What is an "EGR Cutout Solonoid" and where is it physically?

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tocruise

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Jun 24, 2024
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Location
Seattle, Washington
My Car
1973 Mach 1 H code
I've been doing some rewiring on my 73 mach 1, and I'm trying to hook up the red wire (with yellow dash) to, what my wiring diagram refers to as, an "EGR Cutout Solonoid". What exactly is that? What does it look like? and where is it? (I know it says on the diagram that it's at the rear of the engine, but that's not the best description when I have no idea what it looks like :ROFLMAO:). Pictures of it would be great if anyone has any.

I have an automatic 2v 351 Cleveland if that matters.

1738028138907.png

Thanks
 
Here is a photo of an EGR cut out solenoid valve. I think they are rare these days. This one fits a 73 351 Q code 4 speed car and mounts to the driver side valve cover most forward inboard bolt location. These valves were often removed and discarded by original owners/ mechanics.

IMG_3574[1].JPG
 
Here is a photo of an EGR cut out solenoid valve. I think they are rare these days. This one fits a 73 351 Q code 4 speed car and mounts to the driver side valve cover most forward inboard bolt location. These valves were often removed and discarded by original owners/ mechanics.

View attachment 97130

Perfect, thank you!
 
Hi!

There are some really good responsive posts & photos, and one really good diagram that I did not have (until now <g>). But, I felt i had even more on file that you may find useful. I pulled several snippets from different 1973 Mustang manuals I have and came up with a nice collection of EGR Related information and diagrams. It may be a little over the top, but there is nothing wrong with more information than is needed as long as it is well organized. The one diagram TOCruise provided in this thread is now included in my little library of Mustang related documents.
 

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Last edited:
Hi!

There are some really good responsive posts & photos, and one really good diagram that I did not have (until now <g>). But, I felt i had even more on file that you may find useful. I pulled several snippets from different 1973 Mustang manuals I have and came up with a nice collection of EGR Related information and diagrams. It may be a little over the top, but there is nothing wrong with more information than is needed as long as it is well organized. The one diagram TOCruise provided in this thread is now included in my little library of Mustang related documents.

Thanks Gilbert, your insight is great as usual.

I think I've got to the bottom of this now. I don't believe my car has the EGR solenoid.
 
Thanks Gilbert, your insight is great as usual.

I think I've got to the bottom of this now. I don't believe my car has the EGR solenoid.
As always, I am happy to help where I think I can add value.

On our 73 Mustang Convertible we have a 302 2v engine with C4 auto tranny. The 302 is equipped with an EGR Valve, which is fully function (and, yes, connected). We purchased this Mustang about 3 or 4 years ago in our local area (Pittsford, suburb of Rochester, NY). This is a True Survivor, asits 2nd owener's family put the car inside a barn and it sat there for over 45 years. The 2nd owner got it as a nearly new vehicle (prior owner bought it and within weels traded it in for a truck). The 3rd owner purchased it 45 years or so later when the family of the 2nd owner decided to sell the farm and retire. Lynda and I bought it for asking price on the spot, as we knew the chances of finding another True Survivor like this with just over 19,000 original miles would likely never happen.

As I began to drive it I noted it had a dumble or bog on light acceleration. A hesitation on acceleration is often an accelerator pump issue, but in our case the acceleratir valve was working properly. Another common cause is ignition time is retarded dfrom spec, or the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm is leaking or ruptured.. I found the ported vacuum was reaching the diaphragm, and the vacuum diaphragm was not leaking. Yet another cause of a bog is an EGR Valve that is opening too soon (or at all on some engines). I temporarily disconnected the vacuum signal hose from the EGR Valve and found there was sifference in the bog. So I plugged the EGR vacuum hose back into place. I then surmised the carburetor float level must be too low, so I popped the top off the carburetor and found it was about 1/4" too low. I adjusted the float level and went for a drive. Fixed...

Anyway, the reason I shared the above pararaphs is because I know a lot of fol disable and/or remove their older EGR systems, because they feel introducing exhaust gas into the intake manifold makes no sense. And at first bluch it sure does seem ro be an idea bestr left to have never been had. But, esentially exhaust gas is a quickly available inert gas. By introducing inert gas into the combustion chamber along with the regular air/fuel used to but, the combustion chamber temperature during the power stroke of the engine is reduced in comparison to an engine with no EGR recycling feature. The reduced temperature comes along with a reduction of pressure in the combustion cycle. This reduced the NOx level in the exhaust emission of the engine with the EGR Valve device.

In my years working on a lot of different Ford engines equipped with an EGR sytem, most engine ran just fine with them left in their functioning operation. There were a few engines that the EGR Valve would cause a bog on acceleration or sluggish low end performance. But that was more the exception, and often I could overcome that problem by adding 2 degree of ignition timing advance (before computer controlled engines) I have not seen where an EGR system had caused a significant problem, not do damage to an engine. Also, in some engines where the EGR was not functional the engine would produce pinging on light to medium, acceleration - something I tried to eliminate any time I could do so legally. So, if your engine is running well with the EGR system functioning I recommend leaving well enough alone. My two cents...
 
@mrgmhale Great information, and great find on that car.

I haven't been able to do a conclusive long running test to see if it poses any issues with the way it's currently setup, so that may be something I need to revisit once I have the car in better operation to see if an EGR solenoid is something I want to add back. I presume if the previous owner took it off, and operated it like that, he probably never had any issues with it, so I'll leave it as is for now.

Something completely unrelated but I wanted to double check, am I right in thinking that the brake pedal will feel soft on a car that has been sat for a long time? I haven't had this old girl running in probably 4 months when I was first testing it out after just buying it. The brake pedal has barely any travel (maybe 2 inches) is incredibly soft, and then hits what feels like a wall. It could very well be that the rear brakes are seized, but I don't know what the full range of motion on the brake pedal is supposed to be for this car. I only noticed this recently when trying to bleed the brakes, and realized that pressing the pedal literally nothing happens, and when I remove the brake nipple, nothing comes out at all even though the master is full. Am I correct in thinking the brake pressue system only works if the engine is pressurized in a vacuum? Should the pedal move at all with the car off? Is it likely something is just seized?
 
Great to see an original mounted. It appears to have the special original mounting stud/valve cover bolt which I think is also a rarity. Mounts in same location as Q code with AC, except with AC the valve and vacuum hoses point rearward.
 
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