Steering and handling upgrade

[kblackav8or]

I posted this in my intro a while back but thought it might be of use in this part of the forum in case some may not have seen it.

If there is one thing I would urge all 71-73 owners to do - install some sort of subframe connectors/chassis stiffeners. Especially if you are running stiffer then stock springs. I found that whatever stiff springs the previous owner had installed were just flexing the chassis - in effect just making the chassis the spring. The stock springs are way too soft in my book for even casual driving - especially being about 40 years old. If you stiffen the chassis and run some descent shocks and springs all around it makes these cars a lot more enjoyable to drive. The next thing I would do is replace the stock steering box with one from Lee Power Steering - they rebuild the stock Saginaw hybrid Ford box to whatever specs you would like. They will still work with your stock pump. What I did was get one built that has a 12:1 ratio and a bit less boost and more feel. Makes the car a lot more nimble and tight. It is also about 1/3 the cost of a rack and pinion conversion. I think I paid around $450 for box and hoses. Our boxes can be rebuilt basically to mimic the older Corvette boxes used in racing and stock car racing. I ended up running a more modern 5.0 Mustang style pump which are very common and a lot quieter then the old one was. Also a tad lighter.

 

[will e]

Too funny. I was thinking on the way home yesterday that I should post asking who had subframe connectors and recommend them. This is very very true for us convertible folks. The hard tops helps with the strength of the uni-body.

 

[TheJ]

I was thinking about doing and have a dumb question but whats the stock steering ratio?

 

[Tnfastbk]

I was thinking about doing and have a dumb question but whats the stock steering ratio?

http://www.themustangshop.com/steerbox.cfm

 

[TheJ]

Thanks for the link.

 

[kblackav8or]

If you choose a modern faster ratio and more feedback it makes the car a better handler. The 12:1 I chose might be faster then some folks may desire. The stock ratio is too slow and sloppy in my book though. I think stock is 18:1 or so with the power steering box. 14-16:1 is pretty common these days. Lee Power Steering can rebuild a 71-73 box as fast as 8:1 which is like a sprint car.

 

[will e]

If you choose a modern faster ratio and more feedback it makes the car a better handler. The 12:1 I chose might be faster then some folks may desire. The stock ratio is too slow and sloppy in my book though. I think stock is 18:1 or so with the power steering box. 14-16:1 is pretty common these days. Lee Power Steering can rebuild a 71-73 box as fast as 8:1 which is like a sprint car.

After 27 years and a quarter million miles I bet I would get into trouble if i changed my steering ratio.

Another upgrade that I really liked is the upgraded front strut rods. There are several different companies that make them, I went global west and love them.

 

[oh dam]

hmmm what would you recommend for an occassional road racing/autox. but mostly back-up car/ weekend warrior? i have some 600lb maier racing coils ready to be installed and some 200lb leafs that are in going to be bought real soon. no subs or thicker sway etc. decent shocks for a budget. here is a post i did before i saw this.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-crazy-handling-on-freeway

also thinking of putting some wider wheels for racings. i have currently 225/R18 in the front and 275/R20 in the rear. and thinking of either keeping the 225 or going with a 235 or 245 for the front. and either a 285 or 295 for the rear.

 

[kblackav8or]

Don't do the front springs until you stiffen the chassis. All it will do is turn the car chassis into the spring. You need subframe connectors at a minimum. The rebuilt steering box from Lee Power steering even without a faster ratio is so much better then the vague zero feel stock Ford stuff of the era. I really like the stuff from: http://streetortrack.com/

 

[oh dam]

what sub frames would you recommend? i was looking atr either maier racing or TCP.

 

[kblackav8or]

I think TCP stuff is way overpriced. Note that most anything that fits a 69/70 will also fit our 71-73's underneath. You can also have some made by most any halfway competent welder. The goal is to fabricate a connector that will connect and stiffen the chassis between front and rear chassis boxes. I think I ended up with the Global West ones (after I held my nose) In certain circles they have had in the past a negative reputation for certain things. Whatever you use needs to be properly welded on for them to work. You will immediately notice a difference if you already have stiffer then stock springs. I discovered my stiff springs wheren't really compressing and were instead just pretzeling the chassis.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-70-Mustang-Tommyzees-Tubular-Subframe-Connectors-/250640605552

There are all sorts of them out there. Not just these above. Remember the part about the 70' versions fitting ours as well.

 

[oh dam]

I think TCP stuff is way overpriced. Note that most anything that fits a 69/70 will also fit our 71-73's underneath. You can also have some made by most any halfway competent welder. The goal is to fabricate a connector that will connect and stiffen the chassis between front and rear chassis boxes. I think I ended up with the Global West ones (after I held my nose) In certain circles they have had in the past a negative reputation for certain things. Whatever you use needs to be properly welded on for them to work. You will immediately notice a difference if you already have stiffer then stock springs. I discovered my stiff springs wheren't really compressing and were instead just pretzeling the chassis.

well i havent changed my springs just yet. I think sub frames will go in before the spring change.


will the 69-70 rear sway bar fit as well?

 

[kblackav8or]

Addco makes bars for our cars. They aren't that expensive. Remember, Rear affects front, front affects rear with many suspension changes. If you want to stay mostly stock out back, a Fays2 Watts link kit, fresh bushings (I am leery of poly for spring bushings) maybe higher rate springs, biggest sway bar they make will make a big difference out back. The Watts typically lowers lap times a good second or more for most guys doing club level racing. My rear suspension has a Fays2 but that is about the only off the shelf part I have back there. I do highly recommend them because they are pretty much a drill and bolt on part. If you want your car to handle best, you don't do a 4 link. 4 link is fine for drag racing but at some point in their travel they will bind up when the car rolls.

http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/ford/

 

[oh dam]

Addco makes bars for our cars. They aren't that expensive. Remember, Rear affects front, front affects rear with many suspension changes. If you want to stay mostly stock out back, a Fays2 Watts link kit, fresh bushings (I am leery of poly for spring bushings) maybe higher rate springs, biggest sway bar they make will make a big difference out back. The Watts typically lowers lap times a good second or more for most guys doing club level racing. My rear suspension has a Fays2 but that is about the only off the shelf part I have back there. I do highly recommend them because they are pretty much a drill and bolt on part. If you want your car to handle best, you don't do a 4 link. 4 link is fine for drag racing but at some point in their travel they will bind up when the car rolls.

http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/ford/

for now i am just going with the rear sway bar i think its 3/4".. eventually i am going with a panhard bar and cantilever system.

 

[kblackav8or]

I would still go with the Watts link. Panards cause your suspension to travel upward in an arc. There is all sorts of neat stuff out there if you want to spend the money. I did my research, read up on things and worked with friends and fabricated mine from parts from places like Stock Car Products (called something else now) and basically built my own. I had an engineer friend come over and take some measurements after it was done. I have a really nice low roll center, a bit of very predictable rear steer as the car rolls through a turn, it rides well but firm and really corners nice so far. I also have less then 2k into all the rear suspension stuff to include custom valved Bilstein coil overs built for me by their motorsports department in San Diego. Rest is all done at home with a little bit of help. If you own a welder, you can read up, get on the forums, work with some local folks and get a nice handling car that you did yourself, not out of a box. For the store bought stuff, I really like these guys stuff the best. Very helpful and will get you where you want to go.

https://www.streetortrack.com/

 

[oh dam]

I would still go with the Watts link. Panards cause your suspension to travel upward in an arc. There is all sorts of neat stuff out there if you want to spend the money. I did my research, read up on things and worked with friends and fabricated mine from parts from places like Stock Car Products (called something else now) and basically built my own. I had an engineer friend come over and take some measurements after it was done. I have a really nice low roll center, a bit of very predictable rear steer as the car rolls through a turn, it rides well but firm and really corners nice so far. I also have less then 2k into all the rear suspension stuff to include custom valved Bilstein coil overs built for me by their motorsports department in San Diego. Rest is all done at home with a little bit of help. If you own a welder, you can read up, get on the forums, work with some local folks and get a nice handling car that you did yourself, not out of a box. For the store bought stuff, I really like these guys stuff the best. Very helpful and will get you where you want to go.

https://www.streetortrack.com/

dam thats what i want something that corners well. since i want to track this car. Ill just have to start designing my own suspension for my needs haha. is there any tips as to what to stay away from? or any recommendations (besides what you said) and also is there any websites that idk teaches you about suspension geometry and how to measure it?

 

[Qcode351mach]

Don't do the front springs until you stiffen the chassis. All it will do is turn the car chassis into the spring. You need subframe connectors at a minimum. The rebuilt steering box from Lee Power steering even without a faster ratio is so much better then the vague zero feel stock Ford stuff of the era. I really like the stuff from: http://streetortrack.com/

Ditto on the Street or Track stuff..I have 2 72's both with their frt suspension setups..see my install here (part2 on my you tube channel)

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-removing-your-old-suspension-vid

 

[kblackav8or]

Well there is the Corner Carvers forum. It isn't like other forums. You want to search and read a lot before you post anything on there and then lurk for a while. The folks in there are very smart. All the questions have already been answered so search and find an old thread and read through it before you start something new that was already discussed. It isn't for everyone. Probably some others. Most people do tend to roll their own to one extent or another in there. Have a thick skin and wear your fire suit. Look at what others have done and model your plan on theirs. Mine I gave up back seats and put my 3rd link in the middle through the floor offset slightly to the right side of the car for torque purposes. Start going through the various sites that sell "raw" chassis components. You will be shocked at how much less you pay when you cut and thread the tubes yourself. Here are a few sites to get you started. I have forgotten many others. You will need some fab tools. A mig welder or access to one is pretty much a given. Some other basics, jigsaw, grinder, files, hammers etc. What you save on parts you spend on tools the first time around though the cool thing is when it is done, you get to keep using the tools on the next one or when you rework. My car has an in house Autopower Cage. They make nice stuff. Mine has some custom extra bracing and tweaks that really make the car solid.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Shop/Oval-Track/21.html?CID=1622&googleppc=yes&gclid=CJ3inqSjursCFe5j7Aod628AKA

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/

http://www.rodendsupply.com/

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/

http://www.racingjunk.com/

 

[Graham Man]

Going out on a limb, why would you not want the box type that weld to the floor and connect the "front stub" with the "rear stub" box welded the entire length? vs the tube type (welded on each end)? Seems the tube type would have a lot more room to flex? I do understand most of the interior needs to be removed to put in either system.