Soliciting Advice/Lessons Learned for Subframe Connector Install

[basstrix]

I'm prepping to install a set of Global West subframe connectors. Looking for input from any of you that have subframe connectors or have installed them. My biggest concern is that the chassis isn't as true as it could be and once I weld, it pretty much locked in. I have good lines on the doors, so it seems pretty straight, but I haven't broken out the trammel and checked it. I'm supporting it under the front tires and on jack stands under the rear axle. I've consistently read that having the weight supported by the tires is a must.

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

[Sheriff41]

Yes, weight on the wheels (or axle, as you have) is the right way to do this. You may want to make sure you're on a level surface and your jack stands maintain the car with that level surface, i.e., car is parallel in the horizontal plane to what it would be if on the ground.
Once it's all positioned check your shut lines on all panels, open and close the doors to make sure there is no stress on the unibody different than when it's on the ground. At this point you should be good to position the connectors and weld them in.

 

[Omie01]

I installed mine on a level floor, I put jack stands under the rear axle, but I did put the front up supported at the the fore most part of the subframe, because I couldn't get under the car without jacking it up, Tried the doors to make sure all was good. Car drives great with no issues. And is very rigid. Good luck!!

 

[basstrix]

Yesterday I practiced some vertical uphill with 3/16 on top of 10ga. Partway into the job, I found that the rear frame rails are only 16ga! Now I'm concerned about welding such thick cuff to the relatively thin frame rail. That's a big no-no for anything that flexes...to abruptly change the stiffness. If it doesn't flex, it shouldn't be an issue.

Have any of you using the Global West connectors experienced cracking near the welds? I'm more concerned about the rear, but interested in either front or rear cracking.

 

[Sheriff41]

No cracking on my convertible w/GW SFCs. Stitch welded when I put them in a couple decades ago.

 

[Omie01]

No issues after 5 years, also, if your heat is sufficient, you can do a downhill weld and that will prevent over penetration.

 

[basstrix]

Got my connectors installed and went for a test drive. I've read comments from people saying they feel a difference. What should I be looking for, in terms of differences? About all I can say is that it does the 1-legged burnout easier....further highlighting the need for a limited slip differential.

 

[c9zx]

I noticed better ride quality and much less "wind-up" in the chassis on hard acceleration. That is for my Cougar,no connectors on my Mach1. The connectors have been on the Cougar since the late 1980s, no cracking. Chuck

 

[Sheriff41]

On my convertible I noticed a lot less cowl shake. The effectiveness is probably more noticeable on a convertible than a solid roof car.

 

[cwalker509]

Thanks for asking this question. I have a pair of subframe connectors I need to get installed in my vert

 

[Omie01]

I notice an overall more noticeable stability and stiffness as well!

 

[midlife]

I notice an overall more noticeable stability and stiffness as well!

Are we still talking about subframe connectors????

 

[MaddMike]

I had subframe connectors installed a couple weeks ago. Seam and plug welded on both ends with bracket mounts bolted to the floor weld seam on the rear of the seat box. I have a Mach 1 and it feels tight and rigid - it just has a more solid feel when driving. I am really glad I did it. I purchased mine from NPD and they fit no problem and appeared to be of good quality. I can imagine you'll feel a difference in a convertible.