Tim's 1973 Mach 1 rebuild thread - it's done in 2023 on it's 50th birthday!

[Stanglover]

Tim, it seems like you have it all sorted. Nothing wrong with using "restored" parts like the bolts. I too could have cleaned them up, but decided to swap to galvanized.  

As for the filter for the vent, if the "spirals" are stainless, they should work I think as long as they can't fall out. The Scotch Brite I was thinking about was the green or brown scouring pads, also used for light sanding. There may well be better filter material out there that will work as long as it's gas (petrol) proof. Take a look at the local auto parts store. I've not seen the original material for sale anywhere, so it's finding something that will do the job I guess.

Part of the reason I ended up buying the Dorman fuel sender was that the Spectra one that was being sold by Rock Auto at the time, was incorrect for our cars. The tube was facing the wrong way. After realizing this, I bought that to their attention and they replaced it with the Dorman. I've been very happy with that so far, no issues.

So glad you are using proper fuel line clamps. I just have a personal hatred for them for anything other then where they were intended or temporary use while setting up. I cringe when I see so called professionals on these "made for TV" car restoration shows and they use gear clamps everywhere! Give me a break!

Anyway Tim, so glad the car is coming together, keep up the good work.

 

[Don C]

+1 on using the correct clamps. I was watching one of the game warden shows on TV (I believe Texas) a few months ago and they were investigating a personal watercraft (jet ski) explosion. Turned out their mechanic had replaced the original clamps with worm gear clamps, which caused the fuel leak. 

I prefer the constant tension spring clamps, easy to use and re-usable, and won't damage the hose the way the slots in worm gear clamps do.

constant-tension hose clamps | McMaster-Carr

David (Carolina Mountain Mustangs) uses the foam used on lawn mower air filters as a replacement for the vapor vent. I like the Scotch Brite, they're stainless steel, made out of continuous strands so there aren't any small pieces falling out, and keep the liquid fuel from splashing into the vent tube and drains any liquid back into the tank quickly. They are also good for the valve cover vents and caps.

 

[timachone]

Geoff, 

thank you for your input again. Now I know what you mean with the Scotch Brite. From that stuff I have always some in the garage, it is good for metal parts to prepare for painting  :thumb:  

I will keep you up to date! 

 

[timachone]

Disassembled the rear tank - all parts were original and I saw some crud on the tank floor. Good, that it all will be renewed although tank was looking not that bad. Will keep it in the attic. 



















The fuel vent above the tank was completely empty, no remnants of any filter-thing. The opening to the fuel hose is small like a needle. Was it empty originally, previous owner removed it or did it dissolve itself? What do you think? It looks so clean... 

 

[Stanglover]

Tim,

Nice pictures that tell a story. It looks like the crud in the old tank is more like sediment rather than rust residue. For the cost, still not a bad idea to replace the tank with a nice new shiny one. Your original fuel sender filter looks exactly the same as the one I took out of mine, rotten. You know, thinking back to when I took my tank out, I'm pretty sure mine had nothing (left) in the vent cap either. I think I was going on what others were saying that there was a filter material installed to stop back splash into the tube. If a small amount of fuel were to get into that tube, it would likely just evaporate back into the tank. However, it can't hurt to put something there provided it doesn't stop the venting process or fall out into the tank.

Maybe time to dig into the books again. Ok, I found the section in the Ford manual. All it says is to replace the vent assembly if found defective. so, no longer available, there is a filter medium, so we need to find a replacement.

 

[timachone]

Next onto the front brakes. Including restoring the original spindles, dust shields and new calipers. 

First I disassembled the brake assembly... 

 

[69 Rustang]

This is what I believe they were referring to for scotch brite.  They also come in very-very fine, but I don’t have the part number handy for that one.

 

[timachone]

Tim,

Nice pictures that tell a story. It looks like the crud in the old tank is more like sediment rather than rust residue. For the cost, still not a bad idea to replace the tank with a nice new shiny one. Your original fuel sender filter looks exactly the same as the one I took out of mine, rotten. You know, thinking back to when I took my tank out, I'm pretty sure mine had nothing (left) in the vent cap either. I think I was going on what others were saying that there was a filter material installed to stop back splash into the tube. If a small amount of fuel were to get into that tube, it would likely just evaporate back into the tank. However, it can't hurt to put something there provided it doesn't stop the venting process or fall out into the tank.

Maybe time to dig into the books again. Ok, I found the section in the Ford manual. All it says is to replace the vent assembly if found defective. so, no longer available, there is a filter medium, so we need to find a replacement.

View attachment 49321

Geoff, 

thank you very much! 

That's the proof there was anything in there! Although the hole in the vent is very tiny it could make sense - Ford did not do anything about nothing... 

Yeah, I think the crud is sediments and other stuff from almost 50 years of fuel in it. Some kind of fascinating to look in the tank with some rests of fuel in it... 

I will put in the new tank with all new gaskets and stuff and even ordered the new Dorman sender from Rockauto  :thumb:  

I already have one from Mustang Unlimited but it has this float on it I don't like. And even I have a spare brass float I could not get it to stay in the wire... 

In the end I will cut some round piece of Scotch-British material and try to get it in the vent! 

 

[timachone]

This is what I believe they were referring to for scotch brite.  They also come in very-very fine, but I don’t have the part number handy for that one.

View attachment 49340

Yepp, that's the pads Geoff and I came to the conclusion it will be the best for the vent! 

Thank you again  :thumb:

 

[timachone]

Evaporust took it's time but made some almost new rear shock and sway bar plates, differential shield and axle tube flange bolts again  :thumb:

 

[timachone]

Later I disassembled the brake caliper and had to find out the bleeder screw was so rusted in I got her only out with some blow torch and penetration oil and really big power... As I saw the seat of the bleeder screw it was totally rusted. The caliper will clean up though and a new bleeder screw will have some seat but I decided not to trust it anyway. 350 hp and 1.5 tons have to stop when I want it to so I invested in some new calipers from rockauto... Since the original calipers have "Kelsey Hayes" on the rubber and I have all the extra parts to restore them I will keep them and make an overhaul some day - but not now! 













Fresh bolts from AMK will replace them  :thumb:



Still some seat with a bit cleaning and a new bleeder screw but not enough for me - will replace them but keep the old ones for later... 

 

[timachone]

Found some old ball joint removal tools that hardly never fit on any vehicle but on the old Mustang they fit like they should - bingo! Never waist some old tool  :wrench:

Some turns on the bolts and out they popped without hammering and fiddling around  :thumb:













Next will be the shocks, upper and lower control arms and the strut rods... 

 

[Stanglover]

Tim, Just one last note on the filter material for the vent. Just to be sure, take a piece of the material you plan on using and soak it in petrol for an extended time just to be sure it will not dissolve or break up. I don't think it will, but best to be sure. Anytime you're introducing a material into a solvent based fluid, do a test over a few days at least. Use a glass jar with a lid to prevent evaporation.

 

[timachone]

Tim, Just one last note on the filter material for the vent. Just to be sure, take a piece of the material you plan on using and soak it in petrol for an extended time just to be sure it will not dissolve or break up. I don't think it will, but best to be sure. Anytime you're introducing a material into a solvent based fluid, do a test over a few days at least. Use a glass jar with a lid to prevent evaporation.

Excellent advice, will do so  :thumb:

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I cannot believe how clean your tank and sending unit were. I would be afraid of using the scotch brite pad in the vent. It contains fine abrasives that the pick up screen will not catch. Might get into your fuel filter and clog. Use some kind of ethanol resistant filter material. You can buy just the pick up filter for the tank unit also.
I got several sets of NOS Ford front disc brake pads on Ebay for $10.00 recently. Daniel Carpenter had in his E-bay store.

 

[Stanglover]

After reading David's comments on Scotch Brite, I decided to rethink that idea. First I looked up Scotch Brite on Wikipedia and sure enough it does contain silica or titanium abrasive compounds. Then I thought about how big the piece would need to be to fit into the vent cap. I'm guessing, but I think it would be around 1.5" diam. So, I took a couple of pieces about that size and had then soaking in gasoline for 4 days in a sealed glass jar. There is no sign of any abrasive dislodging from the Scotch Brite, nor has the material degraded. If there were abrasives dislodging, the amount would be so small not to be a problem.

However, rethinking using this material, I think now I would avoid it in favor of an open cell foam or the SS scouring pad talked about earlier. Good Idea to do a gas soak test first. Just be careful with open gas and fumes.

 

[timachone]

After reading David's comments on Scotch Brite, I decided to rethink that idea. First I looked up Scotch Brite on Wikipedia and sure enough it does contain silica or titanium abrasive compounds. Then I thought about how big the piece would need to be to fit into the vent cap. I'm guessing, but I think it would be around 1.5" diam. So, I took a couple of pieces about that size and had then soaking in gasoline for 4 days in a sealed glass jar. There is no sign of any abrasive dislodging from the Scotch Brite, nor has the material degraded. If there were abrasives dislodging, the amount would be so small not to be a problem.

However, rethinking using this material, I think now I would avoid it in favor of an open cell foam or the SS scouring pad talked about earlier. Good Idea to do a gas soak test first. Just be careful with open gas and fumes.

Geoff, 

I have also took some Scotch Brite into old gas a few days and nothing seems to degrade. But how knows what will be for years? I have found an inch of the old material in the gas thank. All other stuff has disintegrated. I think now, a Scotch Brite SS scouring pad will be the best in durability and I then have no more to thin about in a loooong time. Thank you for your observations! 

 

[timachone]

Although busy (but who's not) I owe you an update, time run fast, the more you see your kids raising. Became once more a father almost 7 weeks ago, a little son named Aaron, he will like the Mustang, when he will be a little older, I guess. So I am proud of to have some more little man-backup here in the hobby in future  :thumb:

I made a lot of dirty work (not what some minds may think now...) the last weeks which involved degreasing, paint stripping, de-rusting and painting a lot of parts. I feeled almost french and thought more often about Chef Cook Fabrice... This includes also my wife ranting with me about some mess here and there... But all in all she stands behind it as she stated I have to make a big step forward this year and so she let me in the garage when ever it is possible despite 4 kids and one of them is just 7 weeks old. However there are some other small projects involved with house and garden and kids and... happy wife and kids, happy Mustang, you know  :thumb: But I am very grateful for letting me work on the car as much as I can so I think this year I could really take a big strike on the project. Therefore back to the topic, I was more and more into dismantling the whole front and rear suspension and brakelage: 







That is a really nice and reliable tool - when you understand how it works you don't have to have fear of flying springs: 













Where some squirrel may have lost his beloved nut... 





Searching for the long lost idler arms, a big mystery around the 71-73 Mustangs, big searches around our forum, the web, two bad buys I found the holy grail: 

Some NOS Moog K-8165, the now obsolete better design idler arm for our Mustangs, new in a box. Man, what a find! And it fit perfectly on the rails, no lengthened holes needed! 





 

Here are some more left: 

https://www.ebay.de/itm/402480425190?epid=191125119&hash=item5db5b3e8e6:g:5D4AAOSw0vVfflWm

Rebuilt of the original Brake Proportional Valve with parts kit of West Coast Cougar Classics: 







No back to real dirty and stinky work: paint removal with chemicals: 







Acid bath à la Chef Cook Fabrice: 



2-3 days and the result was fantastic: 







Some Brantho Korrux 3 in 1 spray can stuff later it looks like new but better protected: 



Same for the axle plates: 











More to come in the next hours... 

 

[timachone]

Removed the original brake booster and did a bench test: 



















It was holding vacuum forever! So hurray, the membranes are ok, no need to dismantle the booster case! 









I ordered a new front seal, a new rear bellow and some foam rubber from Harmon Classic Brakes, the seal for the firewall I will do by myself  :thumb:

 

[timachone]

Now to the drive shaft. After careful paint stripping I made a big surprise I did not expected. But see: 















All original colors have survived!!! What a find! 

Some kind of Rosa - Red - Yellow - Orange 

That's what I am talking about! No pseudo coloring - these are the real colors which will be on the drive-shaft again! 

1973 351C 4V with 4-speed and 3.50 rear... 

But there where more: 



Some kind of orange striping



Yellow paint daub



Totally cleaned



Painted and ready for the stripes (will come soon but later)