Spring compressor

[70cobrascj]

I measured my spring and it’s 15 inches and the wire is around .660 Not sure what the OEM wire size is yet.
I ordered non A/C springs for sure and check the invoice.
Called Eaton back yesterday and was told the two tech reps are out sick.
I think I’m just going to take a swing at it and cut one coil off. One full coil is two inches.

 

[Hemikiller]

I'd be conservative and start with half a coil. The suspension has a 2:1 ratio - 2" at the wheel is 1" at the spring.

You did loosen the lower control arm adjuster bolt, correct?

Spring application and spec charts for 72 below.

 

[RIBS]

I think my 1 coil was about 4”…

 

[Stanglover]

I think my 1 coil was about 4”…

?

 

[70cobrascj]

I'd be conservative and start with half a coil. The suspension has a 2:1 ratio - 2" at the wheel is 1" at the spring.

You did loosen the lower control arm adjuster bolt, correct?

Spring application and spec charts for 72 below.

View attachment 82808



View attachment 82809

 

[Paul M]

What’s everyone’s go to front coil spring compressor?
Need to remove my front springs and either replace them or cut a coil or two out.
Front sits way to high.
I put new Eaton front springs in and they are way too tall.
I bought 351 springs and I believe they lost the same spring with or without A/C.
I almost bought non A/C springs.
The spring rate seems good but are just too tall. I know I shave some weight with the aluminum heads and no A/C components installed.
Thanks

You did good managing to get those tall springs in. Next time choke up on your tool so it doesn't have to work so hard. I used large nuts for spacers. I did this so I didn't have to cut the top of the tool off, which would limit it from compressing taller springs in the future. Your stock springs are .650. I went with the aftermarket which were .720 thicker and shorter. If I had those springs on my car and it sat up that high, I would cut one coil off. The amount you cut off the total height in the front doubles. If your springs sat 15" high and you remove 1" you'll come pretty close to double the effect (2") in total ht installed. It's the opposite in the rear.

 

[70cobrascj]

I cut a half coil off and it seems just about right now. I did notice the Moog upper control arms were rubbing on the mounting surface of the shock towers. I ground down the area of the arm that was rubbing. Don’t think the rubbing had anything to do with the stance as I could push the front up and down no problem. Would think Moog parts would not have this problems.
I’ll get a pic of its stance when I can.

 

[70cobrascj]

You did good managing to get those tall springs in. Next time choke up on your tool so it doesn't have to work so hard. I used large nuts for spacers. I did this so I didn't have to cut the top of the tool off, which would limit it from compressing taller springs in the future. Your stock springs are .650. I went with the aftermarket which were .720 thicker and shorter. If I had those springs on my car and it sat up that high, I would cut one coil off. The amount you cut off the total height in the front doubles. If your springs sat 15" high and you remove 1" you'll come pretty close to double the effect (2") in total ht installed. It's the opposite in the rear.

I had to do the same thing with spacers because the thread rod would hit the spring perch if you don’t. I think I prefer the four claw compressor over the the one with the plate. Had a hell of time lining up the bottle end of the spring with the spring perch tab.

 

[Paul M]

You shouldn't have to cut Moog parts like that. Are you sure your upper control arms are centered? It will never align correctly. Also, on the 1/2 spring mod I recommend 1 full coil (not 1/2 ) since the springs usually rest in lil pockets both top and bottom. It's been a year if I remember correctly. When installing the upper control arms, they need to be tightened up evenly. You do not do one side at a time on upper control arms, you do both at the same time bringing them both in evenly.

 

[Stanglover]

Personally I wouldn't cut any springs unless it was for other reasons, not on a stock rebuild. I would send them back and get the correct springs for the application.
As said before, the garbage Scott Drake was selling, supposedly for a 71-73, were totally wrong and had a date code of C5xxxxx if I remember correctly, They certainly were NOT D1xxxx. 65 stuff does not fit 71-73's in general.
Just my 2 cents worth, do as you wish.

 

[Paul M]

Personally I wouldn't cut any springs unless it was for other reasons, not on a stock rebuild. I would send them back and get the correct springs for the application.
As said before, the garbage Scott Drake was selling, supposedly for a 71-73, were totally wrong and had a date code of C5xxxxx if I remember correctly, They certainly were NOT D1xxxx. 65 stuff does not fit 71-73's in general.
Just my 2 cents worth, do as you wish.

Yep, those do not look like any std Mustang front spring heights w/or without power steering. I personally wouldn't put a .650 spring in when there's @ 4 mfg's selling .720 thicker shorter springs. I personally went with a drop spring then brought it back up to close to stock height w/ 3/8" spacers, only I limited some rollover on the corners with the thicker springs He needs to address the positioning of his upper control arms, it looks like he brought one side in then tightened the other. I know this **** is a pain in the @ss, however once it's done right it won't have to ever be done again.

 

[Stanglover]

Yep, those do not look like any std Mustang front spring heights w/or without power steering. I personally wouldn't put a .650 spring in when there's @ 4 mfg's selling .720 thicker shorter springs. I personally went with a drop spring then brought it back up to close to stock height, only I limited some rollover on the corners with the thicker springs He needs to address the positioning of his upper control arms, it looks like he brought one side in then tightened the other. I know this **** is a pain in the @ss, however once it's done right it won't have to ever be done again.

Hey Paul I'm not sure if you're referring to my springs, which are stock correct springs, gauge and height, for a 71 Mach 1 with manual trans, no AC. The color daubs show that.
Buying proper lowering springs would be the way to go if you wanted the front end down a bit. That's what I would do anyway.
There is one thing I am pretty sure of, a spring is not a spring unless it's made from proper spring steel, as Eaton are. There is no knowing what steel some of these offshore companies use and they don't publish it either. The rear leaf springs I bought, Grab-A-Track, started bending backwards after a few years. They were more than likely a steel known as 4140 which is a pre-treated tool steel.
As for the UCL's , no idea, but you could be right, makes sense.

 

[Paul M]

I was referring to the photos he was sharing, those springs are too long for even a station wagon application. Ha that's why I rebuilt my upper control arms instead of buying rebuilt ones. The quality of the old steel. On a spring who knows what China is sending us.

 

[70cobrascj]

You shouldn't have to cut Moog parts like that. Are you sure your upper control arms are centered? It will never align correctly. Also, on the 1/2 spring mod I recommend 1 full coil (not 1/2 ) since the springs usually rest in lil pockets both top and bottom. It's been a year if I remember correctly. When installing the upper control arms, they need to be tightened up evenly. You do not do one side at a time on upper control arms, you do both at the same time bringing them both in evenly.

The arms come preassembled and look correct. The top isn’t clocked just bottom.
I talked to Eaton and they say you don’t go by how many coils on these Mustang springs because the top is flat and isn’t clocked. You go by the measured length you want and cut there.
I have no problem cutting these springs. They were the right length and wire size but they just sat too high.
The car sits correct now and rides good.
And if for some reason I don’t like them later on I’ll get another set or powered coat my originals. They aren’t super expensive.
I’ll work on the rear leaf springs next. I’d like to see the rear sit an inch higher.

 

[Stanglover]

I was referring to the photos he was sharing, those springs are too long for even a station wagon application. Ha that's why I rebuilt my upper control arms instead of buying rebuilt ones. The quality of the old steel. On a spring who knows what China is sending us.

Not just China, India is a supplier of junk springs also. Buyer beware!!

 

[Stanglover]

The arms come preassembled and look correct. The top isn’t clocked just bottom.
I talked to Eaton and they say you don’t go by how many coils on these Mustang springs because the top is flat and isn’t clocked. You go by the measured length you want and cut there.
I have no problem cutting these springs. They were the right length and wire size but they just sat too high.
The car sits correct now and rides good.
And if for some reason I don’t like them later on I’ll get another set or powered coat my originals. They aren’t super expensive.
I’ll work on the rear leaf springs next. I’d like to see the rear sit an inch higher.

Eaton can also build custom rear springs, but more expensive. I agree, the standard Ford height is too low. I put on a set of Eaton 1" longer shackles, but it only raises the rear a net of about 1/2". Longer shackles will show too much and look like they were out of the 70's!

 

[Paul M]

The arms come preassembled and look correct. The top isn’t clocked just bottom.
I talked to Eaton and they say you don’t go by how many coils on these Mustang springs because the top is flat and isn’t clocked. You go by the measured length you want and cut there.
I have no problem cutting these springs. They were the right length and wire size but they just sat too high.
The car sits correct now and rides good.
And if for some reason I don’t like them later on I’ll get another set or powered coat my originals. They aren’t super expensive.
I’ll work on the rear leaf springs next. I’d like to see the rear sit an inch higher.

I always check their preassembly anyway. Ye it's kinda obvious that only one side is clocked in the pic I sent. That's what I get for having did a 50 Dodge recently. They were clocked. Anyway, I have yet to see stock rear leafs last 50 yrs without flattening out some. I went with the stock spring eye and 5 leafs in the rear. I have dished wheels and didn't modify my fender wells, so I ended up also using homemade shackles that are 1" over stock. I also was frustrated with my front spring saddles making noise and opted for the ones with grease inserts.

 

[Paul M]

Not just China, India is a supplier of junk springs also. Buyer beware!!

Yep we seem to like shutting down our own mfg here in the US to please the climate zealots. Which in turn leads to a larger carbon footprint by shipping it across the sea. They love that cheap labor, laxed quality control and lack of qualified workers. This Mustang build has really opened my eyes to how bad it really is right now. Turn signal assy new lasted 4 months. New alternator started running real hot and had voltage spikes, I exchanged it for free, New solenoid contacts stuck together & I had to hurry and disconnect the battery. Luckily the cable wasn't tightened down. New LED light bulbs 2 bad out of 10, sockets were all defective junk. There's more just don't remember all of them. I just redid the F150 front end and the hubs didn't have holes machined in them for abs and etc, I had to drive the bicycle to get my other parts. It was either that or drive a race car. I've since tagged and insured 3 cars in case of more F150 problems. Engine light came back on this time it's the pcv valve (again!!!!!!) I just replaced it from the Ford dealership a year and 1/2 ago. $90.00. The modern f150 pcv is not a little one-way check valve that lasts decades then you clean it w/wd40 and it last for more decades, nah it's a tube with electronic controls a built-in manufactured defect that I'd like to shove up a Ford engineers @ss. I went through 3 new window regs and 1 is going bad again, 2 out of 4 O2 sensors, the cats went bad so I replaced them with straight pipes and a bung with anti plug foulers to fool the computer, + one cam phaser which was a pain, so I did both w/ tensioners. Ok gotta go back to wiring a hotrod

 

[Stanglover]

Yep we seem to like shutting down our own mfg here in the US to please the climate zealots. Which in turn leads to a larger carbon footprint by shipping it across the sea. They love that cheap labor, laxed quality control and lack of qualified workers. This Mustang build has really opened my eyes to how bad it really is right now. Turn signal assy new lasted 4 months. New alternator started running real hot and had voltage spikes, I exchanged it for free, New solenoid contacts stuck together & I had to hurry and disconnect the battery. Luckily the cable wasn't tightened down. New LED light bulbs 2 bad out of 10, sockets were all defective junk. There's more just don't remember all of them. I just redid the F150 front end and the hubs didn't have holes machined in them for abs and etc, I had to drive the bicycle to get my other parts. It was either that or drive a race car. I've since tagged and insured 3 cars in case of more F150 problems. Engine light came back on this time it's the pcv valve (again!!!!!!) I just replaced it from the Ford dealership a year and 1/2 ago. $90.00. The modern f150 pcv is not a little one-way check valve that lasts decades then you clean it w/wd40 and it last for more decades, nah it's a tube with electronic controls a built-in manufactured defect that I'd like to shove up a Ford engineers @ss. I went through 3 new window regs and 1 is going bad again, 2 out of 4 O2 sensors, the cats went bad so I replaced them with straight pipes and a bung with anti plug foulers to fool the computer, + one cam phaser which was a pain, so I did both w/ tensioners. Ok gotta go back to wiring a hotrod

Oh boy, we got you going didn't we!!
But you're right, NOTHING is made like it used to be or should be. No-one cares anymore except for the almighty dollar.

 

[70cobrascj]

I'd be conservative and start with half a coil. The suspension has a 2:1 ratio - 2" at the wheel is 1" at the spring.

You did loosen the lower control arm adjuster bolt, correct?

Spring application and spec charts for 72 below.

View attachment 82808



View attachment 82809


View attachment 82810

I was referring to the photos he was sharing, those springs are too long for even a station wagon application. Ha that's why I rebuilt my upper control arms instead of buying rebuilt ones. The quality of the old steel. On a spring who knows what China is sending us.

They were correct I believe I have just removed to much weight.