Which aluminum radiator is best?

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flstf09

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Location
Missouri
My Car
72 Mach 1 429 CJ
Been looking at aluminum radiators.Everyone says there's is the best.Looking for direct fit for 72 with a 429.

 
I'm running this one and I like it and think it is a well made part. That being said, the bottom outlet is angled a bit different than stock and it required a different lower hose as it was also a larger diameter. I found the hose could be bought over the counter and made to fit easily for my car by just cutting about an inch off both ends of a hose. If you go this route let me know and I'll get you the part number when I get home

http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details4.php?PartID=179&year=73&make=Ford&model=Mustang&select_Main_Group=1973&select_Sub_Group=Ford&select_Sub_Group_model=Mustang&select_Sub_Group_Engine=31%20x%2018.63&select_Sub_Group_Transmission=N/A&key_id=8-00087

a straight outlet is available, but it is still the larger 1.75

http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details7.php?PartID=516&year=All&make=Ford,%20Dodge&model=Racer&select_Main_Group=400-600&select_Sub_Group=TR&select_Sub_Group_model=BL&select_Sub_Group_Engine=Manual&select_Sub_Group_HorsePower=31x19x3&key_id=1-56272-XS

both of the above are for higher output engines (over 400HP)

in a 400 and under version you might consider this as it is about 60% of the price

http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details7.php?PartID=177&year=All&make=Ford,%20Dodge&model=Racer&select_Main_Group=0-400&select_Sub_Group=TR&select_Sub_Group_model=BL&select_Sub_Group_Engine=Manual&select_Sub_Group_HorsePower=31x19x3&key_id=1-26272-X

other than finding a lower radiator hose to work with the larger lower outlet I have found these to be as easy a swap as is out there.

The size of our radiator is common to many fords and all major radiator builders should have a universal that is close enough to drop in. Features to look for are the construction method, the tube size and fin count.

Good luck

 
I'm running a Summit Racing "direct fit" rad which appears to be manufactured by Northern. It's so good that it literally overcools in 110*F ambient temperature here in AZ. Also, it doesn't break the bank... it is, after all, a US made aluminum rad.

 
I used to have a Summit one and it started leaking on me after a year.

Of course it could not be repaired by our local radiator shop and shipping it back to the U. S. Was not an option so I tossed it and had my original one recored. :(

Not saying the Summit radiator is bad but only sharing my experience.

 
I used to have a Summit one and it started leaking on me after a year.

Of course it could not be repaired by our local radiator shop and shipping it back to the U. S. Was not an option so I tossed it and had my original one recored. :(

Not saying the Summit radiator is bad but only sharing my experience.
If it started leaking after a year you probably had galvanic corrosion and high voltage in your coolant. It's a common problem that a lot of folks don't double check prior to installing an aluminum radiator. Also, use Zerex G05 coolant because it is formulated specifically for modern aluminum radiators.

 
Griffin makes a damn good one i think, i don't own one, but i helped put one in a old 73 firebird. Worked like a champ. " still is over 6 years later"

 
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Nope, I did use the specific coolant for aluminum radiators but it corroded anyway. Radiator shop said it was poor weld that gave in.

 
I went with Champion in my 72. Was drop in install. Fit the mounts, shroud, and stock hoses. Check out the link:

http://www.championradiators.com/ford-mustang-v8-radiator-71-73
+1. Works well in my 71

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It looks like the Chinese made Champion rads are better quality than the American made Northern (Summit Racing), so go for it.

Personally, I've not had any problem with my Northern and let's all remember, I do live in one of the hottest climates on earth.

 
Not trying to deter you from getting a good-quality aluminum radiator, but I would just like to say that the stock cooling system, including radiator is plenty sufficient to keep the engine cool.

My car has the stock set-up and it never heats up too much.

Many people don't really understand all the details of what makes a cooling system most efficiecient. They tend to focus on over-sizing the radiator and removing the thermostat to try and reduce overall temp. Both of these methods are wrong and will not solve the problem.

A couple of simple concepts to ponder:

1) You DO NOT want your coolant to be cold or as cool as you can possibly make it under all conditions. Youe coolant is the medium of transfer that takes heat from the engine and moves it to the outside air. If you don't limit its ability to heat up, it cannot then move that heat to the ambient air. Too-cool coolant in a warmed-up engine means the engine is retaining more heat than neccesary. Thermostats allow the coolant to reach its maximunm safe temperature, allowing the maximum amount of heat to be transferred to the ambient air. A missing thermostat lowers the coolant's ability to absorb and hold heat...leaving it in the engine, where you don't want it. That is why modern vehicles run high-temp thermostats (196 usually)...it makes the system more efficient. It seems a little counter-intuitive to many people and confuses many.

2) the relation of the fan size (diameter) to the fan-shroud opening, as well as the placement of the fan blades precisely within the fan-shroud opening is a critical detail to get right. This is one blunder many make and never realize. And of course, a missing fan shroud will dramitically lessen the cooling effects of the radiator.

 
My understanding is while the aluminum looks cool brass does a better job of transmitting heat

 
.

champion rads are chinese ALL chinese made rads hold at least 25% less water than us made rads so you need to allow for that when choosing rad size.

coolcraft.com makes original appearing/shape rads they are mfg'd by us radiator in calif.

if you are running hot, also install a water by pass block off plate and a 180 standard non cleveland thermostat.

hsve your ignition timing curve set for your engine.

make sure the jetting is not lean.

 
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if you are running hot, also install a water by pass block off plate and a 180 standard non cleveland thermostat.
I would contend that this is bad advice. Would you care to explain why you think this is beneficial?
Been doing it for years so it has been proven to be effective . . the pantera guys have also been doing it . . it has never proven to create a prob and they wouldn't have made the part if it was ineffective but a bigger $500.00 rad and more air flow will help most cooling problems.



I went with Champion in my 72. Was drop in install. Fit the mounts, shroud, and stock hoses. Check out the link:

http://www.championradiators.com/ford-mustang-v8-radiator-71-73
+1. Works well in my 71

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It looks like the Chinese made Champion rads are better quality than the American made Northern (Summit Racing), so go for it.

Personally, I've not had any problem with my Northern and let's all remember, I do live in one of the hottest climates on earth.
irregardless of quality, champions tubes are 25% narrower than the tubes in a us made rad and nothing in the world will change that . . just because one particular rad works in one car does not mean it will fix a problem in another car . . you might have a stock engine that is .030" over, he might have a 500 hp engine that is .060 over with 4.11 gears . . his block might also have a core shift or the cylinder walls might be thin from it rusting away inside over the last 43 years.

.

 
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