Ms.Mach71351c
Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2013
- Messages
- 18
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- So. Cal.
- My Car
- 2013 V6 Convertible
1971 Mach 1 (I let him play with it :)
Nice job.....::thumb::
Another great and important feature of the Manley valves are that they have a "single groove" to hold the retainer on them. These are much better than the stock multi groove style that can fail @ high RPM. They sure look great.Today I picked up the heads from the machine shop. They replaced the Ford two piece valves with Manley stainless 1 piece valves, new springs to match my cam, hardened seals, grinding, resurfacing etc.
Eric Just seeing the fenders on is a great way to start the body work marathon. I know the deal well. I was so jacked when I bolted my passenger door on.Didn't have a lot of time today, but I DID manage to get the repop fenders and quarter panel I'd ordered from OMS last week to the shop. Of course, I couldn't resist pulling them out and test-fitting. So, I hung each one on by just the top bolts, and I'm very pleased with how they look. Sure, there's a LOT of adjustment to do, but it was a huge "visual" step and morale booster, IMHO. It's almost starting to look like an actual car again.
Sorry about the crappy cell phone pic:
Next week begins the body work marathon. I'm off from Christmas to the Monday following New Years' Day - so I'm hoping to take a big swing at getting it closer to the paint shop.
Very true. That's how my original fenders are.Lookin' good, Bro! ::thumb::
At least your parts car fenders didn't have a half gallon of Bondo underneath the paint you stripped off. I swear, every '71-'73 I've run across in-person so far has suffered from short-sighted drivers... and crunched fenders as a result. I guess most people don't realize that from the tip of their noses to the tip of the car's nose is something over 9 feet.
E..You know I made a vid on the Mustang Steve hinge kit..On the pillar to roof joint..Melt out the lead with a propane torch to really see what you have there..What looks like a crack may be a rust hole..Any which way WELD THE ENTIRE SEAM / JOINT ..Thats a known problem area on our cars & unless you weld the seam shut..No matter what you put on there it will crack again..Don't use all metal..Old technology..Use fibral http://www.amazon.com/U-POL-FIBRAL-Sandable-Repair-Filler/dp/B0006HCSDY like I did see about half way down the page for pics of my repair http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-what-did-you-do-to-your-car-today?pid=102602#pid102602Well, true to my word I removed the passenger quarter panel skin yesterday... or at least cut off the biggest part of it.
Today, I removed the last bits and repaired the factory metal underneath. I also stripped down the driver side rocker panel and discovered a few more holes than what I thought I originally had. No worries - gonna repair those tomorrow.
I did get a shot of the driver side A-pillar and where the factory lead had popped out when the previous owner hit something. Anybody have any ideas how to repair this, besides just building up the Bondo? The canyon is about 5/16" deep in places, and I need to clean it out for real before getting into it. I figured I'd just post up a pic in case anybody had any ideas.
Tomorrow, I strip down the passenger rocker panel, and repair both sides... and maybe... just maybe... get the quarter panel skin back on (correctly this time).
After that, I'll be installing the cool Mustang Steve hinge kit I received in the mail yesterday, and begin rehabbing the doors, then the hood, and finish stripping off the rest of the nasty old paint. I'm hoping to have that stuff done by next week when the Master Body Fastener kit shows up and I can start adjusting the fenders and start getting them and the rest of the front end sheet metal lined up.
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