Speedmaster heads?

[scgamecock]

I have to pull the heads on my 72 Q code. As far as I know they have never been worked before. When factoring in the cost of a head rebuild including screw in studs, hardened seals, springs, retainers possibly larger and\or lighter valves and me doing some minor porting and enlargement of exhaust ports. Are these worth considering???

I remember reading a while back when building a 454 Chevy that these had some QC issues. The manufacturer was called Proform back then????

I went with the Edelbrock RPM's instead but that was before marriage, kids and a mortgage! If there is a significant value in not only cost but performance, weight savings, etc. should I consider? Why or why not?

Thanks

Wade

Speed Master Bare Heads

 

[turtle5353]

I have to pull the heads on my 72 Q code. As far as I know they have never been worked before. When factoring in the cost of a head rebuild including screw in studs, hardened seals, springs, retainers possibly larger and\or lighter valves and me doing some minor porting and enlargement of exhaust ports. Are these worth considering???

I remember reading a while back when building a 454 Chevy that these had some QC issues. The manufacturer was called Proform back then????

I went with the Edelbrock RPM's instead but that was before marriage, kids and a mortgage! If there is a significant value in not only cost but performance, weight savings, etc. should I consider? Why or why not?

Thanks

Wade

Speed Master Bare Heads

Don't waste your money on that CHINESE junk. That's $700 for 1 head??

Porcomp/speedmaster stuff is all junk. Its all knock off stuff that will more than likely cost you more in the long run. edelbrock is about same price...

https://jet.com/product/detail/ada4f1bbb18841b9ba411186700508d8?jcmp=pla:ggl:b_nj_dur_gen_vehicles_parts_a1_b2:vehicle_parts_accessories_motor_vehicle_parts_motor_vehicle_engine_parts_a1_other:naLA_627521202_31309438522_pla-156915276540:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&gclid=COGB-7Hj8M4CFYupNwodLt8IAg&gclsrc=ds

If it was me personally I would have the 4v heads redone.

 

[mjlan]

Disclaimer: I have not used those heads.

I also would not, as I have read too many stories about low quality and inferior design. And I'm cheap.

What are you looking for out of your car? Reconditioned iron heads aren't that bad. Call around for a quote on re-doing yours would be my opinion. Or buck up for some TFS or other parts if you are seriously stepping up the power level.

 

[will e]

I think they ripped off these guys:

http://www.chiheads.com.au/shop/heads/3v-225-ford-cleveland/

Wow, a google search shows a LOT of aluminum heads now available for our Clevelands. A few years ago it was CHI and AFD. Edelbrock joined in the game too.

There is one company that also makes aluminum heads but they are cast to look like the stock heads. This may or may not be important to you.

Also, do your research. In some cases the ports are altered enough that a custom intake manifold is also required. I believe this is true in some cases with the CHI heads that I linked to above.

 

[c9zx]

While I've heard some success stories with custom ported and built proComp/Speedmaster heads, I've heard many bad things about them. However, all the information I have is at least 3 years old. They may have improved. Why are you pulling the heads? Are you doing a complete rebuild or just a valve job and conversion to adjustable valve train?

Chuck

 

[TommyK]

No personal experience but everything I have read says the castings are of good quality but that is about it.

The knock on them seems to be the same for all Chinese heads. The valves and hardware are junk, the seats are recessed and like to fall out and they need a lot of port work to get them even close with other first world offerings.

I know the 460 Procomp heads are not well regarded.

 

[scgamecock]

While I've heard some success stories with custom ported and built proComp/Speedmaster heads, I've heard many bad things about them. However, all the information I have is at least 3 years old. They may have improved. Why are you pulling the heads? Are you doing a complete rebuild or just a valve job and conversion to adjustable valve train?

Chuck

The motor was rebuilt 3 or 4 years ago according to the guy I bought it from. The left bank has water getting in the back 2 cylinders. We are in the process of moving so I have not had a chance to take cylinders pressure readings.

I did put some sealer in it and it stopped the white smoke at idle and did not foul the plugs but it has sat untouched for about 4 months now.

The only reason I was looking at these heads was if there was a significant cost comparison between having my heads reworked vs. Buying these.

Since there is no knocking the motor does run pretty smooth and under the valve covers is clean and sludge free I wasn't planning on pulling the whole motor.

W

 

[c9zx]

For you application, I'd refurbish the original heads. It is critical that you find a very competent machinist familiar with the 351C. Spend the money for a multi-angle valve job, thick wall hardened push rods, and if possible titanium retainers. Controlling those big intake valves is made more difficult by using heavy valve train components. A lot depends on how high you want to rev the engine. You really need to know the cam specs to select appropriate valve springs. How much you spend depends on intended use and the name brands used. Lesser known brands such as Rev, Elgin, or Pioneer may meet your needs at a lower price than Ferrea, Comp Cams, or ARP. Let us know what you decide to do.

Chuck

 

[scgamecock]

Are new lighter valves a good idea for the stock heads? If so would someone post a link to what is recommended?

 

[c9zx]

Are new lighter valves a good idea for the stock heads? If so would someone post a link to what is recommended?

As the RPM range is increased the weight of all valve train components becomes more important. This is especially true for any part on the outboard side of the pivot point of the rocker arm. This includes the rocker arm, the springs, the valves, the retainers, and the locks. Rigidity of the push rod also becomes more important. The acceleration rates of the cam profile also play a major role in valve trian stability and longevity. Again, the cam profile needs to be figured out before valve spring selection can be done. I have used Ferrea 5000 series valves for mild builds and Ferrea 6000 series valves for more aggressive builds for over 20 years without a failure. Here is a link, http://www.ferrea.com/Ford-Engine-Valves/p34268?right_select_year=1972&right_select_make=22&right_select_model=3008&right_select_motor=6977. As I said, a less expensive valve may also meet your needs. What are your goals for the car, how do you want ti use it? Chuck