Roasted u-joint

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I mentioned using two loops since the majority of vehicles I've ever worried about were 4x4s - most of them didn't use slip-yokes out of the transfer case (fixed yokes on both ends, both front and rear 'shafts). I didn't think about the 'shaft getting pulled out of the tranny if the rear U-joint lets go... I just envisioned it slinging around and tearing up the floor under the rear seat.

I've dropped the rear 'shaft on my Jeep twice - both times due to strap-style fasteners loosening up and letting the bearing cups fall out (drilled 'em out and went with U-bolts eventually). Fortunately, both times also happened at super low speeds. The front end of the rear 'shaft let go on the street at a stop sign, and flopped around like crazy while I engaged 4WD and let the front wheels pull the Jeep off the road (less than 5 mph, too). The second time, the back end of it came loose, and flopped around after I engaged 4WD I moved to a better spot in the parking lot. Both times, I simply removed the rear driveshaft and went home in Front-Wheel Drive to do the repair in the driveway. Also, just slid under the Jeep with no jacks required to fix it.

The Mustang with its single, slip-yoke driveshaft and zero ground clearance is a new thing for me... and I admit that I felt kind of helpless knowing there wasn't squat I could do about it until I got it towed home and could use my floor jack and jack stands to fix it.

 
If I have another rear u-joint failure I'm certainly going to upgrade to either a Versailles companion flange or the Currie equivalent.

 
If I have another rear u-joint failure I'm certainly going to upgrade to either a Versailles companion flange or the Currie equivalent.
So I finally got my car to my friend's shop and it looks like the 4.0" overall length Moser yoke I ordered is not correct for my rear axle. The yoke that's in there is 5.0" long. So... looking around for a 1310-series 5.0" yoke for my Ford 9" and not finding much. Perhaps this is the time I should be looking at upgrading to a companion flange. Only issues are:

  1. The driveshaft is aluminum, so the flange yoke for it would need to be compatible in terms of welding.
  2. There's not many options for the companion flange itself, either Currie (overkill), Quick Performance (overkill), or a Toyota flange (much more affordable).


Does running a Toyota flange on their Ford 9" make anyone's skin crawl? I'd have to deal with a metric fastener and bolt pattern on the flange yoke too.

 
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