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I don't think Dakota Digital has the gauges with out the clock, maybe they can do the kit with out the clock if you ask them. New Vintage USA are making the speedometers with out the clock, they have some really nice designs too and they can make the gauges exactly like you want them with a lot of options build in to them.. :)

http://www.newvintageusa.com/71-73mustang.html

 
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image.jpgYup. They have this one in blue....


image.jpg....and this one here. They are showing about $750

 
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They are a nice set, and good to see Dakota making sweep needle gauges now for our 123's, but not all that good as a concept for those of us that have functioning center gauges and a center floor console clock as well already.

It appears that Dakota doesn't cater right now for those who have the above gauges and clock installed and working. I remember they offered a center gauge option with their original digital read out models that have been available for some time. I would be very, very happy to see them as an alternative, offer a model, all in needle sweep style, that simply has the tach on the left, gas in the center, speedo on the right, and three separate center gauges to finish off. They could also offer an upgrade replacement for the floor console clock, or just leave the old design in. (better to offer an upgrade) We will have to wait and see i guess. I may give them a call sometime and a have a friendly word in someone's ear.

Greg.:)

 
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image.jpgI definitely agree with the fact that a simple retrofit won't work because of the redundant gauges in the center of the Dakota cluster and 3 in the center dash. However I already had intensions of having the three small gauges above the stereo becoming two toggles and one push button start. Always loved the idea of having a procedure to go through before the engine could be fired-with the push of a button to boot. Lol.
 
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They are a nice set, and good to see Dakota making sweep needle gauges now for our 123's, but not all that good as a concept for those of us that have functioning center gauges and a center floor console clock as well already.

It appears that Dakota doesn't cater right now for those who have the above gauges and clock installed and working. I remember they offered a center gauge option with their original digital read out models that have been available for some time. I would be very, very happy to see them as an alternative, offer a model, all in needle sweep style, that simply has the tach on the left, gas in the center, speedo on the right, and three separate center gauges to finish off. They could also offer an upgrade replacement for the floor console clock, or just leave the old design in. (better to offer an upgrade) We will have to wait and see i guess. I may give them a call sometime and a have a friendly word in someone's ear.

Greg.:)
I reached out to them about this a few months ago. They have no intentions of doing the center gauges or the clock.

 
image.jpgGot my upper control arms with the Shelby drop built in. A car that handled well will handle far better with this simple geometry adjustment and adding in a one inch drop. That combined with a couple of inches in the coil gets me up to 3" of drop without binding up the ball joint. Got them on ebay for 550 Canadian for the pair shipped to Buffalo free where I eventually pick them up. I will make one trip after I've ordered the coils , 3" drop rear leafs, sway bars and frame connectors.
 
This geometry improvement was added to our cars in their initial design and production. I'm not sure whether you will see the expected improvement or run into other issues with soing the drop on a 71-73 mustang. I'll be curious to hear how they work out.

 
This geometry improvement was added to our cars in their initial design and production. I'm not sure whether you will see the expected improvement or run into other issues with soing the drop on a 71-73 mustang. I'll be curious to hear how they work out.
I went this route because I'm after a certain lowered stance but would face issues with the stock control arm ball joint binding. I do know that the shock tower in the 71-73 was modified to accept the 429 but not aware that it had any other geometry changes made to it since the same control arm was used from 67-73. If the factory relocated the holes to accommodate a Shelby like drop it would have created the same issues in the ball joint unless they installed shims. This new design I purchased has a more flattened angle to the ball joint and has additional adjustment in the ball joint itself. If I am mistaken I would be very interested in researching what you said further. Can you tell me where you found the info?

 
There are a number of places I have seen it discussed, but I will admit to no actual experience with this modification. Totalled on this board is more familiar than I am- It might be advantageous, it might require some wedged shims, it might make you car drive like its on rails or you may have problems-I won't say I know the answer-but I will say research of the subject may be beneficial before installation.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43447

http://mustangforums.com/forum/classic-mustangs-tech/632224-anyone-done-shelby-drop-on-1971-a-2.html

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Forum27/HTML/001179.html

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-lowering-upper-control-arms-shelby-mod

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/doing-shelby-drop.716948/page-2

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=10170

 
Jeff thanks for the links. I notice there are plenty of questions surrounding the whole idea. I'm already familiar with the Shelby drop since it's been in my 68 along with the CPP suspension set up with killer results for years now but wasn't going to go down the same path on the 71 since I wasn't convinced the shape of the shock tower would permit so I opted to go with the modified pivot shaft on this control arm by STC and leave the tower alone.

 
image.jpgFinally done with the heavy work load and off for the holidays. Started to play with the project again. First thing I did was clear away the sheetmetal around the wheel well in the rear quarter so I could start fitment of these widened quarters. I had the rear quarter and end cap moulds bolted together and reinstalled the pieces that were made and bonded them together. Fit great.
 
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image.jpgSpent the day figuring out the mounting points of the rear bumper / valance. All the finished edges are going to need refinement but I'm very happy with the way it's coming together.


image.jpgTrunk lid may appear a little short because I have black duct tape holding it shut. Going to instal a remote latch to do away with the key hole. Cleaner look.


image.jpgAt this point the most difficult thing to consider is the order of operations for installing the quarters perminently. Bonding them on is not the real work. I find planning and executing all the perpetration before hand to be a challenge because once it's on it's ON. For example: the inner wheel well tub extension looking neat and precise has to happen first and installed last because of the brake cooling duct vent. What material do I make it from glass or metal? Not so much difficult but more time consuming. Not that I'm complaining. Lol.

 
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Thanks. I'm really looking forward to dropping in the new motor, tranny and front suspension so I can see the true stance of the car. The goal is to get the roof line totally flat if not even a slight forward rake. I also would like to see if I can get the total hight down to just 48" to the top of the windshield. Low and Wide - like me lol.

 
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What engine and tranny are you going with? I can imagine that you are very excited to get every thing installed to see how it will look when it's all complete.. I can't wait for that day my self!

Haha funny! :D That is really low, how much do you have to the top of the windshield now? What kind of suspension are you going to use to get that car that low? :)

 
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