mweeps
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2012
- Messages
- 1,671
- Reaction score
- 6
- Location
- Charleston, WV
- My Car
- 07 Mustang GT
First car 351 H Code 73 Mach 1 totalled in college
Money and time which is keeping me away from here lately.
You can read it all here: http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5653682#post5653682Cuda.... you just need to check the oil.
Wow - bummer, Man. FWIW, I love DodgeTalk myself - that place has been almost as informative for my Ram as this place has been for the Mustang (almost... they still haven't been able to come up with a solution for my warmish idle/misfire issues).You can read it all here: http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5653682#post5653682Cuda.... you just need to check the oil.
-Kurt
Dodge Talk is good when you have the good techs interested in your thread; unfortunately, the Ram Van subforum seems to be a breeding place for fools willing to give advice without knowledge - or without reading.Wow - bummer, Man. FWIW, I love DodgeTalk myself - that place has been almost as informative for my Ram as this place has been for the Mustang (almost... they still haven't been able to come up with a solution for my warmish idle/misfire issues).
Good luck with it, Brutha! My '97's 5.2 Magnum has 138K on it right now with none of the problems you've described (so far, anyway... finds some wood to knock on).
Kurt, as I said before, I had a GM motor that looked almost exactly like your Dodge. I pulled the motor. I did not hot tank, but with the engine out and the oil pan off you can scrap, clean, and pour a lot of chemicals inside and out the bottom. The other big thing I did was pull the heads and cleaned the heads seperate. I literally removed the valves, cleaned the heads in a solvent tank, and re-assembled with new valve seals. I did not do any valve work or grinding (I probably got lucky).Given the results I'm getting now, I'm quite confident that no major damage was done - and whatever minor damage that may be there shouldn't rear its head for a long time. The trick now is to see whether I can scrape out the remaining crud - or whether it just makes more sense to pull the engine and hot-tank the block.
-Kurt
I know it - and when I find a moment to pull the engine, I should be quite fine getting away with a cleanup, new seals, new rings, new roller lifters (which - according to the best Mopar tech I know - are prone to gumming and seizing if run without an oil change for an extended period of time), and new crank and rod bearings.Kurt, as I said before, I had a GM motor that looked almost exactly like your Dodge. I pulled the motor. I did not hot tank, but with the engine out and the oil pan off you can scrap, clean, and pour a lot of chemicals inside and out the bottom. The other big thing I did was pull the heads and cleaned the heads seperate. I literally removed the valves, cleaned the heads in a solvent tank, and re-assembled with new valve seals. I did not do any valve work or grinding (I probably got lucky).I think in general, as long as the motor is not seriously metal to metal or broken, these things will keep going! It is not a high performance monster, so a good cleaning usually good enough. I have read and heard horror stories of how you have to keep the motor surgical clean as any dirt will ruin the motor... yada, yada. But when you look under the intake and see what you saw, don't you wonder how it kept running? I mean really, why didn't this self-implode a long time ago? I think the run of the mill engines are engineered to run in even the most abused situations. Hell, I have seen guys running around town fogging the local bug population with the oil burning smoke, clackity rockers, and bungee strapped bumpers for years!
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