Why is my drivers side brake hose too short?

[Steve McMahan]

I purchased the l/r brake hose set from Autokrafters, D1ZZ-207A/B, here are the pics of the install:


Will not reach bottom of new caliper. Anyone else have this problem (tool used for staging photo)?

 

[Steve McMahan]

Ok, same problem with the passenger side. Ok, crazy idea: is there a chance when I replaced the front suspension (ball joints, lower control arm, new strut bushings) that I’ve reinstalled it and pushed the lower control arm so far to the rear, that the hoses will not reach? If that’s possible, does someone have a measurement I can make to determine if the LCA is in the right or close enough location?

 

[71ProjectJunk]

That hose seems to be the correct hose. It does reach the caliper, correct?

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Are the shocks on? The suspension is all unloaded and that is why it seems to not reach. When the shocks are on they limit the suspension travel. If the suspension was loaded they should reach easily.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I suspect you’re right, but I don’t have those tools to limit the travel, and the upper shock mount looks so deformed, limiting the travel, that I removed the top rubber bushings on both sides for now.

What I did do, in case this turns out to be wrong, is look up the wheelbase of the 73 and I adjusted both struts to make it close. They were more than an 1” out of spec (109” Is spec).

So, I’ll install the hose to the caliper and not attach the other end to the frame until I have the vehicle on its wheels. Thanks for the help.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

So the wheelbase was like at 110" and you moved the strut rods bushings to get it closer to 109"?

 

[Steve McMahan]

No, it was 107.75”, so I used the strut rod to pull it forward to get like 108.875”. That one inch helped, but still not enough.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Moving the strut rod positioning affects your caster. If you move the lower arm back towards the doors you will be putting a lot of negative caster on the car, which is exactly what you do not want. You always want the suspension to have positive caster. Obviously we have no idea where we are at when it comes to alignment specs, but when you disassembled the suspension your strut rods should have been close to where they needed to be. If, when you put them on you moved the bolts one inch to move the lower arms one inch back, you probably put a ton of negative caster on the car. Either way the alignment shop will figure it out when you get there.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Oh, okay. So you moved the lower A-Arm forward then, toward the front of the vehicle? I thought that since the brake lines seemed to be short, that you had moved the A-Arms towards the back of the vehicle.

 

[tony-muscle]

My stock brakes are long gone but I found this old picture showing the hose slack with the suspension fully down before I upgraded my system. Maybe it helps.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Yea, suspension fully down, the hose will not reach the bottom of the caliper without pulling it. I have no idea what my caster setting is, and today, don’t care. Unfortunately, when I purchased my car from a salvage yard, lots of things were undone, and I had no starting point to measure, like both strut rods were in the backseat. But, one day at a time. Just trying to get to the point I can try and start the car; hope no leaks in the 20 places it could.

 

[midlife]

Crazy idea here...but listen anyway. Any chance you have the calipers reversed left to right? Don't the calipers fit on the rear portion of the disk brakes instead of the forward portion? Hey! What do I know...

 

[timachone]

+1 Midlife

That was the first thing that came into my mind reading this...

 

[71ProjectJunk]

My stock brakes are long gone but I found this old picture showing the hose slack with the suspension fully down before I upgraded my system. Maybe it helps.

View attachment 66887

Were the shocks still mounted? That will make a big difference.

 

[Moderator73]

Looks like everything is right to me. Since you’re not using the tool to keep your upper arm from fully extending your geometry looks different. It doesn’t have to be the tool to hold your upper arm. A short 2x4 can work. I found this first picture that shows how much higher your rotor/caliber will be once you get your coil spring compressed. The second picture I just took again showing the hose length with curb weight on your axles. I’m thinking you are okay. Hope this helps some. I know how you feel after you’ve put all the work & love into your upgrade when you see something like this you start questioning everything including yourself. What you’ve done looks great to me.
Bob

 

[tony-muscle]

Were the shocks still mounted? That will make a big difference.

Shocks were mounted

 

[kcmash]

My bet is they sent you hoses for front drum brakes versus disk. Did you convert the car from front drum to front disk brakes?
Kcmash

 

[Steve McMahan]

No conversion. The top mount of the shock in not attached. The UCA is resting on the frame. When I went back to Autokrafters, the hoses I have say there for front discs. I suspect it’s all related to the overextension of the suspension. I tried to insert a block on one side, but it was a no-go. All 4 wheels are on jackstands. I’m not worried yet. And I’m back in CA, so it will be mid Oct before if I have a problem. So, I’m not gonna worry.