Transmission issues

[Brad_P]

So i brought my mustang to a mechanic shop because i was getting a leak from the inspection pan, he pulled the trans a brought it to a shop and they had said i needed to replace the front seal aswell as a bushing. Cost would be around $900, then today i called the mechanic and he said they also had dropped the pan and found some metal shavings, he said to get it rebuilt would be 1200 ontop of the 900 im already having to pay. Do these prices sound in line? also im finding new transmissions on the internet from monster for like $1000, should i just go that route instead of rebuilding? The way my car is set up with a C6 trans that you have to shift with the selector. D is 1st 2 is 2nd and 1 is 3rd.


http://www.monstertransmission.com/C6-Heavy-Duty-Performance-Transmission-2WD-Small-Block_p_5070.html

This one is suppose to be able to do both automatic and select shift, would i need other parts to make this kind of thing work or would it prettymuch bolt right on?

 

[jbojo]

So i brought my mustang to a mechanic shop because i was getting a leak from the inspection pan, he pulled the trans a brought it to a shop and they had said i needed to replace the front seal aswell as a bushing. Cost would be around $900, then today i called the mechanic and he said they also had dropped the pan and found some metal shavings, he said to get it rebuilt would be 1200 ontop of the 900 im already having to pay. Do these prices sound in line? also im finding new transmissions on the internet from monster for like $1000, should i just go that route instead of rebuilding? The way my car is set up with a C6 trans that you have to shift with the selector. D is 1st 2 is 2nd and 1 is 3rd.


http://www.monstertransmission.com/C6-Heavy-Duty-Performance-Transmission-2WD-Small-Block_p_5070.html

This one is suppose to be able to do both automatic and select shift, would i need other parts to make this kind of thing work or would it prettymuch bolt right on?

I think that I would get a new one from Summit (free shipping) or directly from TCI or other manufacturers. Would run you around $1400.00 and they have the shift kits in them. When you order the new one you can order the correct shift pattern if you want or you can get the same pattern if you prefer that.

 

[will e]

If you have them rebuild it you can get the correct shifter and have them swap it out. Your transmission must have come from something other than a Mustang. Perhaps something with a column shifter.


You might consider just going to a 4speed with an OD. If my C6 died that's what I would seriously consider doing.

It will cost more but the drivability will improve. If you want you can then get lower rear end gears (numerically higher) which will give more pep off the line.

And since you are getting higher gears you will want to get bigger tires. Probably need new rims for them. With those newer rims you will have room for a disc brake conversion in the back...

And that's how a 900 dollar repair turns in to a $7000 project.

But seriously, you might review your 4 speed OD options.

 

[jbojo]

If you have them rebuild it you can get the correct shifter and have them swap it out. Your transmission must have come from something other than a Mustang. Perhaps something with a column shifter.

When I was looking at transmissions you could get the reverse shift patterns. They can be programmed by valve body changes similar to shift kits.

 

[will e]

Oh yeah, you are probably right. Otherwise it would all be off.

 

[Brad_P]

What would be the correct shifter?

 

[mjlan]

Brad- is it possible that your transmission has what's called a 'manual reverse' valve body in it?

The 'reverse' portion of the name would change the order of the forward gears (to avoid moving the shifter towards neutral and reverse when racing) , the 'manual' would allow the driver to hold the transmission in gear, it won't shift manually.

$900 sounds like a lot to just replace a front pump seal and bushing. Does that include the labor for R&R-ing the transmission as well?

 

[Brad_P]

Yeah id wouldnt want to have it swapped the other way, i dont race the car. Should i leave it in the select shift format or put it back so that it auto shifts in drive? 900 is with labor for the seal and bushing, he said it would be an additional 1200 to get it rebuilt and installed.

 

[barnett468]

They are smokin crack . . $900 labor to do a simple 3 1/2 hour job at the most it a f'n rip off.

12 qts tranny fluid x $6.00 = $72.00

I suggest you find someone that doesn't have a drug habit to support or alimony payments.

 

[scarpent1]

Like Jbojo said, buy a TCI transmission with a standard shift pattern from Summit with free shipping and have that installed in the car.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-411438/overview/

I would also get a new TCI torque converter and have that installed as well. If the engine is stock, I would stick with:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-441638/overview/

You would be way ahead of what they are charging you. Good luck with whatever you do.

 

[4Vforever]

They are smokin crack . . $900 labor to do a simple 3 1/2 hour job at the most it a f'n rip off.

12 qts tranny fluid x $6.00 = $72.00

I suggest you find someone that doesn't have a drug habit to support or alimony payments.

Yeah and 31/2 hours would be doing it on your own, in your own garage, with the car on jack stands and dropping the the box out on a trolley jack and reinstalling it all. Gees I tell you what, some of these crazy prices I hear of lately being charged to do mechanical work, or assembling an engine together, I should seriously think about getting back in the mechanical trade. I should dust off all my micrometers, bore gauges etc and go back to engine assembly. If I charged the prices what some of these guys are asking now days, I could afford to be retired.

 

[Brad_P]

I called a second place to get a price and they told me it would be 2100-2400 to rebuild a c6 trans. They said if i supplied a new one it would cost 650 for the labor. Should i even worry about a few metal shavings or just keep on running it for now?

 

[jbojo]

I called a second place to get a price and they told me it would be 2100-2400 to rebuild a c6 trans. They said if i supplied a new one it would cost 650 for the labor. Should i even worry about a few metal shavings or just keep on running it for now?

I think it all depends on how it was running before you removed it and the amount of metal shavings in the pan. My concern would be installing it as is with the seal fix and then a few months later pulling it again to replace or repair the tranny. If you are doing the installing then it's just your time but if you are paying someone then the cost starts to build up as far as the labor is concerned.

If I were in your shoes I'd want to fix it now since everything is apart already. It may take more time to get it back on the road but its better to fix it right the first time. BTW was the repair shop reputable and were you present when they removed the pan. I am leery of these shops anymore because $$$ vice quality is their main concerns anymore. I had a motor that was rebuilt and I found several issues with it. I wound up tearing it all apart and reassembling it myself because of their shoddy work.

 

[captthundarr]

Some metal shavings are normal in C4, C6, TH350 ect. Any shop that gets $250.00 an hour labor for a bushing and seal change is smokin High end weed. I've had good expierances with Monster, TCI and B&M.

 

[MeZapU]

The C6 is a very simple transmission and therefore should be cheap to rebuild. I know people with 700-R4's that would get $850 rebuilds and they'd be fine. You would just need to install the trans yourself. I'd run away from the transmission shop you are using.

Metal shavings in the pan are pretty normal. I'd just install a new filter, adjust the bands, change the seal without the bushing and drive it until you can afford the rebuilt/new transmission.

Years ago when my C6 was worn out I went through the same issue you are having. I ordered an Art Carr C-6 and a TCI 2400 stall converter. The most difficult part about the swap was installing the original shift selector arm into the new transmission. I needed to take an old wrench and modify it to work. The transmission never gave me a lick of trouble. If I would have done it again I'd of put in a 2600-2800 stall. It has 3.50 gears and it would have helped get the car out of the hole with more gusto.

About five years later I swapped in a toploader 4-speed and never looked back. Gave the car about 40 more horsepower vs the C6.

 

[Brad_P]

So the torque converter is shot and 2nd gear has some wear on it. The shop said the metal shavings were from the torque converter and that's what are away the seal and bushings. At this point it's all out of the car and I'm thinking I should just go with a new trans and torque converter. Any recommendations on torque converters to go along with a performance trans.

 

[Brad_P]

Javier at monster recommended the torque convertor option with the 1900-2300 stall.

Convertor pilot size 1.375 option (is this correct?).

Shift firmness option level 2.

What I know about performance of the motor is that it is a 351c bored out .60 over so that should be like a 361 (correct me if im wrong). It does have an aftermarket cam of some sort aswell as aftermarket headers. From the for sale add I found on my car it says that it has a 3.77:1 rear end.Would the 1900-2300 stall be the one for me to go with?

 

[jbojo]

Javier at monster recommended the torque convertor option with the 1900-2300 stall.

Convertor pilot size 1.375 option (is this correct?).

Shift firmness option level 2.

What I know about performance of the motor is that it is a 351c bored out .60 over so that should be like a 361 (correct me if im wrong). It does have an aftermarket cam of some sort aswell as aftermarket headers. From the for sale add I found on my car it says that it has a 3.77:1 rear end.Would the 1900-2300 stall be the one for me to go with?

I believe that displacement is around 372 now.

I believe a Q code 351 had a stall of around 2800. I would talk to a couple of transmission shops, TCI, B&M for example and ask them. They will want to know weight of the car, rear end ratio, HP and type of cam etc. I am thinking that 2500 to 3000 is where you want to be but I am no expert on this. I went with 2800 based on my car and it seems to be ok. I am sure you'll get some good recommendations from others here. Good luck.

 

[MeZapU]

1900-2300 stall is stock stall. Even 2400 is what I'd consider a stock feeling torque converter. That is why I recommended a 2600-2800 stall. Take your pick of aftermarket torque converter vendors, usually you get what you pay for but with a relatively mild engine you don't need anything fancy.

Shavings in the pan from the torque converter? I'm still not convinced. If that bushing is shot they will all be shot and I'd expect all around a very worn out transmission. I've seen nibs from the steels of the clutch packs, even big sections of friction material in the pan, but can honestly say I've never seen a torque converter eat itself.