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Thanks guys! When I get the drive shaft in and the hangers mounted today, I'll roll the center jacks out of the way and see about getting the underside shot.

Gonna be a little while before I get to fire it up - I still gotta run the electrics, plumb everything with the flexible line, pick up a few more things (like a radiator, battery, Duraspark box, etc.,), and get all that stuff taken care of. I thought about getting the basics in there to hear it run, but remembered that I also need to break in the cam as well... so it'll need to run for more than just a few minutes at a time - might as well just do it right and do it once.

Actually, I think I'm the 2500th post with this one. Woohoo! I guess I'll need to be on the look out for that clown with his poodles and balloons again. I found the soggy remnants of a 'Congratulations - 1000th post' sign when I mowed the lawn last night. Still feel bad about that. rofl

 
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OK - I got the exhaust in... for the most part. Still gotta adjust the tailpipes a little - the passenger side hangs a little lower than the driver side. But, I'll mess with it later. Fought with the U-joints but got 'em in. Then decided not to hang the drive shaft until I get the shifter mounted (next weekend).

I was going to stitch these together, but I'm wiped... it was ONLY 109 today, in the shop slightly less, but no A/C. The guys were giving me crap about laying down on the job while I was taking these pics... made my day.

Engine, tranny, and weird header angles - had to put 8 degrees of bend into each lead pipe to get it to match-up to the X-pipe inlets (then cut them to length):

252362_457333127610944_28584412_n.jpg


X-pipe and front edge of mufflers:

269310_457333177610939_1008943514_n.jpg


And finally, the tail pipes and fuel tank. Still gotta pull the rear axle, clean it, and rebuild it... but that'll wait for another day as well.

294958_457333194277604_1306272046_n.jpg


It's sad, but looking under my car, it looks almost brand new... until you get out from under it and notice, "Oh yeah... it's THAT car." rofl

Soon...

 
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Put this bad boy on the Cleveland.

Big difference in performance.

mike
Mike - that does look nice.



OK - I got the exhaust in...

It's sad, but looking under my car, it looks almost brand new... until you get out from under it and notice, "Oh yeah... it's THAT car." rofl
Eric, that makes for a sweet looking system.

The rest of the car will no doubt soon follow!

 
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Put this bad boy on the Cleveland.

Big difference in performance.

mike
Nice!! Specs?
The carb is a Street Avenger series 86770.

Aluminum, 770 cfm, vacuum secondaries, four

corner idle, glass float site windows and electric choke.

The old carb was a Holley 80670 and the car felt like it

wanted another 100. I know conventional wisdom says

even 670 is too big for the engine, but that has not been

the case. We are pulling 17 in vacuum at idle and when you

tap the gas, the car jumps off the line. May have something

to do with the cam that was put in this engine. This is the

rebuilt long block I bought from Don of OMS last October. We

measured valve lift at 0.58, then got the book about Clevelands

that has been mentioned in this forum. Wish we had that book

back when we installed the engine. We would have inspected the

engine more carefully because it looks like whoever did the rebuild

had racing in mind. This is not a stock rebuild :p

mike

 
Looks excellent Eric! Thanks for taking the pics! : )


I drove my car to a friends memorial service. Third motorhead friend to go in a years time... hope this doesn't become a regular occurrence. :(

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Put this bad boy on the Cleveland.

Big difference in performance.

mike
Nice!! Specs?
The carb is a Street Avenger series 86770.

Aluminum, 770 cfm, vacuum secondaries, four

corner idle, glass float site windows and electric choke.

The old carb was a Holley 80670 and the car felt like it

wanted another 100. I know conventional wisdom says

even 670 is too big for the engine, but that has not been

the case. We are pulling 17 in vacuum at idle and when you

tap the gas, the car jumps off the line. May have something

to do with the cam that was put in this engine. This is the

rebuilt long block I bought from Don of OMS last October. We

measured valve lift at 0.58, then got the book about Clevelands

that has been mentioned in this forum. Wish we had that book

back when we installed the engine. We would have inspected the

engine more carefully because it looks like whoever did the rebuild

had racing in mind. This is not a stock rebuild :p

mike
Sounds about right with the cam to me. Be sure to let us know how the top end works out.

 
OK - I got the exhaust in... for the most part. Still gotta adjust the tailpipes a little - the passenger side hangs a little lower than the driver side. But, I'll mess with it later. Fought with the U-joints but got 'em in. Then decided not to hang the drive shaft until I get the shifter mounted (next weekend).

I was going to stitch these together, but I'm wiped... it was ONLY 109 today, in the shop slightly less, but no A/C. The guys were giving me crap about laying down on the job while I was taking these pics... made my day.

Engine, tranny, and weird header angles - had to put 8 degrees of bend into each lead pipe to get it to match-up to the X-pipe inlets (then cut them to length):

252362_457333127610944_28584412_n.jpg


X-pipe and front edge of mufflers:

269310_457333177610939_1008943514_n.jpg


And finally, the tail pipes and fuel tank. Still gotta pull the rear axle, clean it, and rebuild it... but that'll wait for another day as well.

294958_457333194277604_1306272046_n.jpg


It's sad, but looking under my car, it looks almost brand new... until you get out from under it and notice, "Oh yeah... it's THAT car." rofl

Soon...
Eric, looks nice

Question, is that brake and fuel lines i see running on the fllor pans?

Don

 
Eric, looks niceQuestion, is that brake and fuel lines i see running on the fllor pans?

Don
Yes and no. The fuel line is running along the inside the of the rocker panel (just outside of the picture frame on the top), and the brake line is running pretty much down the middle of the floor pan on the driver side. And of course, the e-brake cable is hard to miss. The shiny thing toward the bottom of the 2nd picture is the passenger side subframe connector.

What'd I do wrong? :s (there are no wrong answers here...)


BTW - nice lookin' carb Mike. I'll bet that sucker's gonna be a beast when you get it all dialed in.

 
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Eric, looks niceQuestion, is that brake and fuel lines i see running on the fllor pans?

Don
Yes and no. The fuel line is running along the inside the of the rocker panel (just outside of the picture frame on the top), and the brake line is running pretty much down the middle of the floor pan on the driver side. And of course, the e-brake cable is hard to miss. The shiny thing toward the bottom of the 2nd picture is the passenger side subframe connector.

What'd I do wrong? :s (there are no wrong answers here...)


BTW - nice lookin' carb Mike. I'll bet that sucker's gonna be a beast when you get it all dialed in.
Brake line and fuel line VENT tubing should run in the tunnel for protection.

If you bottom the car out with the brake line there - it could be bad.

Also road debris can come up and hit the exposed line

Fuel line tucks in edge of rocker lip for protection.

 
Eric, looks niceQuestion, is that brake and fuel lines i see running on the fllor pans?

Don
Yes and no. The fuel line is running along the inside the of the rocker panel (just outside of the picture frame on the top), and the brake line is running pretty much down the middle of the floor pan on the driver side. And of course, the e-brake cable is hard to miss. The shiny thing toward the bottom of the 2nd picture is the passenger side subframe connector.

What'd I do wrong? :s (there are no wrong answers here...)


BTW - nice lookin' carb Mike. I'll bet that sucker's gonna be a beast when you get it all dialed in.
Brake line and fuel line VENT tubing should run in the tunnel for protection.

If you bottom the car out with the brake line there - it could be bad.

Also road debris can come up and hit the exposed line

Fuel line tucks in edge of rocker lip for protection.
Cool, thanks! Makes perfect sense as well. I should be able to relocate the brake line to the tunnel without any hassle whatsoever. I was planning on putting a differential breather on the end of the vent line and just mount it high in the back, since I don't have any kind of 'return' on the fuel system (pretty much nothing stock remains on my engine at this point).

 
OK I had a good weekend with the Mach 1. Saturday my buddy stops by to check out my wife's 2013 convertible. After taking him for a ride in the wife's car I showed him what I was doing to the Mach 1.So I was telling my buddy about building a rotisserie and the next thing I know we are at Home Depot getting 8 sheets of 3/4 plywood. We started by putting the car up on jack stands. My buddy Lee had some 4x6s to donate to the project and we bolted them to the car. Then we cut the plywood and screwed 4 sheet together. Then lag bolted them to the 4x6s. The front was real solid,but the rear being bolted threw the tail light panel had some flex so I screwed some 4x4s threw the end cap holes and that tighten the rear up. It's crazy how easy this is and how good it works. It takes 3 guys to roll it up on its side and chuck the plywood with some 4x6s. I ran a come along down from the rafters to help hold it for safety.:p The car rolled better the rear end in the car. After removing rear end the ass end wanted to slide across the garage when rolling up on its side. So I found it easier to roll it up with the come along. I had to cut the front roller to clear my garage door and add a 4x4 from the floor to the trans cross member so my wife would feel better parking her new car next to it.:dodgy:

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OK I had a good weekend with the Mach 1. Saturday my buddy stops by to check out my wife's 2013 convertible. After taking him for a ride in the wife's car I showed him what I was doing to the Mach 1.So I was telling my buddy about building a rotisserie and the next thing I know we are at Home Depot getting 8 sheets of 3/4 plywood. We started by putting the car up on jack stands. My buddy Lee had some 4x6s to donate to the project and we bolted them to the car. Then we cut the plywood and screwed 4 sheet together. Then lag bolted them to the 4x6s. The front was real solid,but the rear being bolted threw the tail light panel had some flex so I screwed some 4x4s threw the end cap holes and that tighten the rear up. It's crazy how easy this is and how good it works. It takes 3 guys to roll it up on its side and chuck the plywood with some 4x6s. I ran a come along down from the rafters to help hold it for safety.:p The car rolled better the rear end in the car. After removing rear end the ass end wanted to slide across the garage when rolling up on its side. So I found it easier to roll it up with the come along. I had to cut the front roller to clear my garage door and add a 4x4 from the floor to the trans cross member so my wife would feel better parking her new car next to it.:dodgy:

That's pretty cool. I've never seen or heard of this way of doing a rotisserie. looks like it is very successful.

 
That's awesome it's working so well. I remember Q (Scott) throwing the idea out there sometime last year - but seeing pics of it in action, along with the 'grafitti' on the front piece is just way cool.

Good luck with it!

 
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