Underside of Intake manifold

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I believe the primary reason Ford used the turkey pan was for cooling the intake manifold, cooler air is denser and denser means more power. The second reason was to keep oil off the exhaust crossover.

For them, it was probably faster to install the turkey pan with end gaskets already attached, rather than dealing with gluing on the two side gaskets and then the two end pieces.
I agree Don. We also have to factor in that the stock cast iron intake manifold retains a lot of heat. An aluminum intake will hold less heat and dissipate it more efficiently making the turkey pan less important. 

Ron
 I had thoughts of ditching the sock manifold in favor of a Blue Thunder, not only because it is somewhat stock appearing, but for less residual heat.

 Perhaps Studdley might consider this as an option. Just a thought.

 
Stanglover is right on the money when he talked about using Permatex's "The right stuff". I am an engine assembler for a living, and , I may not have seen it all, but I've seen a lot of different products used to seal up various engine components. The right stuff is definitely appropriately named. As opposed to auto parts, or hardware store tube RTV, ( which cures to a soft rubbery and not-so fuel resistant viscosity) , "The right stuff "will cure to a denser, fuel and oil resistant form. Since the topic is about intake manifolds, I should add that I have found that using this product, and never using a cork or rubber end seal across the valley under intake manifolds, I get 100% sealing, no comebacks, and customer satisfaction by doing so. I use the 6" caulking gun at work and have gotten to be quite a "pastry chef" with the way I handle it, working a tight zig-zag along the edge to a pre-determined height ( intake mocked up ahead of time with gaskets to determine gap to be sealed ) so that it compresses but doesn't squish out unsightly. It comes out so nicely that I never have to smear my finger along it, as I see done my a lot of do-it-yourselfers.

Point is, there is a "right stuff", and a right way to do it as well.

In addition, the general use of silicones and RTVs is grossly overdone by most enthusiasts. I do use the "right stuff' on sealing oil pans, usually on the end "crescents', but much of any engine can be sealed with Gasgacinch and / or the liquid brown Permatex. Many fibre intake manifold gaskets used on racing engines will use white grease sparingly around intake ports as well.

 
Stanglover is right on the money when he talked about using Permatex's "The right stuff". I am an engine assembler for a living, and , I may not have seen it all, but I've seen a lot of different products used to seal up various engine components. The right stuff is definitely appropriately named. As opposed to auto parts, or hardware store tube RTV, ( which cures to a soft rubbery and not-so fuel resistant viscosity) , "The right stuff "will cure to a denser, fuel and oil resistant form.  Since the topic is about intake manifolds, I should add that I have found that using this product, and never using a cork or rubber end seal across the valley under intake manifolds, I get 100% sealing, no comebacks, and customer satisfaction by doing so. I use the 6" caulking gun at work and have gotten to be quite a "pastry chef" with the way I handle it, working a tight zig-zag along the edge to a pre-determined height  ( intake mocked up ahead of time with gaskets to determine gap to be sealed ) so that it compresses but doesn't squish out unsightly.  It comes out so nicely that I never have to smear my finger along it, as I see done my a lot of do-it-yourselfers.

      Point is, there is a "right stuff", and a right way to do it as well.

      In addition, the general use of silicones and RTVs is grossly overdone by most enthusiasts. I do use the "right stuff' on sealing oil pans, usually on the end "crescents', but much of any engine can be sealed with Gasgacinch and / or the liquid brown Permatex.  Many fibre intake manifold gaskets used on racing engines will use white grease sparingly around intake ports as well.
I am a Right stuff fan and it is all I use. It is very effective. I hate leaks.

 
Spike, I appreciate your comments on the use of "The Right Stuff" and it sounds like you certainly have become "The Pastry Chef" with your refined application method. Very good tip there.

The ONLY problem I have with The Right Stuff, is it would be wonderful IF it could be bought in a smaller tube. I literally wasted 20 bucks worth last time I did the manifold as I didn't need it for anything else. Now the remainder of the tube is rock solid and junk!

Geoff.

 
I am a Right stuff fan and it is all I use. It is very effective. I hate leaks.
 Ron, I with you on hating leaks. When the motor had to be rebuilt (again) in 2016 under warranty, they used the rubber end seals and they leaked! Had to do it myself and used "The Right Stuff". No more leaks.

 
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Spike, I appreciate your comments on the use of "The Right Stuff" and it sounds like you certainly have become "The Pastry Chef" with your refined application method. Very good tip there.

The ONLY problem I have with The Right Stuff, is it would be wonderful IF it could be bought in a smaller tube. I literally wasted 20 bucks worth last time I did the manifold as I didn't need it for anything else. Now the remainder of the tube is rock solid and junk!

Geoff.
I have purchased it in the smaller squeeze tube when I do not need that much. It will also keep longer in the squeeze tubes if they are sealed after use. The caulk gun tubes go bad pretty quick once opened.

Ron

 
I used a small can size that I reused multiple times. I just made sure to leave a bit out of the end, left cap off so it dried & when I reused it I just pulled the dry plug out & no problem. Used it till can was empty.

 
I use the smaller approximately 6" caulking gun tube, and it will stay good for quite a while. ( Permatex offers a dedicated 6" gun just for the smaller cartridge.) What I do after the first use of a new cartridge, is to push a big nail up inside the plastic nozzle, or tip. I don't release the ratchet , rather leave the contents under some tension ( not enough to push the nail out ), which keeps the tip from drawing any air back into the cartridge. The contents will stay like new for a few months. I've never had a cartridge harden up on me, although, in reality, I suppose I do a bit of engine work and it may not have enough time to really go bad....I can understand if someone is doing just ONE engine, and not have any further use for it where they would think it's not as economical as some other product. The fact remains though, that this stuff is really "the right stuff', and the professional way to seal up manifolds . It's like using a tapered piston installer sleeve to install pistons into their bores....once you use it, you'll ask yourself why use a cheaper alternative.

GEEEEEEZE....Listen to me...I should be a salesman for Permatex !

 
I use the smaller approximately 6" caulking gun tube, and it will stay good for quite a while.  ( Permatex offers a dedicated 6" gun just for the smaller cartridge.) What I do after the first use of a new cartridge, is to push a big nail up inside the plastic nozzle, or tip. I don't release the ratchet , rather leave the contents under some tension ( not enough to push the nail out ), which keeps the tip from drawing any air back into the cartridge. The contents will stay like new for a few months. I've never had a cartridge harden up on me, although, in reality, I suppose I do a bit of engine work and it may not have enough time to really go bad....I can understand if someone is doing just ONE engine, and not have any further use for it where they would think it's not as economical as some other product. The fact remains though, that this stuff is really "the right stuff', and the professional way to seal up manifolds . It's like using a tapered piston installer sleeve to install pistons into their bores....once you use it, you'll ask yourself why use a cheaper alternative.

GEEEEEEZE....Listen to me...I should be a salesman for Permatex !
Spike, perhaps we ALL should get a bonus check from Permatex!!

 In my working life, I used countless caulking gun tubes of RTV and always sealed them as you describe. In my case here, I only needed it for just the one job, so unfortunately the rest got wasted. I had NOT seen tubes of "The Right Stuff" at the local auto parts store, didn't even know they supplied it in tubes, but I will check that out for future reference.

Geoff.

 
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This in an old thread and topic but I have a correction regarding "Right stuff" (1) You can not buy it in a squeeze tube as I had originally said but you can buy it in a "cheese wiz" type dispenser. (2) I had used a similar product that was used by Ford dealership technicians in the early 1990s. This was basically the same thing as "Right stuff" and came in a caulk gun style tube with a Ford Part #. I just wanted clarify that for everyone.

Ron

 
That it is, but 5 ounces of Right Stuff is $20 at O'Reilly's.

I remember the first time I encountered the Ford stuff, and comparing it to the RTV crap we could buy at the time. My only complaint about the Ford stuff was how hard it was to remove, or remove a differential cover that it was used on.

 
That it is, but 5 ounces of Right Stuff is $20 at O'Reilly's.

I remember the first time I encountered the Ford stuff, and comparing it to the RTV crap we could buy at the time. My only complaint about the Ford stuff was how hard it was to remove, or remove a differential cover that it was used on.
 Interesting! The only way I have found to buy the Right Stuff here in Canada is in the small corking-gun tube. It is wasteful that way if one only needs it for the ends on the manifold. Maybe I would need to buy some Mouse condoms as well. The Cheese-Wiz type tube might be a better way if it can be found.

 I wonder if the Ford Stuff is a similar if not the same product as the Right Stuff, just package differently.

 'Good Stuff' no matter!

Geoff.

 
I first used the Motorcraft version in the early 90s. My cousin was a tech at a Ford dealership and got me a tube. I used it at his suggestion when replacing the oil pan (long story) on my 92 Escort GT on Christmas day. It is hard to remove but so much better than many others. Another thing that sold me on it was when said cousin resealed the notoriously leaky valve covers on our aunts 77 Cordoba (400 Ci) . They never leaked again. One of my suppliers at my old shop offered the Right stuff in the cheese wiz can and I used it when I put my Cleveland together. The last shop I worked at had the Wurth and Winzer version of right stuff in the same type of cheese wiz can. These sealers are half way between the usual cheap sealers and Right stuff. I had to use them and they did work well.

Ron

 
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