where dealer Rust Proofing was the norm.

kcmash

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

At the factory Ford sprayed any sealer onto bare metal before paint nothing after. That is why we get bad rust. The sealer cracks from time then water gets in the cracks and since on bare metal rust sets in. With the gas tank being a bolt on item it was not on the chassis during any or the sealer, primer or paint. It was just the galvanized finish. I had the dealer undercoat my car before I took delivery it was on the original order to Ford, so bottom of tank was undercoated by dealer. When I pulled the tank off couple years ago the top side looks like new here are some pics. The inside of the tank was all crud and they charge more to clean a tank that an new one costs. Also new sending unit.
If by chance your tank is ok inside you do need to do something about the vapor recovery on the top of the tank. It had a sponge like filler in it to prevent liquid from getting into the vapor lines. You can use the foam like small engine air filters have on a lawn mower. Also get a new pick up screen if your old sending unit is clean.
If you can find some stainless steel carriage bolts for the two that support in the rear will make easier to remove the next time.
You will need to remove the fill pipe so you might want to get new seal around the filler to the trunk floor and also gasket for the tail light panel.
I left my original fuel line on. I did fill it with denatured alcohol and let sit overnight several times. I would put a water bottle with paper towels at the back and blow air in from the front. After about three times it was clean towels. The alcohol removes the varnish build up that gas produced.
My original factory installed Carter fuel pump is still in place.

 

[baz70]

very interesting read, learned tons.... I have the original USS (United States Steel?) branded fuel tank and bought a replacement from CJP just in case. When I get to reinstallation will inspect original and would prefer to keep if clean inside, has some rust spots outside but was surprisingly clean after 45 odd years. will replace the fuel lines and sender though....

PS - just seen that you can buy the USS logo stencil for replacement tank to give the original factory look.... the things people will go to to keep the original look....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1972-USS-United-States-Steel-Gas-Fuel-Tank-Stencil-Logo/190521435645?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3Dbbb578084650422d93c2d7bf8178aee4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D190521434786%26itm%3D190521435645%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DInline+Tube&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851