What is the right black out hood paint?

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So here's another idea. Apparently the lime car was identical to the James Bond car. No one talks about it, but the Bond car had to be a "C" code non ram air car. The Bond car is iconic and looks good without the hood patch or stripes. I did add the hood locks, and I can't undo that, but I think they only add to the looks of the car. Maybe I should reinstall the side moldings and ditch the hood patch and stripes. That sure would make my life a lot easier. What do you and the other members think?
Interesting, For some reason, and there was an entire thread on the James Bond Mustang, I never realized it was a 429 car. That or I just never paid that much attention to it. Time to dig up the old thread I guess and check (my) facts.
Personally I think ALL Mach 1's ought to have had hood blackout and stripe kits along with front and rear spoilers and Magnum 500 wheels (preferably15") . It just makes them distinctive and "mean looking". I get that comment often when at shows.
My car was an absolute "plain Jane" in Light Pewter with basic black interior. No hood blackout and stipes. but it did have the bright trim along the bottom. A PO must have thought the same way, because he had the car repainted and added said blackout and add-ons, but kept the bright trim pieces. That's the way I kept it also
On your "lime green" car, why not just tape the bright trim on and see how it looks. If you don't like it, dump them and get the paint out. As Tim also mentions, the SEM HotRod Black may have a high edge and prone to chipping if the HRC40 clear coat is applied over it. My painter thought the same way and why I still have the kit on the shelf. The blackout has been on now for 8 years and still looks good.
So Kevin you have a choice to make.
 
Interesting, For some reason, and there was an entire thread on the James Bond Mustang, I never realized it was a 429 car. That or I just never paid that much attention to it. Time to dig up the old thread I guess and check (my) facts.
Personally I think ALL Mach 1's ought to have had hood blackout and stripe kits along with front and rear spoilers and Magnum 500 wheels (preferably15") . It just makes them distinctive and "mean looking". I get that comment often when at shows.
My car was an absolute "plain Jane" in Light Pewter with basic black interior. No hood blackout and stipes. but it did have the bright trim along the bottom. A PO must have thought the same way, because he had the car repainted and added said blackout and add-ons, but kept the bright trim pieces. That's the way I kept it also
On your "lime green" car, why not just tape the bright trim on and see how it looks. If you don't like it, dump them and get the paint out. As Tim also mentions, the SEM HotRod Black may have a high edge and prone to chipping if the HRC40 clear coat is applied over it. My painter thought the same way and why I still have the kit on the shelf. The blackout has been on now for 8 years and still looks good.
So Kevin you have a choice to make.
Maybe I'm wrong on the Bond car. I know there were several used in the filming and they wanted them to look the same. I thought the hero car was a 429. Thanks for the advice, Geoff.
 
Kevin,

I don't know about the SEM Hot Rod Black, it is not a product available in our country so I had to make something similar by myself.

With the paint color of your choice, grabber lime, I would stay with the black Mach 1 hood treatment. It has just the looks. A naked grabber lime would not look as good as with black stripes and hood treatment.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Maybe I'm wrong on the Bond car. I know there were several used in the filming and they wanted them to look the same. I thought the hero car was a 429. Thanks for the advice, Geoff.
Thanks Kevin.
I'm not sure that was "advice", but more a suggestion for the way I like to see Mach 1's. I will say one thing, if you do decide to go with the hood blackout, make sure the shape is correct, but not necessarily Factory correct. The Graphics Express template is a bit narrower width wise and I actually like those proportions better, more body color showing on the hood, and the front radii is pretty much spot on. My painter chose not to use the template as is, fearing there might be some paint bleed at the template joints (it's not one piece), so he used it as a guide and taped the outline with 3M striping tape. Time consuming but the result was worth it............. other than the fact I screwed up, telling him 2" from the front, forgetting the 1" trim was not yet on. DON"T make that same mistake!! There are many post/threads on here regarding hood shape with dimensions and comments.

https://7173mustangs.com/topic/3290...-black-out/?do=findComment&comment=338133
On the side stripes, I feel the very top line of the stripe must be straight from the front wheel arch back tot he tail side marker. To my eye, if it's not straight, then it throws the whole effect off. I'm that anal, I set my car level (spirit level set in the door sill) then use a laser to set the top edge all the way. If I remember, I used the dimensions on the 429 mega site. I do remember that the stripe they were using, was a tad wider than the Graphics Express one, so adjustments were necessary. Pic below.

I've not yet looked further into the Bond car info, but now I'm curious too.
Good luck, you will make the right choice, it will look awesome when done. I'm jealous! Want to trade?
 

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Mine seems to be black with infusion of yellow...is it wrong to like it????
 

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Kevin,

I don't know about the SEM Hot Rod Black, it is not a product available in our country so I had to make something similar by myself.

With the paint color of your choice, grabber lime, I would stay with the black Mach 1 hood treatment. It has just the looks. A naked grabber lime would not look as good as with black stripes and hood treatment.

Just my 2 cents.
PPG owns SEM, so if you can get PPG, look for PPG Hot Rod Black, that is what I used.
 
As we've well and truly got off track and hijacked the original post and ended up talking yet again about the Bond car, Check this link out.
http://www.ponysite.de/pony/alley.htmThe " Alley car" as it was known, was an M code 351C. There was also mention of at least 4 others (on other sites) and they were F code 302's NO mention of a 429 anywhere that I found.
And now, back to the program!
 
Kevin,

I don't know about the SEM Hot Rod Black, it is not a product available in our country so I had to make something similar by myself.

With the paint color of your choice, grabber lime, I would stay with the black Mach 1 hood treatment. It has just the looks. A naked grabber lime would not look as good as with black stripes and hood treatment.

Just my 2 cents.
Thanks Tim!
 
As we've well and truly got off track and hijacked the original post and ended up talking yet again about the Bond car, Check this link out.
http://www.ponysite.de/pony/alley.htmThe " Alley car" as it was known, was an M code 351C. There was also mention of at least 4 others (on other sites) and they were F code 302's NO mention of a 429 anywhere that I found.
And now, back to the program!
Thanks for researching that Geoff. Good to know!
 
Thanks Kevin.
I'm not sure that was "advice", but more a suggestion for the way I like to see Mach 1's. I will say one thing, if you do decide to go with the hood blackout, make sure the shape is correct, but not necessarily Factory correct. The Graphics Express template is a bit narrower width wise and I actually like those proportions better, more body color showing on the hood, and the front radii is pretty much spot on. My painter chose not to use the template as is, fearing there might be some paint bleed at the template joints (it's not one piece), so he used it as a guide and taped the outline with 3M striping tape. Time consuming but the result was worth it............. other than the fact I screwed up, telling him 2" from the front, forgetting the 1" trim was not yet on. DON"T make that same mistake!! There are many post/threads on here regarding hood shape with dimensions and comments.

https://7173mustangs.com/topic/3290...-black-out/?do=findComment&comment=338133
On the side stripes, I feel the very top line of the stripe must be straight from the front wheel arch back tot he tail side marker. To my eye, if it's not straight, then it throws the whole effect off. I'm that anal, I set my car level (spirit level set in the door sill) then use a laser to set the top edge all the way. If I remember, I used the dimensions on the 429 mega site. I do remember that the stripe they were using, was a tad wider than the Graphics Express one, so adjustments were necessary. Pic below.

I've not yet looked further into the Bond car info, but now I'm curious too.
Good luck, you will make the right choice, it will look awesome when done. I'm jealous! Want to trade?
Thanks for the info Geoff. Regarding "I set my car level (spirit level set in the door sill) then use a laser to set the top edge all the way.", are there any pictures you have showing this process, or can you please explain further?
 
Thanks for the info Geoff. Regarding "I set my car level (spirit level set in the door sill) then use a laser to set the top edge all the way.", are there any pictures you have showing this process, or can you please explain further?
Kevin,
I didn't take any pictures of that process unfortunately. Many times, I wish I'd taken pictures as I did stuff and this might be one of them.
With the Graphics Express side stripe kit I found that the front fender piece (over the side light) sits at a slight angle when placed level with the side light metal piece if that makes sense. That is why I only concentrated from the back (door side) of the fender arch, through the door and back into the quarter panel.
I'll see if I can either re-take some pics or crop the ones I have to show better what I mean.
For the set up. I literally use a jack, in my case at the back of the car, to level the car. I presumed the door sill ought to be pretty close to parallel to the top of the stripe. I then set up my cheapo laser level at the mid point of the car and back probably 8 feet or so. With small pieces of masking tape set where I wanted the top of the stripe to start and finish, I then pin pointed spots along the length with tape (red dots) This is what was used to set the stripe segments, following the instructions from G/E. When they say "Use DAWN Original" only, they mean it.
EDIT: I found trying to set the top straight using masking tape or a string line, was hard due to the profile over the rear wheel arch. I think this is why we see so many where the rear portion is tilted upward.
You do NOT have to use a laser, so don't go buy one especially for this. I had one, so I used it.
Also, As I retained the lower bright trim pieces, I had to trim the lower portion of the front stripe to suit.
 

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According to the 1971 Ford color chart, it was PPG 9381 and is no longer available. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1971-Ford.html
It seems to be the same as the 1970 Boss 302 paint. If it is, it has a slight texture to it as well as being a low gloss black.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=22817.0I honestly don't remember what I used for paint. I know we adjusted the pressure and volume on the gun to get a slight texture. Good luck with finishing the car up, it is a very good car to have. Chuck
 
Hi all,
The hood paint blackout color/sheen was an important decision I had to make a few weeks ago while my 71 was being completely repainted. After much time spent looking at black Mustang hood photos (or in person at car shows), reading this forum, and consulting with my painter and a few other of my friends with classic cars, it was decided to go with semi-gloss black for the hood. I'm quite happy with the results and have attached a couple of photos.

By the way I found some good advice in this forum regarding the hood template measurement for the blackout.
 

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Hi all,
The hood paint blackout color/sheen was an important decision I had to make a few weeks ago while my 71 was being completely repainted. After much time spent looking at black Mustang hood photos (or in person at car shows), reading this forum, and consulting with my painter and a few other of my friends with classic cars, it was decided to go with semi-gloss black for the hood. I'm quite happy with the results and have attached a couple of photos.

By the way I found some good advice in this forum regarding the hood template measurement for the blackout.

Well done 👍🏻

It looks very nice and fits the car perfect!
 
Well done 👍🏻

It looks very nice and fits the car perfect!
Thanks.
I just know how vital it was to get the hood blackout sheen to satisfy my personal likes, as the hood is such a visually important part of the car.

But everyone has different tastes, and I've also seen flat black and gloss hood blackouts that looked really nice.
 
Kevin,
I didn't take any pictures of that process unfortunately. Many times, I wish I'd taken pictures as I did stuff and this might be one of them.
With the Graphics Express side stripe kit I found that the front fender piece (over the side light) sits at a slight angle when placed level with the side light metal piece if that makes sense. That is why I only concentrated from the back (door side) of the fender arch, through the door and back into the quarter panel.
I'll see if I can either re-take some pics or crop the ones I have to show better what I mean.
For the set up. I literally use a jack, in my case at the back of the car, to level the car. I presumed the door sill ought to be pretty close to parallel to the top of the stripe. I then set up my cheapo laser level at the mid point of the car and back probably 8 feet or so. With small pieces of masking tape set where I wanted the top of the stripe to start and finish, I then pin pointed spots along the length with tape (red dots) This is what was used to set the stripe segments, following the instructions from G/E. When they say "Use DAWN Original" only, they mean it.
EDIT: I found trying to set the top straight using masking tape or a string line, was hard due to the profile over the rear wheel arch. I think this is why we see so many where the rear portion is tilted upward.
You do NOT have to use a laser, so don't go buy one especially for this. I had one, so I used it.
Also, As I retained the lower bright trim pieces, I had to trim the lower portion of the front stripe to suit.
Thanks! The stripes look perfect!
 
According to the 1971 Ford color chart, it was PPG 9381 and is no longer available. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1971-Ford.html
It seems to be the same as the 1970 Boss 302 paint. If it is, it has a slight texture to it as well as being a low gloss black.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=22817.0I honestly don't remember what I used for paint. I know we adjusted the pressure and volume on the gun to get a slight texture. Good luck with finishing the car up, it is a very good car to have. Chuck
Thanks Chuck!
 
Hi all,
The hood paint blackout color/sheen was an important decision I had to make a few weeks ago while my 71 was being completely repainted. After much time spent looking at black Mustang hood photos (or in person at car shows), reading this forum, and consulting with my painter and a few other of my friends with classic cars, it was decided to go with semi-gloss black for the hood. I'm quite happy with the results and have attached a couple of photos.

By the way I found some good advice in this forum regarding the hood template measurement for the blackout.
Nice! What brand paint/paint code did you use?
 
I am a bit late in this thread, sorry. Our 73 Mach 1 was painted in PPG Sunset Orange over a base White to get its candy effect. The blackout for the hood, and spoilers, we shot in PPG Hot Rod Black, Matte. It provides a smooth surface on both the black and the orange, but the matte on the black does help diffuse any light otherwise reflected. It is not as diffused as with a flat black paint, but I wanted a smooth surface with moderate diffusion. Here is a link to a walkaround video of the Mach 1:



I think it turned out really nicely.
 

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