Hello my name GERMY from Texas, do you love my 1972 Mustang Fastback 351W ?

[rcadd1ct]

If your jankly setup, I see your 6inch bolt going to the upper right head hole, like mine, so I think I'm good. I tightened everything down today, and slapped on a lower hose and it cleared fine.

Question though. Your top pic must be from a Cleveland, correct ? I see it in the lower right head hole

Put a straight edge on the water pump pulley to see how many washers for a spacer.

If you don’t the belt will twist or walk off.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Put a straight edge on the water pump pulley to see how many washers for a spacer.

If you don’t the belt will twist or walk off.

Right now, I have a 3/8 inch bolt and washer between the Head and the PS bracket, and it's seems to be working fine. My PS pulley looks like a ruffles potato chip though, but it's hanging on for now. I just want to get this car rolling so I can get it passed state inspection. Engine running great, but could not get the FMX to shift into gear yesterday (first attempt since buying the car)

 

[rcadd1ct]

Right now, I have a 3/8 inch bolt and washer between the Head and the PS bracket, and it's seems to be working fine. My PS pulley looks like a ruffles potato chip though, but it's hanging on for now. I just want to get this car rolling so I can get it passed state inspection. Engine running great, but could not get the FMX to shift into gear yesterday (first attempt since buying the car)

Check the linkage from the shifter. If that is ok be careful. If the torque converter didn’t seat in the pump correctly you can wipe out the trans.

Did you install the trans or was it already assembled?

 

[GERMYS_72]

Check the linkage from the shifter. If that is ok be careful. If the torque converter didn’t seat in the pump correctly you can wipe out the trans.

Did you install the trans or was it already assembled?

Thanks, i'm going to check the linkage once i can get under the car. It was there when I bought the car. A couple of fishy things, the previous owner said he installed an oversized Cam but left a stock torque converter in the FMX, and that I would eventually need a bigger converter to match. Also, I see "ZERO" Vacuum lines hooked up from the tranny to the manifold right now.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Thanks, i'm going to check the linkage once i can get under the car. It was there when I bought the car. A couple of fishy things, the previous owner said he installed an oversized Cam but left a stock torque converter in the FMX, and that I would eventually need a bigger converter to match. Also, I see "ZERO" Vacuum lines hooked up from the tranny to the manifold right now. View attachment 87057

Vacuum modulator won’t keep it from going into first.

Check fluid lines for kinks and verify good flow.

 

[giantpune]

Vacuum modulator won’t keep it from going into first.

Check fluid lines for kinks and verify good flow.

Yep. If you dont have the vacuum hookup to a properly working transmission, you can still drop it into gear and drive around. It wont shift on its own, but you can put the selector into different gears and the transmission will try to move the car in R, D, 2, and 1.

 

[GERMYS_72]

Hello and welcome from SW Ontario Canada.
you have a good project by the looks of it. A lot of work ahead but it's doable.
To verify if it's a Mach 1 or fastback, the VIN will tell you. If it read 2f05XXXXX it's a Mach 1. If it is 2f02XXXXX it's a fastback. 2 is the year produced, f denotes it was made in Dearborn, 02 or 05 denote the model and the XXXXXXX is the sequential build number.
As for the motor, sorry, but if it were mine, I'd be on the hunt for a Cleveland, preferably a 71 4V M code with closed chamber heads. These motors could be found with 2 or 4 bolt mains, but unless you're racing it, 4 bolt is no big advantage.
Others will for sure have lots of ideas and comments.
Good luck with it and ask lots of questions. Have fun with it.

Stanglover,
1970 351C 4V M-Code has arrived. Thanks for the suggestion

 

[Stanglover]

Stanglover,
1970 351C 4V M-Code has arrived. Thanks for the suggestionView attachment 87267

That is an awesome find brother! A complete M code sans carb.
What are your plans for it before installing? If it were mine, the minimum would be strip, clean and paint. If you have an engine stand, that would be good to work on it. I would pull the valve covers and check the date codes, that way it will give you an idea of the casting code without pulling the intake manifold. I would also try to do a compression check on all cylinders. With plugs out, that's not too hard to do. That will at least give you a good idea of the health of that motor before installing it, then finding out it needs a rebuild.
The earlier the date on the heads, will indicate the chamber cc. Early heads were net 62.8cc or around 11:1 comp. The block casting will be slightly different too. Early blocks had 2 oil drain holes at the back, see pic of a block I stupidly sold. In early 71, those holes were eliminated and an ugly hole cast at the front, pic #2. Pic #3 is my block casting code and date code. Pic #4 is my head, date code 0M1, 1970 Dec 01 . Date code are year/month/day. Month codes are A through M, no I.
I'll not go further on that right now, but a good source of information can be found on www.mustangtek.com. It's good ,but not perfect.
We have other members far more knowledgeable that am I who will no doubt help out.

 

[GERMYS_72]

That is an awesome find brother! A complete M code sans carb.
What are your plans for it before installing? If it were mine, the minimum would be strip, clean and paint. If you have an engine stand, that would be good to work on it. I would pull the valve covers and check the date codes, that way it will give you an idea of the casting code without pulling the intake manifold. I would also try to do a compression check on all cylinders. With plugs out, that's not too hard to do. That will at least give you a good idea of the health of that motor before installing it, then finding out it needs a rebuild.
The earlier the date on the heads, will indicate the chamber cc. Early heads were net 62.8cc or around 11:1 comp. The block casting will be slightly different too. Early blocks had 2 oil drain holes at the back, see pic of a block I stupidly sold. In early 71, those holes were eliminated and an ugly hole cast at the front, pic #2. Pic #3 is my block casting code and date code. Pic #4 is my head, date code 0M1, 1970 Dec 01 . Date code are year/month/day. Month codes are A through M, no I.
I'll not go further on that right now, but a good source of information can be found on www.mustangtek.com. It's good ,but not perfect.
We have other members far more knowledgeable that am I who will no doubt help out.

Thanks Geoff. I'm going to grab an engine stand at harbor freight today, and if all goes as plan it will be on the stand tonight. My plan was to do the lightest rebuild I can get away with. (adjust valves, new head gaskets, possibly new rings, keep same pistons.) That is where guidance from others will come in handy. I would like to find the original matching carburetor, but that seems unlikely. I will try to snap photos of the engine code and valve codes soon and post.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks Geoff. I'm going to grab an engine stand at harbor freight today, and if all goes as plan it will be on the stand tonight. My plan was to do the lightest rebuild I can get away with. (adjust valves, new head gaskets, possibly new rings, keep same pistons.) That is where guidance from others will come in handy. I would like to find the original matching carburetor, but that seems unlikely. I will try to snap photos of the engine code and valve codes soon and post.

Sounds like a plan man!
I have a carb off my 71 Mcode. It was supposedly rebuilt but was replaced with a Holley Street Avenger 670 cfm. It's for sale $100 plus shipping. That said, It would likely need to be re gasketed again after 20+ years. The tag was not replaced after it was "rebuilt" and there are no other numbers on it, but it came with my car when I bought it and I have no reason to think otherwise. The base plate does show some burning from the exhaust heat riser but I think still usable. Message if interested.

 

[ib4stangs]

Block date 9L8 ~ Nov. 8, 1969
Intake 9L7
Left head 9L8
Right head 0K24

 

[GERMYS_72]

Block date 9L8 ~ Nov. 8, 1969
Intake 9L7
Left head 9L8
Right head 0K24
View attachment 87312

Awesome. I wonder if the Right head was replaced since it was almost a year later

 

[ib4stangs]

Awesome. I wonder if the Right head was replaced since it was almost a year later

I would say so. But that date still falls under the manufacture time for a 4V quench head.

I'd do a cylinder leak down test as part of your inspection before pulling heads. Might not need to...

https://tinyurl.com/2p9jtu3k

 

[GERMYS_72]

I would say so. But that date still falls under the manufacture time for a 4V quench head.

I'd do a cylinder leak down test as part of your inspection before pulling heads. Might not need to...

https://tinyurl.com/2p9jtu3k

Interesting. I'm reading that it was common for the L/R head to be made at different times. If the right head was replaced by Ford sometime after 1970 as part of a warranty issue would be the only thing I could think of.

 

[GERMYS_72]

After reading other threads, the Right head was definitely replaced at some point between 1970 and 1999 when it went into storage, but does the Right head fall into the same date range where it would have been manufactured on the same tooling as heads 11 months previously ? Mechanically it would be the same chamber volume, valve size etc ?

 

[Hemikiller]

You'd have to pull the intake to see what the casting number is on the underside of the head's intake runners. With an Oct 1970 casting date, my assumption is it's going to be a D1AE-GA head, which is a 71 model year closed chamber casting. The chambers on this head are about 3CC larger than the D0AE 70 model year closed chamber heads, but I wouldn't sweat the difference. It's also possible it's a very late D0AE casting that was a service part. I don't know how long Ford cast replacement D0AE heads, I do know the D1AE-GA castings were made through at least 1974.

The spacer between the PS pump and head is approx 3/4" thick. NPD offers a replacement, or just stack up washers to that thickness since you already have a 351C to swap in.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/spa...s=3d600&top_parent=200001&year=1970&year=1970

The lower hose is close to the belt, just be sure to use the correct molded hose for a 71-73 351C Mustang. The water pump casting is the same, they are just machined differently to fit a Cleveland or a Windsor.




Upper hoses between C and W are very different. You can use a 71-73 Mustang 302 upper hose, as they shared the same radiators.

 

[GERMYS_72]

You'd have to pull the intake to see what the casting number is on the underside of the head's intake runners. With an Oct 1970 casting date, my assumption is it's going to be a D1AE-GA head, which is a 71 model year closed chamber casting. The chambers on this head are about 3CC larger than the D0AE 70 model year closed chamber heads, but I wouldn't sweat the difference. It's also possible it's a very late D0AE casting that was a service part. I don't know how long Ford cast replacement D0AE heads, I do know the D1AE-GA castings were made through at least 1974.

The spacer between the PS pump and head is approx 3/4" thick. NPD offers a replacement, or just stack up washers to that thickness since you already have a 351C to swap in.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/spacer-power-steering-pump-mounting/148924?backurl=search/products?search_terms=3d600&top_parent=200001&year=1970&year=1970

The lower hose is close to the belt, just be sure to use the correct molded hose for a 71-73 351C Mustang. The water pump casting is the same, they are just machined differently to fit a Cleveland or a Windsor.

View attachment 87335


Upper hoses between C and W are very different. You can use a 71-73 Mustang 302 upper hose, as they shared the same radiators.


View attachment 87336

Thanks Hemikiller. I picked up the bendy hose at Autozone and it fit great.

If I get obsessive with trying to match the head numbers, I should be able to find a 69 stamped head. This one is really really close.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1263825395...l&brand=Fomoco&_trksid=p4247815.c101506.m1851

 

[72MustangSprint]

You engine is never going to be matching numbers so I’m confused why it matters.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks Hemikiller. I picked up the bendy hose at Autozone and it fit great.

If I get obsessive with trying to match the head numbers, I should be able to find a 69 stamped head. This one is really really close.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126382539538?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=262355,262136&meid=ddc70bbe098047d7857809f02fb9e02b&pid=101506&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=203959432696&itm=126382539538&pmt=0&noa=1&pg=4247815&algv=DefaultOrganicWebWithV11WebTrimmedV3VisualRankerWithKnnV3AndUltBRecall&brand=Fomoco&_trksid=p4247815.c101506.m1851

For that money, I'd not bother or keep looking.

 

[Hemikiller]

Yeah, that's bonkers money for a single D0AE head that needs everything - plus $153 shipping (to me).