tech upgrade for motor

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sgtbromen

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2014
Messages
69
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Location
minnesota
My Car
1971 fast back grabber blue 351 4V
as you know my engine hatched, i am trying to decide what plan i want to go with befor i even start pulling it i know i want factory heads intake ect i want to put a funtioning factory ram air in but i also want to beable to drive cross country alot! so i was considering a fast tbi systom with the hope that under the air cleaner you could not tell it was new tech and would look stock also i am hoping to get 400 to 450 hp with the stock parts but still keep it a reliable car. has anyone done a build like this will the tbi allow a working ram air with vacume requirements and how about internals?

 
Cleveland?

Budget?

2V or 4 V heads (You can get there either way)

What do you want for an exhaust system?

Here would be my process for building a reliable, long lasting engine

Since you want to run fuel injection, start by looking at the injection unit's cam needs-there will be an optimum range of cam profiles

also, you need to figure out what ignition unit will be the best choice with the injection unit as well.

Then-using the cam information, you'll know what you need for compression and gear ratios etc.

One easy way to make power is more compression and the other easy way is displacement.

A stroker crank kit isn't that much more than replacing and reconditioning stock parts. I prefer the 393 over the 408, but plenty of 408 owners disagree with me and I can't argue with their success.

Cam lift over .570 probably starts to dictate some significant valvetrain upgrades.

I believe that the Harland Sharp Roller Rockers are the best choice for most Clevelands. There are others I like less, but that isn't based on any scientific research.

Forged pistons-may be a stock replacement or one with a more modern (low friction) ring pack-or will come with a stroker kit.

Internally balanced rotating assembly-this adds to the costs as you will need a neutrally balanced dampener and a neutrally balanced flywheel or flexplate-but the advantage is that the crank harmonics are lessened reducing the need for 4 bolt mains or other strengthening devices.

Many people sleeve the lifter bores to improve the oiling system-if you want to go that far, it is a great modification, but . . . it probably is overkill in a 450 hp engine

oil restricting pushrods and the tmeyer full groove cam bearings are what I ended up using

It is all a balancing act, so determine if the fuel injection is the way you want to go and build around its needs and you should be fine

 
Having driven my cars across the country dozens of times reliably, I have a strong opinion on fuel injection.

Nobody has more time in designing fuel injection than the OEMs. Ford's EEC-IV or EEC-V systems are the most flexible, tuneable, and reliable systems out there.

Short of Ford injection, I would look at Megasquirt 3. The old Megasquirt 2 stuff doesn't do sequential injection for 8 cylinders, so the 3 is the way forward.

If you're severely technically, electrically, and computer challenged, you may have to use one of the dumbed down, half assed, second rate injection systems out there like Holley's or basically any throttle body injection system (crap). Things are now moving towards direct injection with sequential multiport injection being its predecessor, so I wouldn't settle for anything less.

 
I've had a few 5.0L mustangs that I have swapped in 393W's. The 5.0L fuel injection worked great. Use a 9AL ECU (manual) them you can use whatever parts you like. I like Pro-M Mass Air Meters and Accufab Throttle Bodies and then an Anderson Ford Motorsports Power Pipe. As for an intake, I like the Trick Flow EFI intake (they also offer one for the Cleveland). You didn't ask but I just thought I would offer..

 
I've had a few 5.0L mustangs that I have swapped in 393W's. The 5.0L fuel injection worked great. Use a 9AL ECU (manual) them you can use whatever parts you like. I like Pro-M Mass Air Meters and Accufab Throttle Bodies and then an Anderson Ford Motorsports Power Pipe. As for an intake, I like the Trick Flow EFI intake (they also offer one for the Cleveland). You didn't ask but I just thought I would offer..
Solid suggestions. I believe the ECU is an A9L, however. In fact, any EEC-IV computer using the GUFB strategy will work and those include X3Z, A9L, A3M, A3M2, and a few others. If youwant to be able to tune the calibration, look at the Moates Quarterhorse or TwEECer RT.

 
sgtbromen,

Take a look at this fuel injection setup from Professional products. I know of a person who installed on a 1970 Chevy Nova with 350 that had the Holley Carburetor installed. Yes, Chevy! I heard the before and after installation and what a difference it made. Especially for cold starts.

http://www.professional-products.com/Powerjection-III-c68/

Powerjection EFI systems are complete and fully programmable replacement EFI systems. Powerjection incorporates some of the most impressive feature sets available for the do-it-yourself hobbyist or professional shop. Powerjection consists of two distinct styles: Powerjection III is a throttle body style carburetor replacement EFI system with the EMS integrated into the throttle body for the hot-rodder who wants the look of a carburetor. Powerjection+Plus is a port fuel injection system with the EMS mounted on the manifold. Powerjection+Plus is designed for those who desire port fuel injection and/or very high horsepower capability. To the driver who is unaware what is under the hood there will be no discernable difference in the way the car drives with either system. We use interchangeable components that are OEM grade. We offer both designs to meet the needs and desires for the do-it-yourselfer. Here are some of the features shared by all of our systems:

mustang7173

 
If you think a cheap ass Professional Products system is going to outperform the Ford EEC series, you might be part of the market segment Professional Products needs!

I have Professional Products fuel rails on my EEC-V system on the '71, but the rails are notorious for leaking. I finally did resolve my leaks by using Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket sealant, but the teflon stuff didn't work at all.

 
Mesozoic,

Sorry to hear about the Professional Products fuel rails on my EEC-V system on your 1971. It is a pain in the butt when a product does not live up to its expectations. Also, I am not knocking the Ford Fuel injection with EEC system either.

I do not think that the 5.0 mustang or Cougar EFI V-8 versions are as abundant in a complete turnkey scenario. The 302 with EFI was produced throughout the 90’s, but were progressively replaced by the 4.6 Liter until December 2000. Can a complete UN-molested system be found? Probably. Since they are at least 14 years old, they are getting harder to find as time goes on.

The MegaSquirt EEC looks like a fine replacement EEC control system to an existing or transplanted system. I will have to forward to a friend who transplanted a 1998 Cougar 5.0 EFI system to his 1973 Hardtop.

The Professional products was mentioned to due to real world experience per my friend who installed the kit and drove the auto on a daily basis! I do not endorse any products mentioned. Just try to provide options so that forum members can make good decisions.

Mustang7173

 
You don't need to buy a junkyard harness to retrofit EEC-IV. You can buy a brand new one from Painless Wiring and I think even Ford Racing sells them. RJM Injection used to also sell them, but I think Fireguy fizzled away and the business no longer exists.

Whatever you do, stay AWAY from throttle body injection. I'd be more comfortable running a carb over TBI.

 
You don't need to buy a junkyard harness to retrofit EEC-IV. You can buy a brand new one from Painless Wiring and I think even Ford Racing sells them. RJM Injection used to also sell them, but I think Fireguy fizzled away and the business no longer exists.

Whatever you do, stay AWAY from throttle body injection. I'd be more comfortable running a carb over TBI.

The wiring kit I used was from Ford. I don't recall the part number, sorry. However, I ordered mine from Summit.

 
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