Spark Plug Gap

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This is great info!

Next question for someone still learning. I replaced the plugs in my Sport Trac with no issue and figure it time to do it in my pony.

How tight should the plugs be? Do I need to use a torque wrench? If so how tight. I have had so many tell me that I do and don't.
 
This is great info!

Next question for someone still learning. I replaced the plugs in my Sport Trac with no issue and figure it time to do it in my pony.

How tight should the plugs be? Do I need to use a torque wrench? If so how tight. I have had so many tell me that I do and don't.
Not a bad question, but no you do not need a torque wrench. Do NOT over tighten them either. The 14 mm plugs we use do not have crush washers, so tight is all you need. You'll get the feel of them as you tighten them. Bottom them out then just a little extra push on the wrench is all I do. Also use a proper plug socket!!!
What you do need to do first before you pull the old plugs is make sure there is no dirt or crap in and around the plugs. You do NOT want dirt getting into a cylinder or under a plug seal. Blow any dirt out first.
Make sure you replace the plug wire in the correct order of course.
Good luck.
EDIT: I just noticed you have a (cough) Windsor motor in your car. However, they take the same plugs as the Cleveland's You do not need fancy plugs for your weekend cruiser.
 
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For that stock application I suggest Autolite Copper #24 at stock gap of .035. I agree with Hemi, the rare metal plugs are not well suited to this application. Chuck
I had Platinum plugs that I installed once in a 203 in an 84 Linciln VII LSC. Furl inected with headers from the factory. The engine had been running perfectly with the Autolite copper plugs just fine, but I just had to get the Platinum plugs. I returned from my test drive immediately and swapped back to Autolite Copper plugs due to severe misfire using the Platinum. I never tried to improve performance with modern plugs on the older engine again.
 
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