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Well... last weekend I ran the power wires for the fusebox and the MSD. I moved the start relay to below the charcoal can to hide it a bit, gotta make a hole for the battery cable yet. . The engine harness is pulled through the firewall and is waiting for the engine to get dropped back in before cutting the wires to length. On to wiring up the column and interior switches. 

 
Took a drive down to a cruise in today, wanted to test my a/c out.  Cruise in starts later then I remember, have not been there in a few years.  So while I had the lot to myself thought I would take some new pictures.  A/C works, not ice cold but comfortable.  Will look into new condenser in the future.  Am VERY happy with how the car is running, Summit 750 carb working great and good gas mileage. 

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I loaded up the 73 Mach 1 and drove 122 miles to the Mustang Owner's Museum for a First Generation Mustang show. Nobody showed. Only 9 cars. Was a popular vote and a 1964 1/2 coupe owned by Harris that has Harris Mustang parts won. Beautiful perfect car.
Of course there was no gas in Charlotte I took 10 gallons with me extra but got a fill up in Shelby, N.C.. I get about 9 mpg pulling the 20' enclosed car trailer.
So I am thinking rent a diesel to go to Carlisle Penn in June.
If not I just will no show. My 308,000 mile 5.4 made another trip.

 
I sorted all the parts out for Sallys 71 mach in anticipation that it will come home soon from the body shop.

David,......Ive got a 2001 f350 crew 4x4 7.3  powerstroke. Has 120k miles on it. Ive been thinking of selling. Be a very good truck for Ya. I get notes on it all the time from buyers.

 
I see you still have 4 wheel drum brakes. Most people here in the U.S. do not realize that you need to grind the arch on the new shoes to fit the drum. If the drum is bell mouthed you need to turn within Max. spec. cast into the drum. I recently found one of the Ammco 8,000 shoe grinders and did a refurb on it. I am missing one piece that I will either make or find one.
When the asbestos scare hit in the 70's most shops took the grinders out. They do have a dust collection bag and I will also roll outside when I use it and wear a mask. I know Australia has cracked down on antique vehicles coming into the country with any asbestos parts such as brake shoes, clutches, gaskets and actually the undercoat and seam sealer Ford used had asbestos as a filler.
If you do not grind the shoes they have to wear in to fit the drum that is the reason drum brakes get a bad wrap. You start out with as little as 30% brake if not ground. You might check with some old shops to see if they still have one. This one will do from 6" dia. to 16" dia.. I think heavy trucks still do the grinding since they mostly have shoes. I also have and Ammco brake drum and rotor lathe. If you shop around the one I got was $350 and the grinder was $150. Some cleaning and few cans of paint looks like new.
David,
Thanks for the info.. The brake shoes that were in it were replaced some time ago and still have plenty of material on them. So I just serviced the brakes by replacing the wheel cylinders and flushed the brake lines and replaced the master cylinder due to contaminated brake fluid and a leak. All is working perfectly now and no need to machine the shoes. I will replace the front drums in the future, but for now, just want to get it on the road.

 
I picked up my engine hoist from a friend last night, I'm planning to drop the engine and trans back in this weekend. The re-wire is almost done... it's WAY overdue to get back on the road. I'm missing some prime top down therapy time. 

 
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I picked up my engine hoist from a friend last night, I'm planning to drop the engine and trans back in this weekend. The re-wire is almost done... it's WAY overdue to get back on the road. I'm missing some prime top down therapy time. 
Weekend is near so top-down-time too  :thumb:

Wish you success and all gets in in a heartbeat  :wrench:

 
Cleaned up around and under the car in preparation to finally weld in the subframe connectors. Pulled the old headers off and fitted a set of $99 eBay stainless Tri-Y headers to prove to myself that these fit fine with a manual trans 71-73 w/302. Everything bolted up as it should, and the fork is close to the collector. but completely manageable. 

Next step is to wash and degrease the underside of the car, wire wheel the floor pans and then grind back the POR-15 where I'll be welding. 

 
Last weekend was big... the car is back on all 4 wheels and the engine and trans is back in. The battery cables are routed and it's almost ready to start testing circuits. Under the car is all together. It's getting close to getting back on the road... 

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Bought a new drive belt for the 8 track player.  I'll install it and clean up the 8 track's internals this weekend.
Is this belt something that is easy to find? Not even sure if mine works (I need to find a tape and try). Working on getting under dash stuff back in. Steering gear installation as well is on the docket.

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Wacked together a transmission cradle from some scraps out of the dumpster at work. Only piece I "made" was to cut down a piece of 1" x .156" wall steel tube for the pivot post. Worked perfectly, took maybe ten minutes to remove the transmission rolling around on a creeper. 

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Is this belt something that is easy to find? Not even sure if mine works (I need to find a tape and try). Working on getting under dash stuff back in. Steering gear installation as well is on the docket.

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The belt takes a bit of research to find.  I picked up a Motorola 72-2 1972 Ford Radio/Tape Player Service Manual that covered my 1MZ4218 (stamped on the back cover of the radio/tape player) radio.  It lists the belt part number that I cross referenced to a FBM12.1 belt from Elliot Electronic Supply in Tucson AZ.  Their website lets you cross reference part numbers.  The belt was $5.50.

 I'm not sure the 1971 tape players use the same belt but there's a manual on fleabay that should list the part number:    https://www.ebay.com/itm/383718644086?hash=item595769d976:g:LjQAAOSwyKBfXlud 

 
Today i took the family for a 100 mile drive as a test drive for my Carlisle trip. All good! The wife didn't complain too much and my son napped all the way. Well, she only complained when i floored it but thats a "good" complain.

The one issue is that when i floor it i can smell axle gear. I saw some oil coming out of the bolt holding the rear brake splitter. I didn't know this guy went through all the way. I unscrewed it and put a lot of thread sealant to hopefully limit the amount of oil leaking out.

PS: listening to Stair Way to Heaven in my garage before closing up for the night.

 
Today i took the family for a 100 mile drive as a test drive for my Carlisle trip. All good! The wife didn't complain too much and my son napped all the way. Well, she only complained when i floored it but thats a "good" complain.

The one issue is that when i floor it i can smell axle gear. I saw some oil coming out of the bolt holding the rear brake splitter. I didn't know this guy went through all the way. I unscrewed it and put a lot of thread sealant to hopefully limit the amount of oil leaking out.

PS: listening to Stair Way to Heaven in my garage before closing up for the night.
I believe you are referring to the hollow bolt that mounts the rear brake hose to the axle. That bolt doubles as the axle vent and normally includes a vent hose going into the crossmember above.

 
Pretty much have the carb to E.F.I. swap done. It became more of a project than anticipated. Started with the Sniper 550 and an in-tank fuel pump but I discovered the GM style cap and coil on the aftermarket distributor was causing RF interference with the Holley computer. This resulted in massive fluctuations in the rpm signal. Fortunately, I was able to purchase a good used Holley dual spark distributor and a new coil. That took care of the problem. Haven't road tested it yet because the steering wheel is off as I wait for a new turn signal switch. One thing I discovered was the Holley unit would reboot when switching from crank back to run. Seems our ignition switches have a dead spot in them. Installed a delayed-off relay to take care of that.

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I believe you are referring to the hollow bolt that mounts the rear brake hose to the axle. That bolt doubles as the axle vent and normally includes a vent hose going into the crossmember above.
My rear axle has the breather and the bolt that holds the brake splitter in different spots.

 
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