Yup. They have this one in blue....
....and this one here. They are showing about $750
http://www.phoenix-tuning.com/servlet/the-619/DAKOTA-DIGITAL-71-72/DetailThey are also making them with black and silver alloy background, that does look really nice too.. Where did you find them for 750?
I definitely agree with the fact that a simple retrofit won't work because of the redundant gauges in the center of the Dakota cluster and 3 in the center dash. However I already had intensions of having the three small gauges above the stereo becoming two toggles and one push button start. Always loved the idea of having a procedure to go through before the engine could be fired-with the push of a button to boot. Lol.I reached out to them about this a few months ago. They have no intentions of doing the center gauges or the clock.They are a nice set, and good to see Dakota making sweep needle gauges now for our 123's, but not all that good as a concept for those of us that have functioning center gauges and a center floor console clock as well already.
It appears that Dakota doesn't cater right now for those who have the above gauges and clock installed and working. I remember they offered a center gauge option with their original digital read out models that have been available for some time. I would be very, very happy to see them as an alternative, offer a model, all in needle sweep style, that simply has the tach on the left, gas in the center, speedo on the right, and three separate center gauges to finish off. They could also offer an upgrade replacement for the floor console clock, or just leave the old design in. (better to offer an upgrade) We will have to wait and see i guess. I may give them a call sometime and a have a friendly word in someone's ear.
Greg.
Got my upper control arms with the Shelby drop built in. A car that handled well will handle far better with this simple geometry adjustment and adding in a one inch drop. That combined with a couple of inches in the coil gets me up to 3" of drop without binding up the ball joint. Got them on ebay for 550 Canadian for the pair shipped to Buffalo free where I eventually pick them up. I will make one trip after I've ordered the coils , 3" drop rear leafs, sway bars and frame connectors.I went this route because I'm after a certain lowered stance but would face issues with the stock control arm ball joint binding. I do know that the shock tower in the 71-73 was modified to accept the 429 but not aware that it had any other geometry changes made to it since the same control arm was used from 67-73. If the factory relocated the holes to accommodate a Shelby like drop it would have created the same issues in the ball joint unless they installed shims. This new design I purchased has a more flattened angle to the ball joint and has additional adjustment in the ball joint itself. If I am mistaken I would be very interested in researching what you said further. Can you tell me where you found the info?
Finally done with the heavy work load and off for the holidays. Started to play with the project again. First thing I did was clear away the sheetmetal around the wheel well in the rear quarter so I could start fitment of these widened quarters. I had the rear quarter and end cap moulds bolted together and reinstalled the pieces that were made and bonded them together. Fit great.
Spent the day figuring out the mounting points of the rear bumper / valance. All the finished edges are going to need refinement but I'm very happy with the way it's coming together.
Trunk lid may appear a little short because I have black duct tape holding it shut. Going to instal a remote latch to do away with the key hole. Cleaner look.
At this point the most difficult thing to consider is the order of operations for installing the quarters perminently. Bonding them on is not the real work. I find planning and executing all the perpetration before hand to be a challenge because once it's on it's ON. For example: the inner wheel well tub extension looking neat and precise has to happen first and installed last because of the brake cooling duct vent. What material do I make it from glass or metal? Not so much difficult but more time consuming. Not that I'm complaining. Lol.
That is really low, how much do you have to the top of the windshield now? What kind of suspension are you going to use to get that car that low? 
