What is this?

[Renxus]

This was bolted to the intake manifold and 12V positive was routed via this to the electric choke by the previous owner. I guess it should read the temp and play with the choke? An interesting piece. Does anyone have any specs on this thing? What it does do exactly and is it useful to keep using?

 

[Sheriff41]

Ballast resistor?

 

[Bill Kanode]

I think you are on the right track with it controlling the electric choke after the engine is warmed. Although I will not be driving my 1971 351C mustang in cold weather I am changing from a 2V carb to a 4V Holley and aluminum Edelbrock manifold but using the electric choke for easier starting.

 

[detritusmaximus]

Looks like a ballast resistor with a thermal sensor/switch (much like the ones on my dryer and refridgerator). Maybe it cuts current once the engine is warm?

 

[Spike Morelli]

Not a Ford part, to be sure,.........toss it. Likely added by someone over complicating a circuit not functioning correctly, so instead of fixing it, they added on to it. Those people scare me.

 

[Hemikiller]

Holley has a similar product, the 45-267 choke delay kit. The idea is to reduce the current when the engine is cold, then gradually apply full current as the engine warms up. Ford used similar idea with the electric assist chokes on the '73s that only kick in at 60° ambient temp.

 

[Bill Kanode]

Holley has a similar product, the 45-267 choke delay kit. The idea is to reduce the current when the engine is cold, then gradually apply full current as the engine warms up. Ford used similar idea with the electric assist chokes on the '73s that only kick in at 60° ambient temp.

Hi Hemi Killer as I will use that part number also on my 1971 car. You must be old like me (76) to remember all of these things. Did you find a supplier for the cloth inserts of my car? I can try to send the picture again of my seats. Thx Bill

 

[mrgmhale]

Just a Heads up, the 73 Mustang electric choke for the oem carburetor was fed by Circuit #4 (White with Black Stripe), which is fed by the alternator stator terminal. The electrical output from the stator terminal on the alternator provides current that is not like any other circuits' current in the vehicle. The stator output is AC, not DC current, and it is half the voltage of the alternator output that is sent to the battery.

If your Mustang is a 73, although the oem choke heater circuit will "connect" to the aftermarket electric choke, the aftermarket carburetors with electric choke requires 12 volts of voltage to operate as designed. Using the stator circuit may eventually open the choke, but it is best to bring it full better voltage.

For 1973 there are a few ways to get 12 volts of switched power pretty easily. And I have used both for various projects in the pastmcouple of years.I prefer to use the current from the Throttle Position Solenoid, or the Red wire feeding the windshield wiper motor. Once a great while I have used a relay, where the trigger voltage (which causes the relay to close the load related circuit) cab come from several places. Using a relay for the electric chike =may be a little over the top, but such a design would work if you find it viable for your situation.

Of course, I have a video that shows how to use switched 12 volts to power an aftermarket carburetor electric chok. The prior owner of our 73 Mach 1 had its electric choke wired incorrectly, where the Starter Relay's "I" (Ignition) terminal sent voltage that was too low to the electric choke cap. No wonder the engine ran so rich when cold, and fuel fouled the spark plugs! The video shows how I required the current feeding the electric choke. This may prove to be useful to you. The link for the video Lynda and I put together is at the following web site:

https://youtu.be/WDcskIPfLcE