New gas tank question

[tkelley72]

I am looking at replacing the gas tank in my 72 convertible. I have seen several posts recommending the Spectra Premium F32A from RockAuto. Is this part number compatible with convertibles or just the Mach 1/Sports roof models? Thanks

 

[Stanglover]

Should be the same as far as I know.
It is a good tank for sure, Canadian made and Terne coated so no rust for a loooong time. The Dorman 692232 fuel sender unit seems to be good also. I've had mine for about 5 years now and no problems. I did adjust it slightly to be accurate with 5 US gallons of gas to read 1/4 full. It's that last 1/4 that really counts!!

 

[Idaho Chris]

I am running the same setup as Geoff. Highly recommend the Canadian Spectra tank.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I have a tank all setup, but never used as I went with an in tank pump. Installed but never had gas.

It was bought around 2001 so it might be better than some of today

Here is a link when it was on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2959349520...XKYbPoRSS6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[tkelley72]

One last question regarding installation. Are any modifications required to make it fit and will the original hanger straps still fit? Thanks

 

[Stanglover]

One last question regarding installation. Are any modifications required to make it fit and will the original hanger straps still fit? Thanks

No and Yes.
I suggest using 3/8 x 4" (I think that's the length) Galvanized carriage bolts, nuts and washers. That way they won't rust for a loooong time.
Also while you doing that install, replace the fuel lines. I bought SS lines from NPD (and others sell them) and fuel injector grade rubber hose as it's ethanol resistant (on the inside) Also, very important, proper fuel line spring or pinch clamps, NO gear clamps!!!
Pics; I placed solid 1/16" rubber pads on the tank ribs to add air space and reduce vibrations. The old fuel line had considerable rust inside and one place it actually broke when taking it out. I added a piece of rubber tubing where it touched the frame for protection and note the spring clamp. Yes the original straps will work, but clean 'em up first.
One more thing, the vent/fuel return on top. There is no replacement filter material available. Many suggest securing a piece of SS scrubbing pad to do the job. NO soap in it of course!!

 

[tkelley72]

I'm with you on everything but your last recommendation regarding "replacement filter material"? What specifically are you referring to? Thanks

 

[tkelley72]

FYI if anyone else is in need of one of these I found them at NPD. Seems a bit expensive for what it is though. See attachment.

 

[Sheriff41]

FYI if anyone else is in need of one of these I found them at NPD. Seems a bit expensive for what it is though. See attachment.

I'm with @Stanglover on rebuilding your original with new material inside.

 

[Stanglover]

FYI if anyone else is in need of one of these I found them at NPD. Seems a bit expensive for what it is though. See attachment.

It doesn't mention the filter material, so I wonder if it is in there?
I don't have a pic of the underside of mine, but basically it's just some gas proof material to prevent fuel sloshing back into the vent tube if that makes sense. The cap on yours should be ok, but whatever filter material was in there, has probably broken down and long gone and that's why it needs new.
Hope that explains it better.

 

[BUCKWHEAT]

I just installed a new Canada fuel tank, using the old straps and rods in my '73. I also replaced the evaporation filter. I took someone else's advice and made the filter from a used Toro air cleaner: green foam stuffed in the evap cap on top of the tank, held in by cutting an oval of the metal mesh from the Toro air cleaner. Ho Chi Mihn would be proud.

 

[tkelley72]

I agree with everyone's comments. Makes more sense to clean and make new filter material rather than to spend $50 for a re-pop.

 

[Hemikiller]

I rebuilt my vapor separator with a stainless pot scrubbing pad. Make sure that the metering orifice is clear and repack it with a portion of the scrubble.

The top of the tank should have insulator pads captured between it and the trunk floor. I reused the originals on my 71. Like Stanglover, I also used hardware store carriage bolts and nuts.

 

[Stanglover]

I rebuilt my vapor separator with a stainless pot scrubbing pad. Make sure that the metering orifice is clear and repack it with a portion of the scrubble.

The top of the tank should have insulator pads captured between it and the trunk floor. I reused the originals on my 71. Like Stanglover, I also used hardware store carriage bolts and nuts.

View attachment 82641

View attachment 82642

My pads were bad, but the solid rubber pieces did the trick.
One thing I'll add here, while you're under there, clean and refinish the underside of the trunk floor and make sure it's dry before installing new tank.

 

[KevinP]

No and Yes.
I suggest using 3/8 x 4" (I think that's the length) Galvanized carriage bolts, nuts and washers. That way they won't rust for a loooong time.
Also while you doing that install, replace the fuel lines. I bought SS lines from NPD (and others sell them) and fuel injector grade rubber hose as it's ethanol resistant (on the inside) Also, very important, proper fuel line spring or pinch clamps, NO gear clamps!!!
Pics; I placed solid 1/16" rubber pads on the tank ribs to add air space and reduce vibrations. The old fuel line had considerable rust inside and one place it actually broke when taking it out. I added a piece of rubber tubing where it touched the frame for protection and note the spring clamp. Yes the original straps will work, but clean 'em up first.
One more thing, the vent/fuel return on top. There is no replacement filter material available. Many suggest securing a piece of SS scrubbing pad to do the job. NO soap in it of course!!

For the vent filter I used the filter material out of this, just cut to fit:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...y83apJnc1uToQVPfUpxoC8TQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[KevinP]

No and Yes.
I suggest using 3/8 x 4" (I think that's the length) Galvanized carriage bolts, nuts and washers. That way they won't rust for a loooong time.
Also while you doing that install, replace the fuel lines. I bought SS lines from NPD (and others sell them) and fuel injector grade rubber hose as it's ethanol resistant (on the inside) Also, very important, proper fuel line spring or pinch clamps, NO gear clamps!!!
Pics; I placed solid 1/16" rubber pads on the tank ribs to add air space and reduce vibrations. The old fuel line had considerable rust inside and one place it actually broke when taking it out. I added a piece of rubber tubing where it touched the frame for protection and note the spring clamp. Yes the original straps will work, but clean 'em up first.
One more thing, the vent/fuel return on top. There is no replacement filter material available. Many suggest securing a piece of SS scrubbing pad to do the job. NO soap in it of course!!

For the vent filter I used the filter material out of this, just cut to fit:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...y83apJnc1uToQVPfUpxoC8TQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Stanglover]

For the vent filter I used the filter material out of this, just cut to fit:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...y83apJnc1uToQVPfUpxoC8TQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

No, I wouldn't use that. It is somewhat gas proof, but I think it will break down after time.
Another thought was a Scotch Brite pad, but could also break down after time.

 

[rio1856]

RJS Fuel Cell Safety Foam 30152​

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rjs-30152
Gasoline won't dissolve fuel cell safety foam.

 

[Stanglover]

RJS Fuel Cell Safety Foam 30152​

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rjs-30152
Gasoline won't dissolve fuel cell safety foam.

That's an interesting find. A bit of "extra" material, but cheap enough and you'd never have to worry about it breaking down.